Open Show & Tell , Outdoors 2013
- Thread starter TWS
- Start date
Sunbiz1
Well-Known Member
Took a few pics today, thought of you when I pulled out the drizella(pics 1, and 2). Had a hell of a time with that plant, damn spider mites got the best of it up until flowering...you can even see the old damage in pic 2. But as you can see, she cranks out some nice colas and copious amounts of resin. Pic 3 is that caramel candy kush from Dynasty, as are the final 3 pics also taken today...and the dog I met on the way home.Bodhi genetics = Sunshine Daydream f2 , Tranquil Elephantizer , Gogi Og . Dynasty genetics = Craterlake v4 , Drizilla , Huckleberry Kush . Sannies = Herijuana . I have some other Bodhi mixes made from a friend seedlings but don't remember the exact crosses laying here. One is Motrebels Sweettooth x Sunshine daydream. And then of course some of my favorite clones. I will be popping a few pure Sativas in May to go out in June to try to keep them under control on a late start. Trainwrek x space queen or Purple diesel x Malawi gold.
Peace!
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Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Oh dude, it's cold as balls up here come October. 2 seasons back we had our first frost on October 1st! That was sort of freak weather, so I'll be needing a greenhouse by then for the late bloomers, but we should be dropping down in the 50's come late September at night and probably 70f tops in the day. Some of my best color changing plants I brought indoors though, they were a little smaller and I had to fill a room with 2000w over it, so everything that was just the right size went in. I've been blasting the A/C in there so I should get a little color. The Ice, Tranquil Elephantizer, and Jack The Ripper are supposed to do a real cool blue and purple show, I've seen TWS get that Ice cut straight black before.
I love the Pink Lemonade, she is my jewel. I wish I had her around long enough to get her bigger, but she was a late season addition. Didn't mean to let her start flowering, I was going to bring her indoors under 16 hour lights, but luckily I have some cuts of it in the tent.
I'm so pissed at myself, I needed trim bad and I traded 8 pink lemonade cuts and some cash for 3 1/2 lbs of trim that turned out to make the runniest product ever. That dude ripped me off and got 8 cuts, the first one of which was easily worth 500 bucks for rights. Dump, stupid, dumb!
Hell yeah dude, I'd keep it around. I was thinking about it today when I was playing leap frog to move my 30 gal plants after watering them.
Agent Orange is so nice, I love her! If I could give you advice next year if you want to keep size down, I'd just root bind the piss out of them before you transplant. You saw the hugely oversized plants I had/have in the pots. I'd like to get them your size, but I can't do that with my neighbors, so this kept me from getting them to bag. Because I couldn't wait to get them outside, I took those BD cuts like Feb 23. I'm going to have to reveg one for you though, my whole Blue Dream/Girl Scout Cookie dome rotted so bad. Luckily I have a back up GSC.
The JTR is great, making cool coke bottle tops on it right now in the indoor grow room. Frostiest bitch around! I think my buddy took an extra cut of it for me before he flowered his, because I really want to keep this bitch around! It is like the pheno everyone is looking for in JTR. I got Phat N Fruity inside right now too, she is packing on crazy weight!!
MrStickyScissors
Well-Known Member
girl scout cookies seeds? lol thats burners strand no seeds
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Some dude on Craigslist. He wanted to trade some strains, but I didn't have any clones ready so I just bought them at 25 a piece for 2. I hope they are a real GSC cut, they aren't Thin Mint like I thought because Thin Mint seems to have much more of a OG structure. This is more of a Sativa structure, lanky like an OG with leaves like Blue Dream. I can't really find any good pics of Platinum Cookies or the Forum Cut so it's hard to be sure what it is. I hope it's some kind of GSC, lol.
I'm not super stoked on recent gear from Cali Connect, but it's about time to give Swerve another shot. I liked a lot of his old gear.
Hell no, I stay away from bag seed. GSC is well known for her bananas. Who is Burner? I want to talk to that guy for sure.
jbrown3
Active Member
im growin a couple bag seeds! lol i got the caterpillars under control, went hunting for them couldnt find any, im definetly spraying again in a few days. But does anyone know if BT kills praying mantises cause i sprayed it last night and made sure i didnt hit her with it but today i went out there and she was gone 
hahaha
hahaha
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Yeah dude, I'll at least reveg one for you. I want to keep this bitch! Phat N Fruity looks like she wants to be a 7 weeker! lol.
