Removing glass from air cooled hood.

Situation420

Well-Known Member
So you're saying a cooltube creates enough of a reduction to actually prevent your bulb from reaching a proper operating temperature? Do you have some sort of documentation of this? The way I see it, you can point a box fan at a 1000w space heater all you want, it's not going to cool those coils off enough to change operation. Unless you're running some insanely huge duct/fan combo; it doesn't seem reasonable to expect it to effect operation of your lights in that manner. I'd be willing to bet that the bulb would still burn your hands inside a cooltube.
It would burn you hands, yes a box fan would cool off a 1000w space heaters coils by about 20%. You cannot tell yourself because the temperature differences is like 400 degrees out of 2000 degrees but that is still a 20% reduction in heat loss. Plus a fan makes a room hotter anyway so over time in a sealed room it would get to a point that what your saying is true but not initially.
 

Situation420

Well-Known Member
This guy just gave you some real life, practical application knowledge, and you just shot him down based on forum rhetoric you've crossed. You need to listen to this man.
Yea i shot him, what he was claiming was missing so many key points and actually supported what I was saying while claiming it was a crock of shit and he knew it was b.s. Yea u get shot when you provide misleading "facts" on a discussion board.
 

kpmarine

Well-Known Member
It would burn you hands, yes a box fan would cool off a 1000w space heaters coils by about 20%. You cannot tell yourself because the temperature differences is like 400 degrees out of 2000 degrees but that is still a 20% reduction in heat loss. Plus a fan makes a room hotter anyway so over time in a sealed room it would get to a point that what your saying is true but not initially.
So do you have anything that actually links a cooltube to reduced efficiency due to lowered temps within the bulb? I'm sure there will be some reduction in heat, but can you prove it to be detrimental under the circumstances in this thread? Logically, these things could be true with a big enough fan and a small enough bulb. But can it be proven within a grow enviroment with a conventional cooltube setup.
 

Situation420

Well-Known Member
So do you have anything that actually links a cooltube to reduced efficiency due to lowered temps within the bulb? I'm sure there will be some reduction in heat, but can you prove it to be detrimental under the circumstances in this thread? Logically, these things could be true with a big enough fan and a small enough bulb. But can it be proven within a grow enviroment with a conventional cooltube setup.
The best thing I can do to prove it is say how I've grown under two 1100 watt output setting HPS lamps with glass and air cooled and two 750 watt output setting using the same lamps with no glass. My largest harvest on record came from the two 750 watt lamps.
 

RodriguesIV

Active Member
I've tried both and now I run open hoods and cool the room as a whole with powerful air conditioning. Just one more data point I guess... I've grown the same clones as friends and the open bulbs always yield a very considerable amount more.
 

kpmarine

Well-Known Member
The best thing I can do to prove it is say how I've grown under two 1100 watt output setting HPS lamps with glass and air cooled and two 750 watt output setting using the same lamps with no glass. My largest harvest on record came from the two 750 watt lamps.
So we've got something anecdotal. Not trying to insult you, but that's not really good enough to prove anything.
 

kpmarine

Well-Known Member
I've tried both and now I run open hoods and cool the room as a whole with powerful air conditioning. Just one more data point I guess... I've grown the same clones as friends and the open bulbs always yield a very considerable amount more.
There's no explaining your processes. It gets interest, but doesn't tell much.
 

Situation420

Well-Known Member
It's the best way to use your lights.
Lemme blow your mind real quick, no homo. If you are running a 450 cfm your using 110 watts of power for 12 hours and another 450 cfm fan for air exchange all day, A Dehumidifyer all day that uses 780 watts, Its actually cheaper to us a 1000 watt air conditioning unit to keep your room cool. By not running air exchange or exhaust fans you can also optimize CO2 use and don't have to worry as much about smell leakage. The AC is also a way more efficient dehumidifier and has a built in thermostat and will keep the humidity perfect for flowering if the correct size one is purchased. So why wouldn't you take your glass off if your not dealing with celling height restrictions and just use an ac? It saves you money anyway
 

patlpp

New Member
I go for safety. I have heard story after story about either a crazy pet or stoner or faulty hangers causing lights to come crashing down resulting in fires. At least with it enclosed, there is less a chance of a fire. I even heard of a stoner foliar feeding and the spray coming in contact with the VERY hot tube and boom!! Verified or not it seems prudent to enclose the tube. IMHO.
 

