Ronson shatter?
- Thread starter SLeUTh
- Start date
torturekiller420
Well-Known Member
Whoops, the question was directed towards the OP. Sorry VP, should of spaced that accordingly so it didn't seem like it was directed towards you.
SLeUTh
Member
I wanted to make it to see the final outcome product and the only reason I asked is cause its a forum dedicated to helping others and that's what I thought I would get was some helpful answers. The only helpful info I got was from VacPurge. About to post the Vector final product... Both of these runs as well as all my other runs are purged with Everclear to get the purest quality shatter and to remove all plant lipids, waxes, and fats. I'm not a fan of the honeycomb vacuum purged brownie looking oils... I like to achieve that golden transparent golden to clear shatter. Everyones opinion is appreciated...
vacpurge
New Member
looks nice.
you dont vacuum purge? I find even after 6 hours at 110F with a fan ive still got a shit load of everclear in my oil. how are you purging the everclear? I find it very hard to get rid of, 48 hour minimum without a vacuum it seems like.
after 6 hours I still got this everclear skin:
scrape, put into vacuum, and it lost near 10% weight... everclear weight!
you dont vacuum purge? I find even after 6 hours at 110F with a fan ive still got a shit load of everclear in my oil. how are you purging the everclear? I find it very hard to get rid of, 48 hour minimum without a vacuum it seems like.
after 6 hours I still got this everclear skin:
scrape, put into vacuum, and it lost near 10% weight... everclear weight!
vacpurge
New Member
a 99.5+% clean purge in about 2-4 hours (after the initial hot plate purge). it basically pulls out that remaining 1% or so of shit.
you dont realize how awesome the vacuum is till you have one, it basically speeds things up 10x faster.. turning a 48+ hour purge into a 4 hour purge.
I can take your oil, that you would bet your life on that its 100% purged, throw it in the chamber, and it would prob muffin up quite a bit (muffins are from solvents escaping most of the time) ... hence not being fully purged (no offense) . its VERY hard to purge without a vacuum ive found, or it just takes forever which im not fond of.
ive done everything, double boil for days, while whipping every few hours, in a thin layer for 48+ hours on heat the whole time.... I once had a fan sit on my oil for 2 weeks straight, while I went on vacation... posted some pics and people said it wasnt fully purged... I was offended at the start but finally came to admit, they were right. I would still only rate it roughly 98% purged at that point, which for many, would be good enough. but I find the vacuum is amazing for final purging, especially everclear...that stuff is not easy to evaporate. butane is easier though.
the negatives are:
costs 250$
can suck terps out of the oil
and if you forget to close valve, it ruins all your oil.
I originally bought the vacuum to make wax... the wax fad lasted about 2 months before I was sick of it (its not as great as everyone makes it out to be.. tastes like shit and hard to handle on dabber + takes me 7 days in the chamber) now, I LOVE using the vacuum to final purge my stuff, and make some true shatter tha has ZERO funny tastes, perfectly see through, rock hard, completely silent on the nail... it actually resists the nails heat for a few seconds because its such a solid/dense chunk.. basically "pure thc"... no waxes, no solvents, etc...
ps: these percentages are not exact...theyre just some random numbers I used to help me explain it.
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
It allows you to purge faster and more completely, at a lower temperature, so as to retain more carboxylic acids, while also retaining more monoterpenes.
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
A good point! Once a skin forms, it is most difficult for the solvent molecules to escape the surface.
The way I ended up at 115F, was to pull a -29.5"Hg vacuum on a thin film, and slowly raise the temperature until the bubbles could break the surface and escape. They started forming bumps and lumps in the thin film, until it reached about 115F, at which point they freely broke free and burst at the surface.
117 would be better?
kidding
SLeUTh
Member
Ever do research from this website?
http://skunkpharmresearch.com/bho-extraction/
http://skunkpharmresearch.com/bho-extraction/
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
Good point! It may be 13.783F,or 16.2F, but 115F is close enough to work.117 would be better?
vacpurge
New Member
how come you dont use lower temperatures (ie; no heat or natural evaporation) @ longer time periods to preserve more terpenes???
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
The mono terpenes are all high vapor pressure aromatic hydrocarbons, which evaporate off readily even sitting around at room temperature. The best way that we've found to retain the original plant flavor, is to heat the oil hot enough for the solvent bubbles to readily escape, under vacuum, and as soon as they are gone, jarring the concentrate so that the remaining monterpenes can't escape.
You also don't need or want all the monoterpenes, because you are concentrating them as well, and in high concentration, many taste like hammered feces. Go take a sip of Pinesol, to emphasize my point.
The monoterpenes are also so pungent, that they mask the less aromatic fruity flavored sesquiterpenes. A well made extract retains enough monoterpenes to taste and smell like the original oil, but that means that the sesquiterpene smells and flavors also need to come through.
Monoterpenes are the pungent smells and tastes of the plant world, so you need enough, but not just too, too much.
You also don't need or want all the monoterpenes, because you are concentrating them as well, and in high concentration, many taste like hammered feces. Go take a sip of Pinesol, to emphasize my point.
The monoterpenes are also so pungent, that they mask the less aromatic fruity flavored sesquiterpenes. A well made extract retains enough monoterpenes to taste and smell like the original oil, but that means that the sesquiterpene smells and flavors also need to come through.
Monoterpenes are the pungent smells and tastes of the plant world, so you need enough, but not just too, too much.
cheefbird
Member
When you're curious about the quality of a particular butane, you can always google the MSDS for it. Vector (which is also power) is easily found as well for comparison.
Here is the MSDS for Ronson Butane Refills. First, it appears to be up to purity standards for BHO making, though I'm unfamiliar as to whether it has received the coveted "near zero impurities" certification that some others (such as lucienne) have.
Most importantly, it does not contain ethyl mercaptan (ethanethiol), which is used to give the butane a smell (for safety reasons). This is a good thing, and based on the (admittedly limited) information I have, I would say it's OK to make BHO with.
I personally prefer lucienne and colibri, along with a few others.
Bottom line: you're fine. Taste/smell of BHO is 99% based on minute plant material and the resin itself. It takes on the smell/taste of the resin from your starting material, so if your starting material smells/tastes funky, you're likely to experience that in the BHO as well.
When you leave butane in BHO, it does cause some smell change, but this is negligible compared to what I've mentioned above. Butane is odorless, unless mercaptan is added, making it ideal for retaining the taste of your starting material.
Here is the MSDS for Ronson Butane Refills. First, it appears to be up to purity standards for BHO making, though I'm unfamiliar as to whether it has received the coveted "near zero impurities" certification that some others (such as lucienne) have.
Most importantly, it does not contain ethyl mercaptan (ethanethiol), which is used to give the butane a smell (for safety reasons). This is a good thing, and based on the (admittedly limited) information I have, I would say it's OK to make BHO with.
I personally prefer lucienne and colibri, along with a few others.
Bottom line: you're fine. Taste/smell of BHO is 99% based on minute plant material and the resin itself. It takes on the smell/taste of the resin from your starting material, so if your starting material smells/tastes funky, you're likely to experience that in the BHO as well.
When you leave butane in BHO, it does cause some smell change, but this is negligible compared to what I've mentioned above. Butane is odorless, unless mercaptan is added, making it ideal for retaining the taste of your starting material.