Hey, how does this sound as a top dressing? 5 gallons of Sunshine Mix Advanced #4, 1/2 gal Alaskan Forest Humus, 1/2 cup Earthworm Castings, and 1/4 cup (4 Tbs) Peruvian Seabird Guano. Do you think this is to strong or to weak? Should I add more of something? I have a lot of great additives, but I know it's either the blood meal or bone meal that rotted in a top dressing last time, and it probably wouldn't this time with the Sunshine Mix, but I'm hesitant.
Hell yeah man, get rid of those worms. I don't think BT effects a Mantis, but I know that Spinosad is safe. BT shouldn't effect them though, it specifically targets caterpillars and other leaf munching worm things.im growin a couple bag seeds! lol i got the caterpillars under control, went hunting for them couldnt find any, im definetly spraying again in a few days. But does anyone know if BT kills praying mantises cause i sprayed it last night and made sure i didnt hit her with it but today i went out there and she was gone
Be careful with bag seed man! 3 times I thought I was growing out a supreme champion, and only once did I get something truly incredible. Too bad I wasn't breeding back then, it was a auto crossed with Platinum, and because it was an auto I couldn't clone it. But if I could have made seeds and they came out like that, I would have instantly been world famous for the very best auto flower variety ever made... ever.
Anyways, the other 2 times I got my ENTIRE indoor crop seeded to hell and back with green immature seeds. Super pissed. Now I can spot a banana on a plant from across my deck, but that hasn't been a problem this year. Last herm I got was a Pakistani Punch from my own seed stock, but I only got 1 herm out of 300+ seeds I ran out of it, so that's pretty fucking good if you ask me.
I think he would be ok according to this : [h=2]Bacillus thuringiensis[/h]by W.S. Cranshaw[SUP]1[/SUP] (12/0
The insecticidal activity of Bt was first discovered in 1911. However, it was not commercially available until the 1950s. In recent years, there has been tremendous renewed interest in Bt. Several new products have been developed, largely because of the safety associated with Bt-based insecticides.
[h=3]Properties[/h]Unlike typical nerve-poison insecticides, Bt acts by producing proteins (delta-endotoxin, the "toxic crystal") that reacts with the cells of the gut lining of susceptible insects. These Bt proteins paralyze the digestive system, and the infected insect stops feeding within hours. Bt-affected insects generally die from starvation, which can take several days.
Occasionally, the bacteria enter the insect's blood and reproduce within the insect. However, in most insects it is the reaction of the protein crystal that is lethal to the insect. Even dead bacteria containing the proteins are effective insecticides.
The most commonly used strain of Bt (kurstaki strain) will kill only leaf- and needle-feeding caterpillars. In the past decade, Bt strains have been developed that control certain types of fly larvae (israelensis strain, or Bti). These are widely used against larvae of mosquitoes, black flies and fungus gnats.
More recently, strains have been developed with activity against some leaf beetles, such as the Colorado potato beetle and elm leaf beetle (san diego strain, tenebrionis strain). Among the various Bt strains, insecticidal activity is specific. That is, Bt strains developed for mosquito larvae do not affect caterpillars. Development of Bt products is an active area and many manufacturers produce a variety of products. Effectiveness of the various formulations may differ.
[h=3]Disadvantages[/h]Bt is susceptible to degradation by sunlight. Most formulations persist on foliage less than a week following application. Some of the newer strains developed for leaf beetle control become ineffective in about 24 hours.
Manufacturers are experimenting with several techniques to increase its persistence. One involves inserting Bt toxic crystal genes into other species of bacteria that can better survive on leaf surfaces (e.g., the M-Trak formulation of san diego strain).
The highly specific activity of Bt insecticides might limit their use on Crops where problems with several pests occur, including nonsusceptible insects (aphids, grasshoppers, etc.). As strictly a stomach poison insecticide, Bt must be eaten to be effective, and application coverage must be thorough. This further limits its usefulness against pests that are susceptible to Bt but rarely have an opportunity to eat it in field use, such as codling moth or corn earworm that tunnel into plants. Additives (sticking or wetting agents) often are useful in a Bt application to improve performance, allowing it to cover and resist washing.
