2-4-6-8-10....
Thanks for pointing out that post and link in it. That near constant temp is during the first 7-10 days in a small preveg box, something I've done 5 runs and if I have compromised plant health, vigor, and production by doing so, it's in practice a negligible or at least unnoticable amount (the only thing that limits my production is the 3x4 feet space I have to flower). Like you said, you have to make a choice, sometimes that choice is between lesser evils. I have limited height available so do have to worry about stretch. That's why this time I also work with a lower DIF in my flower setup during transition (to go low-low, the stretched run has been a good learning experience).What you may not understand is by maintaining a negative DIF you done compromised plant health, vigor, and production. You have to make a choice. We've had this discussion about DIF before. Freaked one guy out haha. Just call me one blasphemy mofo.Post #1584....read it and weep.
85F = 29CUncle Ben said:
Well, please keep it up man, I got distracted for a while here at RIU by going to TnT and such forums, while I can gain knowledge and still be entertained in AMCJust call me one blasphemy mofo.
I select and work with subject matter experts and authoritative sources for a living. Finding the reasons why they 'can' disagree is what gives me an edge. Thanks to you and some others who aren't just parroting received wisdom I can apply the same thing to my hobby.
Probably got more posts per page right? Funny coincidence... You are right about those north western breeders though, Oregon specifically, Old Ed, no need to be mean about it. It's not like we all forgot I got a dutch grow guide from 1987 that partly comes from the same group. Oldskool outdoor growing. As old as it is, I still occasionally use it to debunk forum-'wisdom'. Oh and you're right about those dutch seeds shops too, I refer to them as tourist/souvenir seeds... some people don't seem to like that much honesty.
Come on. Go back one page, and find my post on this issue.
Not at all as long as the 64.8F was when lights were out and at the low of the night. I live in an area where that kind of DIF is the norm most of the spring - fall months. Anything from a 10 to 25F drop in night temp is alright with me.
Lol, I think Nizza was getting a second opinion on my post, on another thread, regarding high P and plant stretch; I think he misunderstood slightly.
I mean, it makes for better looking "denser" colas when the nodes are closer. I think that is the only benefit one will see from tighter node spacing. I've had good luck with long plants as well; longer node spacing.
Yeah... I don't think we should argue on how to convert C to F, I ask my computer and she's never wrong. Scroll up and see your quote from your Pointers thread, you said 85/70F, not 85/60. Hence the Celsius max and min values you advice there are both wrong and not what you intended. I should have mentioned those SMEs usually don't like it when I edit their errors out either.
Everybody makes mistakes sometimes 
Reminds of starting with post #172 - https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/676034-dont-switch-straight-12-12-a-9.html
We're splitting hairs here. I took the black and white out of the discussion with a previous post when I said - "Anything from a 10 to 25F drop in night temp is alright with me."Note the subtle "aim for". It's not a horrible range but indoors there's no need to simulate the downsides of outdoors just for the sake of.
Yeah... I don't think we should argue on how to convert C to F, I ask my computer and she's never wrong. Scroll up and see your quote from your Pointers thread, you said 85/70F, not 85/60. Hence the Celsius max and min values you advice there are both wrong and not what you intended. I should have mentioned those SMEs usually don't like it when I edit their errors out either.
The lower the night temp compared to the day means less food reserves lost to respiration processes at night. There's an economy of scale issue here and a bit of botanical reasoning coming into play - you don't want that night time drop to be so radical that tissue production that normally occurs during night is now negatively affected, reduced.
And that raises a question for me. What is the best way to trim and manicure a pure sativa? The only illustrations and descriptions I see are for Indicas and Indica dom hybrids. I harvested my plants recently and they had some very solid bud formation, but there have been a few in the past that were light and airy over the whole plant. I made hash out of it, but would rather trim it. I just don't think it will make peoples mouths water like the Indicas do; I mean, send a kid in a candy shop and is he gonna pick two handfuls of delicious party sized milky ways or a gigantic plain Hershey bar?
Nice eye candy, we likes it!
ok i need to know where you buy your padded wires for LST. I have been using regular insulated wire for mine which works great but i would like to use those foam padded wires. where can i get them? thanksAlthough I started out with compact plants (because of preveg CFLs just an inch above plants and 24 hrs light) I had some major stretch last round (under hps), so I've been reading up on ways to keep'm low and well, legallyflying summed it up already, besides keeping the lights close (which includes proper reflector and reflection on walls if any) the key really is the DIF. Makes all the difference.
Here's another source from a test setup: http://www.hightimes.com/read/optimize-your-growing-environment
I don't use a heater (or A/C), I just switch day and night. I'm on 72-82 instead of 65-82.
View attachment 2741529View attachment 2741530 View attachment 2741531 (LST-ed, not entirely fair, just showing off).
Greets to the cat long time no see?Note the subtle "aim for". It's not a horrible range but indoors there's no need to simulate the downsides of outdoors just for the sake of.
Yeah... I don't think we should argue on how to convert C to F, I ask my computer and she's never wrong. Scroll up and see your quote from your Pointers thread, you said 85/70F, not 85/60. Hence the Celsius max and min values you advice there are both wrong and not what you intended. I should have mentioned those SMEs usually don't like it when I edit their errors out either.
I can categorically say that 24/7 produce's shorter plants with tighter nodes, years using this method, it makes the plant more manageable( I do FIM), thicker branches, able to veg for longer which in return gives bigger yields. Having the plant close to the light does prevent stretch however If I grow sativa's it doesn't matter how close I get to the light they still stretch and stretch.
any plant that is not adapted to 24hrs for two weeks will do different producing sites. if you change to less 14 most will sex so use that for a fast veg start if 12/12 until finished did this first time with ohio meigs co gold sativas will need longer flower time if only 2 weeks veg they stretch way more now autos best 20-4 then 18-6 no less tried all different growing with 24 seed to bud and so on ogjc
T-diff is the biggest thing here for sure. It can also be manipulated to control how fast the plants grow and how big they'll end up.
