Hey quick question, I've heard with hydro systems you need to keep the water in the low 70's, how are y'all archiving these temps? Are y'all keeping the room that cool or are you all running chillers? I've seen alot of people who aren't running chillers so I'm kinda curious since I'm about to set up my bubbleponics system. Thanks in advance.
Bubbleponics temperature question
- Thread starter Nodgman
- Start date
Bigdaddeh
New Member
I'm also looking at running bubbleponics on my next run and have been doing a fair bit of research. Some quick points for you.
- Be mindful that the submerged pumps will also raise the water temps.
- The lower the temperature, the more dissolved oxygen the water can contain.
- The higher the water temp, the more oxygen the roots will need but the water contains less.
- Higher water temps (75-85) is ripe breeding ground for cyanobacteria (aka slime algae)
I'm going straight to a chiller and not messing around with the temps but some people freeze 2L bottles of water and put that in their reservoir but imo thats a lot of work all the time and unstable. They have them for reef tank setups so check prices from aquarium supply places. The Hydro section of this forum has a wealth of info stickied
- Be mindful that the submerged pumps will also raise the water temps.
- The lower the temperature, the more dissolved oxygen the water can contain.
- The higher the water temp, the more oxygen the roots will need but the water contains less.
- Higher water temps (75-85) is ripe breeding ground for cyanobacteria (aka slime algae)
I'm going straight to a chiller and not messing around with the temps but some people freeze 2L bottles of water and put that in their reservoir but imo thats a lot of work all the time and unstable. They have them for reef tank setups so check prices from aquarium supply places. The Hydro section of this forum has a wealth of info stickied
Lemon king
Well-Known Member
Long time bubbler here mate!
the res temps aint a prob at all, growth is so fast by week 3-4 of veg (not inc 2week seedling/clone rooting time) your canopy will completly cover the lid of your pot, the canopy keeps the buckets cool and in constant shade.
never flush with plain water untill 10days from chop if you have problems just change the res for a new nute solution
last point> always get the biggest pump you can and the smallest airstones (not super tiny) make the stones work not the pump. most growers dont have pumps big enough to make a huge airstone bubble properly!!
that last points real important! good luck!!
the res temps aint a prob at all, growth is so fast by week 3-4 of veg (not inc 2week seedling/clone rooting time) your canopy will completly cover the lid of your pot, the canopy keeps the buckets cool and in constant shade.
never flush with plain water untill 10days from chop if you have problems just change the res for a new nute solution
last point> always get the biggest pump you can and the smallest airstones (not super tiny) make the stones work not the pump. most growers dont have pumps big enough to make a huge airstone bubble properly!!
that last points real important! good luck!!
Dub2727
Active Member
Im 90% positive you wont need a chiller. It can be 85° in my tent and its still 70° in my bubbler. Good luck. Dont stress too much. You will know when your not doing something right, but the cool thing is, just dump the bucket out and refill it. I chose to go with a bubbler for that reason and no worries of over watering or pests etc. Just be careful in Flower, my plants have drank nearly an entire bucket of water in 3 days.
midnitetoak
Active Member
I think it really depends upon the ambient temperature of your area. I am using no chiller or ice & have had no issues so far but that may be because my rez is on a cold stone floor...it always stays cool. I got a pool thermometer that reads a constant 67 deg even when it gets up to 80 inside the tent.
As a soil grower for years I can attest that dwc is much faster and once everything is dialed in maintaining it is a snap. I go several days without even looking at my plants sometimes. It is important to monitor water levels, ph, & ppms in dwc/hydro but once you have it all in range it takes minimal effort to maintain. Give it a try first before passing it off as "too much work."
As a soil grower for years I can attest that dwc is much faster and once everything is dialed in maintaining it is a snap. I go several days without even looking at my plants sometimes. It is important to monitor water levels, ph, & ppms in dwc/hydro but once you have it all in range it takes minimal effort to maintain. Give it a try first before passing it off as "too much work."
Thanks for the reply. Cyano is the lamest thing ever if you've ever had it. I had an outbreak in my reef aquarium awhile back, its very hard to get rid of (at least out of an aquarium that has live coral in it, because their are some easy solutions but they all kill coral)I'm also looking at running bubbleponics on my next run and have been doing a fair bit of research. Some quick points for you.
- Be mindful that the submerged pumps will also raise the water temps.
- The lower the temperature, the more dissolved oxygen the water can contain.
- The higher the water temp, the more oxygen the roots will need but the water contains less.
- Higher water temps (75-85) is ripe breeding ground for cyanobacteria (aka slime algae)
I'm going straight to a chiller and not messing around with the temps but some people freeze 2L bottles of water and put that in their reservoir but imo thats a lot of work all the time and unstable. They have them for reef tank setups so check prices from aquarium supply places. The Hydro section of this forum has a wealth of info stickied
i also agree ice cant be a wise choice.
I know if need be i can get a great deal on a used chiller, see back when everyone was using metal halides on their reed aquariums, they all needed chillers, but since then LEDS have dominated the markets and people can hardly "give" away their halides and chillers. Like i have a buddy selling a $600 chiller for $150. Might be something to keep in mind for anyone looking to buy one, but not wanting to spend a ton of money.
Thanks again for the reply
Thanks for the reply. Yeah i actually bought one of the high performance($80) air pumps a while back when i was breeding marine fish, so i know what you mean with the air stones. They also have a tendency to clog up really quick. The amount of air flow can also depend on the depth of water, but im sure you've noticed that.
Thanks for the advice!
See i was thinking about this as well. Infact i started to do a test, puting the tote filled with water inside my tent for 24hrs then checking the temp.
Thanks for the reply and advice!
superstoner1
Well-Known Member
Exactly, control and consistency is key. frozen water bottles do fine for controlling res temps, consistently warm temps over 72 will have issues. The larger the pump the more heat you are putting into the res.
superstoner1
Well-Known Member
Netpots have nothing to do with plant size in hydro, they are for support only. I use 2" from clone to harvest and have plants 5-6' tall and 3-6oz depending on strain.
Dub2727
Active Member
3" is perfect.
That's kinda what I figured, since the roots aren't going to be constrained to the size of the pot. But I have been known to "figure" wrong, so for the sake of the plants I wanted to ask. Thanks guys