Since Bt does not kill rapidly, users may incorrectly assume that it is ineffective a day or two after treatment. This, however, is merely a perceptual problem, because Bt-affected insects eat little or nothing before they die.
Bt-based products tend to have a shorter shelf life than other insecticides. Manufacturers generally indicate reduced effectiveness after two to three years of storage. Liquid formulations are more perishable than dry formulations. Shelf life is greatest when storage conditions are cool, dry and out of direct sunlight.
[h=3]Advantages[/h]The specific activity of Bt generally is considered highly beneficial. Unlike most insecticides, Bt insecticides do not have a broad spectrum of activity, so they do not kill beneficial insects. This includes the natural enemies of insects (predators and parasites), as well as beneficial pollinators, such as honeybees. Therefore, Bt integrates well with other natural controls. For example, in Colorado, Bt to control corn borers in field corn has been stimulated by its ability to often avoid later spider mite problems. Mite outbreaks commonly result following destruction of their natural enemies by less selective treatments.
Perhaps the major advantage is that Bt is essentially nontoxic to people, pets and wildlife. This high margin of safety recommends its use on food Crops or in other sensitive sites where pesticide use can cause adverse effects.
[h=3]Application[/h]The greatest use of Bt involves the kurstaki strain used as a spray to control caterpillars on vegetable Crops. In addition, Bt is used in agriculture as a liquid applied through overhead irrigation systems or in a granular form for control of European corn borer. The treatments funnel down the corn whorl to where the feeding larvae occur.
Many formulations (but not all) are exempt from pesticide tolerance restrictions and may be used up to harvest on a wide variety of Crops. This also makes Bt useful in applications where pesticide drift onto Gardens is likely to occur, such as treating trees and shrubs. The exceptional safety of Bt products also makes them useful where exposure to pesticides is likely during mixing and application.
To control mosquito larvae, formulations containing the israelensis strain are placed into the standing water of mosquito breeding sites. For these applications, Bt usually is formulated as granules or solid, slow-release rings or brickettes to increase persistence. Rates of use are determined by the size of the water body. Make applications shortly after insect eggs are expected to hatch, such as after flooding due to rain or irrigation. Bt persistence in water is longer than on sun-exposed leaf surfaces, but reapply if favorable mosquito breeding conditions last for several weeks. Although the israelensis strain is quite specific in its activity, some types of nonbiting midges, which serve as food for fish and wildlife, also are susceptible and may be affected. For information on mosquito control, see fact sheet 5.526, Mosquito Management.
Use of Bt (israelensis) for control of fungus gnat larvae involves drenching the soil. Bt applied for control of elm leaf beetle or Colorado potato beetle (san diego/tenebrionis strain) is sprayed onto leaves in a manner similar to the formulations used for caterpillars. Bt does not control shore flies, another common fly found in greenhouses.
[h=3]Insects Controlled by Bt[/h]Kurstaki strain (Biobit, Dipel, MVP, Steward, Thuricide, etc.):
[SUP]1[/SUP] Colorado State University Extension entomologist and professor, bioagricultural sciences and pest management. 11/99. Reviewed 2/09.
- Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a naturally occurring bacterial disease of insects. These bacteria are the active ingredient in some insecticides.
- Bt insecticides are most commonly used against some leaf- and needle-feeding caterpillars. Recently, strains have been produced that affect certain fly larvae, such as mosquitoes, and larvae of leaf beetles.
- Bt is considered safe to people and nontarget species, such as wildlife. Some formulations can be used on essentially all food Crops.
The insecticidal activity of Bt was first discovered in 1911. However, it was not commercially available until the 1950s. In recent years, there has been tremendous renewed interest in Bt. Several new products have been developed, largely because of the safety associated with Bt-based insecticides.
[h=3]Properties[/h]Unlike typical nerve-poison insecticides, Bt acts by producing proteins (delta-endotoxin, the "toxic crystal") that reacts with the cells of the gut lining of susceptible insects. These Bt proteins paralyze the digestive system, and the infected insect stops feeding within hours. Bt-affected insects generally die from starvation, which can take several days.
Occasionally, the bacteria enter the insect's blood and reproduce within the insect. However, in most insects it is the reaction of the protein crystal that is lethal to the insect. Even dead bacteria containing the proteins are effective insecticides.