Situation420

Well-Known Member
I go for safety. I have heard story after story about either a crazy pet or stoner or faulty hangers causing lights to come crashing down resulting in fires. At least with it enclosed, there is less a chance of a fire. I even heard of a stoner foliar feeding and the spray coming in contact with the VERY hot tube and boom!! Verified or not it seems prudent to enclose the tube. IMHO.
Good points and definitely should be taken into consideration. Foliar feeding should be done outside the room and isnt necessary if your plants are not having issue.
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
Lemme blow your mind real quick, no homo. If you are running a 450 cfm your using 110 watts of power for 12 hours and another 450 cfm fan for air exchange all day, A Dehumidifyer all day that uses 780 watts, Its actually cheaper to us a 1000 watt air conditioning unit to keep your room cool. By not running air exchange or exhaust fans you can also optimize CO2 use and don't have to worry as much about smell leakage. The AC is also a way more efficient dehumidifier and has a built in thermostat and will keep the humidity perfect for flowering if the correct size one is purchased. So why wouldn't you take your glass off if your not dealing with celling height restrictions and just use an ac? It saves you money anyway
I'm going to add up all my venting equipment loads and see if that works out. Getting rid of the ducting would be convenient.
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
I go for safety. I have heard story after story about either a crazy pet or stoner or faulty hangers causing lights to come crashing down resulting in fires. At least with it enclosed, there is less a chance of a fire. I even heard of a stoner foliar feeding and the spray coming in contact with the VERY hot tube and boom!! Verified or not it seems prudent to enclose the tube. IMHO.
Most of the bulbs have warnings to only used them in enclosed fixtures. I've never had a bulb burst, but it only takes one to burn down the house.
 

Situation420

Well-Known Member
Most of the bulbs have warnings to only used them in enclosed fixtures. I've never had a bulb burst, but it only takes one to burn down the house.
CFL's are more likely to burn your house down than an hps in the correct hood. HPS has been around for so long, cfl's are still modern when it comes to heat displacement for the ballast. Check out this http://urbanlegends.about.com/od/business/ss/Cfl-Light-Bulbs-Fire-Hazard.htm

Basically having cfl's pointed down is a fire hazard. Most people don't know this and I've even had it happen to me by replacing a ceiling bulb with a 100 watt cfl. It burnt out and I smelled smoke in my basement. When i went to look what i smelled i found the bulb blackened and burned. They're only meant to be used on their sides or pointed upwards.

It's mostly the chinese ones
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
CFL's are more likely to burn your house down than an hps in the correct hood. HPS has been around for so long, cfl's are still modern when it comes to heat displacement for the ballast. Check out this http://urbanlegends.about.com/od/business/ss/Cfl-Light-Bulbs-Fire-Hazard.htm Basically having cfl's pointed down is a fire hazard. Most people don't know this and I've even had it happen to me by replacing a ceiling bulb with a 100 watt cfl. It burnt out and I smelled smoke in my basement. When i went to look what i smelled i found the bulb blackened and burned. They're only meant to be used on their sides or pointed upwards. It's mostly the chinese ones
If that's the case, there should be a warning label about placement. CFL's seem to dim noticeably after a short period. The mercury in them was banned in other products, or required to have prominent warnings on them. They seem to have relaxed the health and safety rules when it comes to CFLs.
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
CFL's are more likely to burn your house down than an hps in the correct hood. HPS has been around for so long, cfl's are still modern when it comes to heat displacement for the ballast. Check out this http://urbanlegends.about.com/od/business/ss/Cfl-Light-Bulbs-Fire-Hazard.htm Basically having cfl's pointed down is a fire hazard. Most people don't know this and I've even had it happen to me by replacing a ceiling bulb with a 100 watt cfl. It burnt out and I smelled smoke in my basement. When i went to look what i smelled i found the bulb blackened and burned. They're only meant to be used on their sides or pointed upwards. It's mostly the chinese ones
Everybody keeps dissing the Chinese. What's up with that?
 
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