SUPERthrive or Superjive?
- Thread starter Uncle Ben
- Start date
Anyone use it every watering or even nce a week through out the grow ? States you can use it a lot. They sell the gallon at my local hydro shop too. Thinking about adding it to the mix. 
bamfrivet
Well-Known Member
I went over to my wifes uncles house who has been growing for 20 something years now. We were talking about nutes since this is my first grow, I wanted to poke as munch info from him as I could. He pulled out a thing of super thrive and a gallon of b-1 and told me to smell them. They smell almost identical. Just add some b-1 to some willow water and you have the same thing as super thrive for much less.
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
So now we gauge the contents of nutes by smell? I need to find something that smells like roots excellerator
bamfrivet
Well-Known Member
take it for what you want, but his buds are amazing and I trust his advice. just passing on what I've learned. you want to be a jerk about it that's fine, don't take my advice and go waste your money on b-1 in a fancy bottle.
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
Jesus dude, got thin skin?> Passing along what you learned? That B1 smells like superthrive? Or that your buddy uses "b-1". Superthrive is essentially B1 yes, but that's not the only thing in there. What KIND of B1 is your buddy using? Oh, yeah, the gallon of B-1... thanks for all the specifics.
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
At least you didn't add to the senseless banter. LMAO
Guile
Active Member
Recently I had done a bit of reading about hormones for a series of experiments I'm conducting myself.. What I gather from the reading I've done leads me to believe that "B vitamins" can be beneficial to yield/overall biomass in very low quantity's (like 5ppm). By beneficial I simply mean to offer any/some improvement. With what I'm doing, every little bit helps..
I'm under the impression that Superthrive is the most concentrated B vitiation around, Though not sure of its concentration I have read more than once that it only takes 1 drop per gallon, and I'm inclined to believe it (may even take less) and there are over 20,000 drops in a quart!! Seems to me once you break it down its pretty cheap stuff even if only the slightest benefits are to be had.
I'm under the impression that Superthrive is the most concentrated B vitiation around, Though not sure of its concentration I have read more than once that it only takes 1 drop per gallon, and I'm inclined to believe it (may even take less) and there are over 20,000 drops in a quart!! Seems to me once you break it down its pretty cheap stuff even if only the slightest benefits are to be had.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
I would only use Superthrive when transplanting at a rate of no more than 10 drops/gallon. Hormones scare me as they mess with the plant's internal hormonal processes. Some pretty weird things can happen.
papajohn
Well-Known Member
hey uncle ben i know its a old thread but i have some questions based on your 'rocket fuel recipee' for transplanting.its my first grow and am growing in outdoor soil.
1.does superthrive & mycoapply drench once to the soil after transplanting?
2.is it necessary after to use mycoapply throughout the grow?
3.what do you mean when you say you 'rake in about a tbsp of a 10 mo slow release fertilizer into the top soil
4.can i use jack classic 10-30-20 with your recipee,whats a good slow release fertilizer??
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
I learn over time and change my drills. Found out from horticultural experts that Superthrive's only benefit is from the synthetic auxin. Pros at workshops I've attended say it has no merit. Here's a read on it -
http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda Chalker-Scott/Horticultural Myths_files/Myths/Vitamin B1.pdf
Myco fungi has no merit for plants grown in pots. It can be beneficial in native soils that have been disturbed due to tilling, etc. You only need to drench your backfill once or just drench the soil in the pot before popping it out.
Against popular forum thought and misguided paradigms, I am using a high N food from start to finish with excellent results. That drill has been confirmed by Homebrewer who did a detailed study with clones. The plants that got a 9-3-6 from start to finish were in the best of shape and yielded 10% more than those receiving a balanced food. Watch that 10-30-20. Great food, but if you see some yellowing or premature leaf drop, go to a balanced food with more N. There are more gardens and yields lost in cannabis forums due to the use of bloom foods. See my Tweaks thread. Cannabis is a tropical foliage plant that likes quite a bit of N. Treat it a such. It is not a mango which requires a lot of K.
The way I grow outdoors saves me a lot of time and produces great results. I upcan to a final 3 or 5 gallon pot that has 5 large drainholes, black commercial type. Once established in that pot I dig a 3" deep hole in the ground, drop the pot in with the drainholes unplugged, pack the soil around the bottom of the pot and go about my biz. The roots will benefit from the kickstart of the potting soil, then grow out into native soil and reap the benefits of the water and plant food that runs through the pot as you water.
I use a 12 month slow release 18-4-9 encapsulated food, about 1 - 2 tsp. and lightly work it into the top 1/2" of potting soil. No need for anymore food....easy peasy. Slow release foods can be found under many names, I use Polyon. Others are Dynamite, Osmocote, Nutricote.
UB
Biscuit Pleasure
Member
Thanks Uncle Ben, I have seen many great posts by you and they are appreciated
Darth Budder
Well-Known Member
Okay Uncle, I say uncle.
I am switching from soil to hydro, but you are so damned adament about this instead of getting the BPN i was going to get, 30 bucks plus shipping for 3 1 quart bottles, im going with 1lb each of Jacks 2 part hydro mix. Total is 10 bucks, plus 10 bucks shipping. Rougtly half the overall cost.
My question is this: The dry mix calls for 1/2tsp of each product per gallon of water. How many applications am i going to get out of this firt like a billion?
DB
I am switching from soil to hydro, but you are so damned adament about this instead of getting the BPN i was going to get, 30 bucks plus shipping for 3 1 quart bottles, im going with 1lb each of Jacks 2 part hydro mix. Total is 10 bucks, plus 10 bucks shipping. Rougtly half the overall cost.
My question is this: The dry mix calls for 1/2tsp of each product per gallon of water. How many applications am i going to get out of this firt like a billion?
DB
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Beats the hell outta me. I'd say you've got enough for years.....
papajohn
Well-Known Member
appreciate the comments here is my shedule line up for my outdoor project i need some suggestions as well as your inputs(am in good native soil with worms)
soil mix:chicken manure,dolimite lime,native soil,azomite,epson salts
12x12"auger holes backfill with soil mix
i need a good formula after transplanting for roots
was thinking jacks classic 20-20-20 with micro for veg,my local depot also carries 30-10-10 fertilzer nt sure if it has micro in it.
for flowering:2-11-11 awesome blossoms & bud candy 1-5-4 overdrive at the end.
Darth Budder
Well-Known Member
I just have no way to judge is all, ive not used a dry fert other then Scotts 4 step lol. With 1 quart of liquid at an average of 2tsp an application gets you about 96 applications on average. If i feed with every water and water 2 to 3 times a week we are looking at 32 weeks of application. 2 and a half grows or so? I know you grow much bigger plants, outdoors, but you have experience with these jrpeters dry ferts so i thought you might have an idea as to how many applications/lb of product.
DB
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Depends on what the nutritional value of your native soil is. Most soils are low in N. Jack's 20-20-20 would be fine from start to finish. It has PLENTY of P and K to support good flowering.