The most commonly used strain of Bt (kurstaki strain) will kill only leaf- and needle-feeding caterpillars. In the past decade, Bt strains have been developed that control certain types of fly larvae (israelensis strain, or Bti). These are widely used against larvae of mosquitoes, black flies and fungus gnats.
More recently, strains have been developed with activity against some leaf beetles, such as the Colorado potato beetle and elm leaf beetle (san diego strain, tenebrionis strain). Among the various Bt strains, insecticidal activity is specific. That is, Bt strains developed for mosquito larvae do not affect caterpillars. Development of Bt products is an active area and many manufacturers produce a variety of products. Effectiveness of the various formulations may differ.
[h=3]Disadvantages[/h]Bt is susceptible to degradation by sunlight. Most formulations persist on foliage less than a week following application. Some of the newer strains developed for leaf beetle control become ineffective in about 24 hours.
Manufacturers are experimenting with several techniques to increase its persistence. One involves inserting Bt toxic crystal genes into other species of bacteria that can better survive on leaf surfaces (e.g., the M-Trak formulation of san diego strain).
The highly specific activity of Bt insecticides might limit their use on Crops where problems with several pests occur, including nonsusceptible insects (aphids, grasshoppers, etc.). As strictly a stomach poison insecticide, Bt must be eaten to be effective, and application coverage must be thorough. This further limits its usefulness against pests that are susceptible to Bt but rarely have an opportunity to eat it in field use, such as codling moth or corn earworm that tunnel into plants. Additives (sticking or wetting agents) often are useful in a Bt application to improve performance, allowing it to cover and resist washing.
Since Bt does not kill rapidly, users may incorrectly assume that it is ineffective a day or two after treatment. This, however, is merely a perceptual problem, because Bt-affected insects eat little or nothing before they die.
Bt-based products tend to have a shorter shelf life than other insecticides. Manufacturers generally indicate reduced effectiveness after two to three years of storage. Liquid formulations are more perishable than dry formulations. Shelf life is greatest when storage conditions are cool, dry and out of direct sunlight.
[h=3]Advantages[/h]The specific activity of Bt generally is considered highly beneficial. Unlike most insecticides, Bt insecticides do not have a broad spectrum of activity, so they do not kill beneficial insects. This includes the natural enemies of insects (predators and parasites), as well as beneficial pollinators, such as honeybees. Therefore, Bt integrates well with other natural controls. For example, in Colorado, Bt to control corn borers in field corn has been stimulated by its ability to often avoid later spider mite problems. Mite outbreaks commonly result following destruction of their natural enemies by less selective treatments.
Perhaps the major advantage is that Bt is essentially nontoxic to people, pets and wildlife. This high margin of safety recommends its use on food Crops or in other sensitive sites where pesticide use can cause adverse effects.
[h=3]Application[/h]The greatest use of Bt involves the kurstaki strain used as a spray to control caterpillars on vegetable Crops. In addition, Bt is used in agriculture as a liquid applied through overhead irrigation systems or in a granular form for control of European corn borer. The treatments funnel down the corn whorl to where the feeding larvae occur.
Many formulations (but not all) are exempt from pesticide tolerance restrictions and may be used up to harvest on a wide variety of Crops. This also makes Bt useful in applications where pesticide drift onto Gardens is likely to occur, such as treating trees and shrubs. The exceptional safety of Bt products also makes them useful where exposure to pesticides is likely during mixing and application.
To control mosquito larvae, formulations containing the israelensis strain are placed into the standing water of mosquito breeding sites. For these applications, Bt usually is formulated as granules or solid, slow-release rings or brickettes to increase persistence. Rates of use are determined by the size of the water body. Make applications shortly after insect eggs are expected to hatch, such as after flooding due to rain or irrigation. Bt persistence in water is longer than on sun-exposed leaf surfaces, but reapply if favorable mosquito breeding conditions last for several weeks. Although the israelensis strain is quite specific in its activity, some types of nonbiting midges, which serve as food for fish and wildlife, also are susceptible and may be affected. For information on mosquito control, see fact sheet 5.526, Mosquito Management.
Use of Bt (israelensis) for control of fungus gnat larvae involves drenching the soil. Bt applied for control of elm leaf beetle or Colorado potato beetle (san diego/tenebrionis strain) is sprayed onto leaves in a manner similar to the formulations used for caterpillars. Bt does not control shore flies, another common fly found in greenhouses.
