I've attached a few pictures of some dying leaves I clipped off for the pictures. From my research I thought it was low Mg, but I have foliar fed twice (about 600ml to 1/2 teaspoon epsom salts), soil fed epsom salts (about 1.5 liters to 2-3 teaspoons atleast 3-4 times) over the last two 1/2 weeks. I also changed the soil recently to top soil which contains limestone (for pH adjustment + magnesium). The problem stems from the bottom of the plant and is slowly working its way upwards as it is killing off my leaves. Yellowish-white dead spots are scattered around the leaves, with small black spots appearing randomly around the leaves too. This eventually grows until it consumes much of the leaf, and the leaf eventually dries up and falls off. The veins do not seem to be effected at first, but in the later stages are minorly affected. I really need some expert help on this, and it would be greatly appreciated.
HELP! Plants are slowly dying!
- Thread starter mbkboy
- Start date
Yota
Well-Known Member
ya, cut back on the salt and pepper and im sure you'd be fine....
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
You got a mold problem it looks pretty bad make sure humidity is not to high it may be to late now. If it is only on few plants remove and destroy them. Then remove any infected leaves on remaining plants. Clean out your grow area really well with bleach and water. Make sure that your soil dries between watering. Use neem oil to prevent any further spread of mold and to kill any spore that may still be on the leaves. You can also buy bacterial base fungacide sprays at garden stores.
I'm not sure what you two meant by salt and pepper?
I don't believe I have a mold problem; I've dealt with growing mush and have had a mold problem before and this seems nothing like mold. My humidity flucuates between 45-65%, and usually mold prefers a higher humidity. I have also vaccuumed twice (once before the grow and use during), and also sterilized before the grow. There is nothing on the outside of the leaf, the yellowish-whiteish spots and black spots are all within the leaf. I use a water gague (for lack of a better term) which I stick into the soil everytime before I water to ensure I don't overwater.
Since my epsom salt idea wasn't working, I switched from my potting mix to top soil a couple days ago.
Anyone else have any words of advice?
I don't believe I have a mold problem; I've dealt with growing mush and have had a mold problem before and this seems nothing like mold. My humidity flucuates between 45-65%, and usually mold prefers a higher humidity. I have also vaccuumed twice (once before the grow and use during), and also sterilized before the grow. There is nothing on the outside of the leaf, the yellowish-whiteish spots and black spots are all within the leaf. I use a water gague (for lack of a better term) which I stick into the soil everytime before I water to ensure I don't overwater.
Since my epsom salt idea wasn't working, I switched from my potting mix to top soil a couple days ago.
Anyone else have any words of advice?
PERSISTILLSUCCESS
Active Member
that sucks dude could it be eggs and crap from some little bastard bugs?? check under leaves with magnifying glass or somethin idk good luck tho
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
Rust is a fungus disease; typical symptoms are small orange blisters on the underside of leaves. Low levels of rust will not cause significant damage.4 Like black spot it survives the winter in infected leaves or stems in and around the rose bush. In the spring, rust spores are blown to new leaves or plants. Spring and early summer conditions are favorable to rust.Hygiene is the best way to prevent rust - ensure all fallen leaves are removed from the top of the soil before they begin to decompose. Prune the plants to ensure a free circulation of air, especially at the centre. Remove and burn all infected leaves from the plant.
As soon as rust is noticed, remove all affected leaves and burn them. Try to isolate infected plants from healthy ones. The infection spreads through the air via spores. The conditions needed for rust are wet leaves at the right tempearature. Some forms of rust form black blisters.
The plants should be sprayed with a fungicide such as thiram, maneb or zineb at ten day intervals. If you don't start treating this as I fungus like I said your plants are going to die or have very poor yields and crappy smoke your plants have rust treat like I said. Bugs also often carry these molds.
As soon as rust is noticed, remove all affected leaves and burn them. Try to isolate infected plants from healthy ones. The infection spreads through the air via spores. The conditions needed for rust are wet leaves at the right tempearature. Some forms of rust form black blisters.
The plants should be sprayed with a fungicide such as thiram, maneb or zineb at ten day intervals. If you don't start treating this as I fungus like I said your plants are going to die or have very poor yields and crappy smoke your plants have rust treat like I said. Bugs also often carry these molds.
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MDgrow
Well-Known Member
Spider Mites?
insecticidal soaps kill mites and other plant pests by compromising their cellular integrity, causing cells to rupture and die. In other words, insecticidal soaps dissolve the spider mite from the inside out, slowly turning them into mush. The usual recipe is about 2-3 drops of castile soap for every quart of water. There are premixed commercial applications available online if you don’t feel you have the experience necessary to mix your own insecticidal soaps.
insecticidal soaps kill mites and other plant pests by compromising their cellular integrity, causing cells to rupture and die. In other words, insecticidal soaps dissolve the spider mite from the inside out, slowly turning them into mush. The usual recipe is about 2-3 drops of castile soap for every quart of water. There are premixed commercial applications available online if you don’t feel you have the experience necessary to mix your own insecticidal soaps.
Oh ya. Don't know how I managed to forget to add this in, guess my short term memory is lacking these days from my skunky little friend. When I transplanted the plants to new soil, I moved a number of them outdoors and they quickly recovered/the problem stopped. They also seemed to grow much more quickly (my indoor ones grow has slowed quite alot). That's another reason I was thinking it had to do with the soil/lack of a mineral or nutrient. But it could also speak to something in my plant area?
Also, I was wondering if anyone know some info on my previous question:
"My only worry about using a fungicide is any of it being held in the plant and the potential for smoking it later on. Would you know if there has been any research done on that topic, or if there is the potential for this?"
"My only worry about using a fungicide is any of it being held in the plant and the potential for smoking it later on. Would you know if there has been any research done on that topic, or if there is the potential for this?"
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
You can use a natural fungacide/pesticide like neem oil. Or if your plants are in veg spray them with chemicals then when the symptoms stop showing up spray them with water to wash the chemicals.