Hear Ye- Hear Ye LED Tubes + HH Spray 2.0 + BrandX Seeds

[PetFlora]

I was looking for a new tote that wasn't as deep as my big red tote, which I used upstairs in my HOT5 tent. Not that the depth is a big problem but the high side walls can get in the way.

I would get a E & F tray but they are $$$$$$

But I found this at HD for $9.97! and may only need the lid. I will be doing some dry run testing in a bit

My plan is to move the babies into 1 liter Air Pots ASAP to maximize root development, which is already getting out of hand in the 1.5" net pots hanging over the bubbler.

I'm confident that I can cluster 3 APs under one Ring x 2 without issues, and they should veg just fine. Once big enough I will simply drop the entire 1 liter APs into 4 liter APs and side fill with either lava rock and/or river rock

I am trying to reveg clone # 2 in a single bucket HH. I just put the 160 gph pump on a timer with 15/30 intervals

 

[PetFlora]

I am ecstatic to report my idea has gone as planned

Now I just have to monitor the babies to make sure they are happy campers

I chose this size tray as it will also accommodate 3 @ 4 liter APs (each with its own Halo Ring), as once the babies grow to the next stage I will put the entire 1 liter APs inside the 4 liter APs (again side-filling the sides with river rock and the bottom with lava rock).

3 will be moved upstairs to the other tent with the much anticipated, but yet to be named prototype LED fixture that isn't here yet

In the lower right hand corner is a hole for draining back to the rez. As I had no place left to put the 7th plant I put it over the hole so it can get watered

 

[PetFlora]

As you can tell from the 2 @ 3 clone clusters over 2 Hydro Halo Rings, some adjusting was a given. I also have the Clone #2 reveg experiment going in a single bucket self contained HH system in the right hand corner. The 6" rings too small for 3 APs, I have another so I will make that super quick adjustment as soon as I am done here.

Arranged in a triangle to max benefit from led globe lumens



All of a sudden it dawned on me to use a HH Drip Ring + pump inside my outboard rez.

Now I am going to put my HH Ring on the tripod legs (included) and put it in the well of a curved bowl filled with river rock. The lip of which should be >5" above the rez line so as to create a sufficient turbulence in the rez surface below. Dollar Stores sell small plastic organizers in a variety of sizes, whose 4 sides have large holes, makes a perfect stand to raise the bowl

I'm 2-3 weeks away from moving 3-4 plants upstairs. Hoping the Lone Ranger led light gets here by then

If you don't have a pump then buy a 160 gph $10 from www.cheaphydroponics.com

The volume and high walls of my rez might allow me to use my 320 gph pump, which will create a lot more turbulence, but add some heat

Now I am going to put my HH Ring on the tripod legs (included) and put it in the well of a curved bowl filled with river rock. The lip of which should be >5" above the rez line so as to create a sufficient disturbance in the rez surface below. Dollar Stores sell small plastic organizers in a variety of sizes, whose 4 sides have large holes, makes a perfect stand


So, for less than the price of a quality air pump + quality air stones I will be moving the nutes + aerating them, and adding chi by having the ring spray crash onto and flow over the river rocks 24/7. I'm betting this will pay dividends

If I wasn't running the feed cycle on a timer I could just T off the pump's riser, but I come from the school that believes hydro roots need/want a dry period to properly process the food before their next meal. The trick is to find sweet spot between how much and how often to feed them.

So how are the girls doing? I'm glad you ask. Very well, thank you, but that is to be expected as there is virtually no trauma- small net cup drops directly into larger net cup side filled with river rock.

Once I get a new starter tote and a 3+" hole saw blade (keep forgetting to put it on my list) all future seedlings/clones will start in the 3.5" net cups. I have a feeling the roots will establish a much larger diameter base than they did the first go round, due to the the net cup being twice as wide across the bottom

 

[PetFlora]

Now that Ive got a handle on the volume of nutes are flowing and how long the net cups stay wet, I increased the length of time between feed cycles

HH Tray- Now at 30 seconds on and one hour off

In the reveg bucket, due to timer having 15 min intervals, feed cycle is 15 min/hour during lights on, but will increase to every 2-3 hours by tomorrow

8/26 I started out using 2 legs on each HH Ring (I inserted them inside the APs), thinking I needed them to anchor the rings. This limited my ability to move the APs for max nutrients near the main stalk. Turns out the rings stay put without legs, so plants are getting more nutes where they need them most

I also lowered the vanity fixture to get more lumens closer to the babies

It occurred to me to use my Sentinel timer, which was upstairs awaiting the babies

Revveg time now ~20/45 min off
Tray 15/45 minutes off

 

[PetFlora]

G13x seeds cracked on 8/6, the WHx were started later and cracked on 8/9.