[h=3]Insects Controlled by Bt[/h]Kurstaki strain (Biobit, Dipel, MVP, Steward, Thuricide, etc.):
- Vegetable insects
- Cabbage worm (cabbage looper, imported cabbageworm, diamondback moth, etc.).
- Tomato and tobacco hornworm.
- Field and forage crop insects
- European corn borer (granular formulations have given good control of first generation corn borers).
- Alfalfa caterpillar, alfalfa webworm.
- Fruit crop insects
- Leafroller.
- Achemon sphinx.
- Tree and shrub insects
- Tent caterpillar.
- Fall webworm.
- Leafroller.
- Red-humped caterpillar.
- Spiny elm caterpillar.
- Western spruce budworm.
- Pine budworm.
- Pine butterfly.
- Mosquito.
- Black fly.
- Fungus gnat.
- Colorado potato beetle.
- Elm leaf beetle.
- Cottonwood leaf beetle.
[SUP]1[/SUP] Colorado State University Extension entomologist and professor, bioagricultural sciences and pest management. 11/99. Reviewed 2/09.
I can't give advice on top dressing I only know what I try and I don't know much . lol. I stay away from the bone meals without cooking time though. Sounds like your top dressing will be good if in flowering though maybe some more P ? Maybe some Jamaican quano ?
My teas and top dressing Base is always seabird quano and in vegg I use Mexican quano with it > in flower I use seabird and Jamaican or Indonesian . I like Jamaican better because of it's texture. Indonesian is fine powder and seems to cake the surface and not let water thru as fast. Now with the base stuff I like to add some alfalfa meal for N and Kelp cause it's good stuff. And of course some molasses for the heard. I kinda just took an old standard tea receipe and turned it into top dressing.
MrStickyScissors
Well-Known Member
indonesian bat guano in my soil
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Cool man. Do you use alfalfa meal in the top dressing? I got kelp meal instead of alfalfa, so maybe I'll add a little extra of that. Do you ever mix yours into coco or peat or add pure guanos to the top.
Also, you ever try and treat fungus gnats with a heavy EWC top dressing? I'm going to try that and a neem drench indoors to get rid of some of these outdoor soil dwellers. I bought a knock-off of FFOF by Gardner Bloome (called Eden Valley or something) it dries out a little faster, so I add a brick of coco to it to keep it wet. the problem is that it was full of fungus gnats and hopefully not root aphids, so now I have to battle that off. I guess I'm just going to stick to indoor stored Fox Farms until I get my hydro system built. Going all NFT indoors
If it wasn't for the bug issues, I would only use that Eden Valley plus the coco, it's cheaper by a few bucks and you get half a cubic foot more, not to mention it's just as good besides the issues I experienced.
Also, you ever try and treat fungus gnats with a heavy EWC top dressing? I'm going to try that and a neem drench indoors to get rid of some of these outdoor soil dwellers. I bought a knock-off of FFOF by Gardner Bloome (called Eden Valley or something) it dries out a little faster, so I add a brick of coco to it to keep it wet. the problem is that it was full of fungus gnats and hopefully not root aphids, so now I have to battle that off. I guess I'm just going to stick to indoor stored Fox Farms until I get my hydro system built. Going all NFT indoors
If it wasn't for the bug issues, I would only use that Eden Valley plus the coco, it's cheaper by a few bucks and you get half a cubic foot more, not to mention it's just as good besides the issues I experienced.
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Keep the bag seeds down wind of the rest of the pack to be safe. Just watch for bananas and pick them off until the soonest possible crop time or just chop the thing down to save the rest of the plants. It's a sad fucking thing when it happens. On that Pakistani Punch it happened in the last 2 weeks of flower, so I just kept picking them off and searching for them until harvest, didn't get any premature seeds (probably too late even if pollen got out) and I only found 2 or 3 bananas I missed during trim. If I didn't need every single gram so bad at the time I would have cropped that thing 2 weeks early and hashed it. That's the plan if any of this TGA gear decides to toss bananas my way indoors.
Current tea
Bennie tea
1/4 tsp roots Oregonism
1/4tsp mycos example Natures solution wp mycos (multi strains)
1 tbsp Ewc
1tbsp ancient forest
1 tbsp blackstrap
Makes one gallon
Use at the rate of 1/2 cup - 1 cup per five gallons or more. U can't burn with it.
Veg
1 tbsp Mexican guano
2tbsp cottonseed meal
1tbsp Jamaican guano
1tbsp earth worm castings
1tbsp insect frass (optional)
1tbsp ancient forest
1tbsp powdered kelp/meal
2tbsp alfalfa meal
1tbsp azos (veg only nitrogen fixing molecule must have)
1tbsp cyto plus (optional but preferred)
Fl plus by the bottle instructions
1tbsp molasses
1-2 tbsp oatmeal
Makes one gallon concentrate
Generally use at the rate of 1 gallon concentrate to one gallon dechlorinated water
Flower
1tbsp Mexican guano
1tbsp cottonseed meal
1tbsp Jamaican guano
1tbsp Indonesian guano
1tbsp earth worm castings
1tbsp frass(optional)
1tbsp kelp powder
2tbsp alfalfa meal
1tbsp cyto plus (til stretch is over) (optional but preferred)
1tbsp ancient forest
Fl plus follow directions on bottle
Molasses 1tbsp
1-2 tbsp oatmeal
Makes one gallon concentrate
Use at the rate of 1 gallon concentrate to one gallon dechlorinated water or up to full strength. No dilution.
Top dress recipe
1 part Jamaican
1 part Indonesian
2 parts kelp meal
You can turn this into a dry mix
Example 1tbsp each guano with 2 tbsp kelp meal makes 2 tbsp top dress mix.
2tbsp top dress mix to each pot immediately before each watering From beginning of week two in flower til flush.
If you want to do it individually by pot by individual ingredient. It's
1/2 tbsp Jamaican
1/2 tbsp Indo
1 tbsp kelp
Every water to every pot from week two in flower til flush starts.
Make sure you rake your top soil to keep broken up and draining right.
Bennie tea
1/4 tsp roots Oregonism
1/4tsp mycos example Natures solution wp mycos (multi strains)
1 tbsp Ewc
1tbsp ancient forest
1 tbsp blackstrap
Makes one gallon
Use at the rate of 1/2 cup - 1 cup per five gallons or more. U can't burn with it.
Veg
1 tbsp Mexican guano
2tbsp cottonseed meal
1tbsp Jamaican guano
1tbsp earth worm castings
1tbsp insect frass (optional)
1tbsp ancient forest
1tbsp powdered kelp/meal
2tbsp alfalfa meal
1tbsp azos (veg only nitrogen fixing molecule must have)
1tbsp cyto plus (optional but preferred)
Fl plus by the bottle instructions
1tbsp molasses
1-2 tbsp oatmeal
Makes one gallon concentrate
Generally use at the rate of 1 gallon concentrate to one gallon dechlorinated water
Flower
1tbsp Mexican guano
1tbsp cottonseed meal
1tbsp Jamaican guano
1tbsp Indonesian guano
1tbsp earth worm castings
1tbsp frass(optional)
1tbsp kelp powder
2tbsp alfalfa meal
1tbsp cyto plus (til stretch is over) (optional but preferred)
1tbsp ancient forest
Fl plus follow directions on bottle
Molasses 1tbsp
1-2 tbsp oatmeal
Makes one gallon concentrate
Use at the rate of 1 gallon concentrate to one gallon dechlorinated water or up to full strength. No dilution.
Top dress recipe
1 part Jamaican
1 part Indonesian
2 parts kelp meal
You can turn this into a dry mix
Example 1tbsp each guano with 2 tbsp kelp meal makes 2 tbsp top dress mix.
2tbsp top dress mix to each pot immediately before each watering From beginning of week two in flower til flush.
If you want to do it individually by pot by individual ingredient. It's
1/2 tbsp Jamaican
1/2 tbsp Indo
1 tbsp kelp
Every water to every pot from week two in flower til flush starts.
Make sure you rake your top soil to keep broken up and draining right.
jbrown3
Active Member
ya there all in a small area being covered by netting so it would instanstly hit the other crops, what strains are you running indoor, pretty soon ill be running 8 plants in my new room, i have 5 strains to choose from, snow leopard, sunshine daydream, goji og, silver mountain, jabbas stash. i wanna run 4 SD and 4 Snow leopards on my first go