As the cotyledons opened, I placed them in my DIY bubbler, now ~ 15 days old, but only the beginning of the 4th day in the AP/HH system.

It appears that I am onto a dynamic way to veg young plants/clones

It occurred to me that a small AP system also lends itself to SOG, I will attempt to grow 2 of the BrandX WH x this way, side-by-side with 2 in 4 liter APs.

I have grown a sat dom to harvest in a 1 liter in my first iteration of spraying from the top. There is probably a pic of it at harvest near the end of my D2W 320gph thread. It grew quite well, any shortcomings the result of my DIY spry system not adequately watering it

View attachment 2793871View attachment 2793872

 

[PetFlora]

I am noticing that nutes are evaporating fast, consequently the importance of having sufficient head room (extra nutes in the rez) in order to supply the full volume during each feeding.

Also, I increased the 'on' time from 15 seconds to 25 seconds

Stems are quite strong + leafs are getting large

Once they develop a few more nodes, which means the root system is expanding, I will decrease the pause time, so the plants get fed more often

 

[Chronikool]

How is your re-veg clone going...?

 

[PetFlora]

C, reveg is fine, no signs of death, but too soon for new leafs. Unfortunately, it did not have many saveable side branches

Here's my first attempt to create max DO/Chi. This is on its' own 160gph pump

The bucket diameter is too narrow. Keep in mind this set up requires a second pump to pump nutes to the plants.

It works, BUT...

I think it requires a flat plate, as opposed to a curved bowl as the water does not cascade/fall over the edge, instead it rolls down the underside of the bowl.

However, a flat plate will not hold the legs in place, so be prepared to make the necessary adjustments

I decided to post pics of my babies

The main stalks are strong

Might as well show you how the babies are responding

 

[PetFlora]

I found a pic of plants grown in 1 Liter Air Pots using my first DIY top watering system, prior to HH Rings. They were only getting ~ 40% of the nutes each feeding

Also found a pic of HH 1.0 roots stuck on lava rock

 

[PICOGRAV]

So the roots are happy just sitting on rocks? What kind of rock works best?

 

[PetFlora]

Well not just sitting. Lava rock has tons of nooks and crannies that retain small droplets of nutes that the root hairs feed off between feedings. The roots stick on them like cobwebs

This grow I am using more river rock, but in the bottom of the 4 liter APs I will use some lava rock. It does tend to break down. I got a fair amount of grains in the bottom of the tote last grow. Didn't seem to cause any issues but...

 

[PICOGRAV]

Do you get new Lava rock each grow? I wonder is its cheaper then soil this way, aside from the initial investment.

 

[PetFlora]

PICOGRAV: Totally reusable after a good rinse

Cree vs the Rest

Check this, the G13x at ~ 3 o'clock in my pics is outgrowing all the others and by a good margin. The next closest plant (~ 6 o'clock) is the second biggest

Guess what bulb they have been closest to- the CREE Bright White, which to my eyes is more 5000 than 6000. Sure enough, it is

I have long intuited that the 4000-5000 range is more important than growers realize (but hps users do). In my HOT5 tent I combine UVL Aquasuns with 6500s for a slightly warmer color rendition and fine looking veg results

Until I can get to HD to buy a couple more, I will rotate the splitter to better position the Cree to more of the other plants

Damn, I had to add 3qts of nutes again @ ~ 450ppm.

Most likely they can't use all of it, so thinking to replenish with pHed structured water 2 times, then refill with fresh nutes

 

[PetFlora]

The article below, presented on another thread by Chazbolin is courtesy of Inda-Gro is why I don't make a big deal out of watts/lumens/intensity or umols, although more 5000-6000 K are needed for veg and more 2400-4000 K needed to flower. Driver headroom/stability may have as much to do with the outcome as anything. The lack thereof may be why my ufo 90 has performed so poorly

1w, 3w, 5w...diodes assuming they all have the same lens angles, the greater the wattage the farther away from the canopy, in essence, negating the presumed benefits of the higher power.

I think it's more about the even distribution of said watts over the canopy.

Now that said, more evenly distributed watts = better veg and fatter nuggz

That's my story, and I'm stickin to it

http://www.inda-gro.com/pdf/MeasuringPlantLight.pdf

 

[PICOGRAV]

The article below, presented on another thread by Chazbolin is courtesy of Inda-Gro is why I don't make a big deal out of watts/lumens/intensity or umols, although more 5000-6000 K are needed for veg and more 2400-4000 K needed to flower. Driver headroom/stability may have as much to do with the outcome as anything. The lack thereof may be why my ufo 90 has performed so poorly

1w, 3w, 5w...diodes assuming they all have the same lens angles, the greater the wattage the farther away from the canopy, in essence, negating the presumed benefits of the higher power.

I think it's more about the even distribution of said watts over the canopy.

Now that said, more evenly distributed watts = better veg and fatter nuggz

That's my story, and I'm stickin to it

http://www.inda-gro.com/pdf/MeasuringPlantLight.pdf

This is almost identical to my own conclusions, I am already planing for a large scale implementation of this ideal and it will consist 20 high power Bridglux LED's per grow chamber 10 x 5000k and 10 x 2700k, each chamber holding 10 plants, LED's will be capable of 140 watts of peak power displacement, 2800 watts in total for each chamber and be driven by a constantly variable power/driver system interdependently dimmable in banks of 10 LED's, to allow for color mixing.

I have to get through the first grow with my current setup and absurve what happens during flowering and possibly head in a new direction but I am pretty sure I could get some good results with my current idea. From looking at the little ones I have going now, they seem super flat and spread out and happy, I think the abundance of defuse light available is really going to help them especially in the beginning stages of development.

View attachment 2796519View attachment 2796520

 

[PetFlora]

I probably neglected to mention where my crazy idea came from. I took a ~ 2ft pvc tube 1.5" diameter filled it with river rock and run my RO water through 3xs just before making up nutes- one may be enough

If you are handy you can DIY something a bit more sophisticated, though not necessarily better. Check out the many Structured Water videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDYuUlyhtjk

I have a ~ 2ft PVC tube that I filled with river rock and run my nute water through it 3xs before mixing- once may be sufficient

I moved everything to a plastic container bottom ~ 6 x 9, like prepared foods come in

Will post a pic when I hook it up.

 

[PetFlora]

Now that the babies have developed a good amount of leaf structure, I lowered the globes and tubes much closer to the canopy ~ 8-10"

 

[PICOGRAV]

Now that the babies have developed a good amount of leaf structure, I lowered the globes and tubes much closer to the canopy ~ 8-10"

What temps are you getting up to in your grow area?

 

[PetFlora]

~ 80*s, though I don't know why. Pretty much the same bulb compliment as last grow where temps were ~ 85*s

Perhaps the nutes cascading over the tray on their way back to the rez has a cooling effect. It certainly has an effect on evaporation

I moved the probe, temps now ~ 84*s

 

[PetFlora]

I will be using BrandX polycross G13xWW-pollinated with Bubblegum seeds for my upcoming grow, so I decided to research the 3 strains.

http://www.seedsman.com/origins-of-g13


White Widow numerous seed companies sell WW and may have slightly differing characteristics http://sensiseeds.com/en/cannabis-se...el/white-widow

White Widow is known for its abundance of THC and high potency. Its bud glistens with a high volume of trichome crystals.

At first White Widow provides an euphoric and energetic type high. After a while, the high level of Indica in the strain causes a tiredness and "couchlock" that Indica is famous for.

White Widow is a smaller, more compact plant, and is suitable for growing both indoors and outdoors.or this indicating Sat dominant

There was a time when nothing could touch White Widow. There’s been quantum leap forward in marijuana genetics in the last 10 to15 years, but White Widow was once the Mia Ham of marijuana, and is still regarded as a heavy-weight contender. And she should be. White Widow has won more awards than Nelson Mandela, including the coveted Cannabis Cup in 1995. And in a field ripe with world-class buds, the Widow still stands tall. The big pine-cone buds are iridescent green pinstriped with orange hairs. At full bloom the buds are covered in a white coating of sugary sativa trichomes. It’s an experience for the White Widow rookies. White Widow thrives indoors, but does well outdoors, too. The bouquet is skunky with undertones of spice. The high is pure sativa psychedelica, a pulsing, high-energy cerebral effect.

Bubblegum copied from marijuana Compare site

The original Bubble Gum is from the US. In the 1970’s it had the name Indiana Bubble Gum. It has been taken to Amsterdam during the 1990's where a stabilized strain was developed and was named Bubble Gum.

If you grow the Bubble Gum properly it will, according to its name, fill the entire house with a bubble gum aroma. Even when you smoke the plant you will taste a little bit of bubble gum.

The plant offers nice, dense and frosty buds. The plant height can be considered short 90 cm -120 cm (3-4 feet). The yield for this strain is medium. The strain is extreme potent with THC levels reaching up to 30%. While growing the plant can get a reddish color.

Bubble Gum is widely known to be the best tasting strains and logically has won the High Times Cannabis cup for 4 times.
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