Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

YO, so was doing experiments with alfalfa SST and barley SST, and although I should of caught it by obvious observation, instead of using 2oz of alfalfa seed to make SST V2 it only takes about 1.2 oz to make 80+ grams (which is then made to puree) perfect for 5 gallon feeding. also from another observation, i first watered my small veg plant with alfalfa SST and quickly noticed that the nodes where much tighter on these LANKY ASS OGs, so alfalfa seed is def good for early veg mid veg early flower and prob mid flower... THOUGHTS?
 
So does that mean the growth inhibitors do nothing?. Or do more nodes grow with less stretch in a shorter time span?
 
Mohican said:
I think it is common knowledge in the plant industry that alfalfa has growth inhibitors that reduce stretch.
Click to expand...

I don't think it's as much inhibitors reducing stretch as stimulators (triacontanol) encouraging branching (more new nodes, less bare stem). Kindof accomplishes the same thing I guess.

This theory is just based off my experiences. When I give an alfalfa tea, my plants seem anything BUT inhibited. :)
 
"From cootz, on alfalfa

Here's a study from The Phytotron, University of Oslo, Blindern, Oslo 3 Norway titled Effect of Triacontanol on Production and Quality of Flowers ofChrysanthemum morifolium RamatQuote
Abstract

Two cultivars of Chrysanthemum morifolium, ‘Golden Horim’ and ‘Golden Miquel’, were cultivated in nutrient solution containing the growth regulator triacontanol. The vegetative growth, production of inflorescences and quality of flowers were measured. The dry weight of the whole plant and the shoot from both cultivars increased.

The number of inflorescences per plant and the number of flowers per inflorescence also increased in response to triacontanol treatment, which in turn enhanced the quality of flowers in accordance with the standards defined by sales-quality groups.

The number of flowers of superior quality was more than doubled.
​
Here are more links for you to peruse perhaps............

Basically Triacontanol is a simple fatty alcohol with a general formula of C30•H62•O - a ton of Carbon (@ 30) and Hydrogen (@ 62) bound to a single Oxygen atom. You can see from the molecular structure that this agent is quickly assimilated in the root zone.

I apply alfalfa teas throughout the veg and flower cycles[TABLE="class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center"]
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What makes alfalfa different from other plant-based soil amendments is that alfalfa meal is not a seed meal meaning that it's been minimally processed.

The other plant amendments like canola (aka rape seed), linseed (aka flax seed), soy, sunflower and neem seed is that these products are the cake or meal that remains after the oil has been pressed for their commercial value.

Alfalfa is not a seed meal meaning that it retains all of the compounds. It can be an important component to increase the microbial levels in your soil and is often recommena food when brewing an AACT

Personally I wouldn't grow without kelp and alfalfa

HTH

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I have a ? about some cooked soil I have that's infested with a trillion white/yellowish mites. looks like I mixed a third sand. They devoured 3 of my precious seedlings' roots. How are these damn things living with all the bennies and neem cake?! How do I rid of them? Thanks for any replies.
 
I'd say most soil dwelling mites are decomposes and pose no threat to your plants life. If anything they'll help, if you start seeing mites on your plant's it may be a different type of mite, that's when you may have an issue.
 
I've been reviewing my notes on making my own LAB Lacto Acid Bacillus which is the base for EM1.
Microbes cultivated and used for protecting plants from pathogens and digest nutrients in the soil to enhance growth.

  • Cultivaing bacterica
    1 cup whole grain rice
    2 cups h20 sans chloride
    Shake well store in closed container that has equal air space to material volume
    let set 3-5 days with top covered with paper towel room temp sans uv rays
    with syringe remove 7oz clear serum from infected mixture

    Separating bacteria LAB from hood of every bacteria from a-z
    Place 7oz bacterial serum into container with 70oz of whole milk raw is possible any well do
    Let set one week (7 days) as with the rice water mixture above
    Cheese will form on top remove feed to animals or add to compost
    remaining is your LAB separated out for use as you see fit. Approximate 1000ml 1 liter
    That's freaking easy you now have your very own hard working great for everything BACILLUS

    Storage
    You can keep in airtight container in fridge up to 3 years, goes dormant in one.
    Or add equal parts molasses to stabilize and store for up to 3 years cool room temp.
    When adding molasses stir well this now becomes 2 liters or 2000ml stabilized Bacillus
    ​




And I am being told this lacks additional needed strains and species compared to the following:
  • "You are creating One form of Bacilius bacteria with the LAB.

    There are 7 different strains of 4 different species of Bacilius in P3."​




http://www.prolificplantprobiotic.com/
Product Claims to have:


  • Bacillus Subtilis
    - Well known cattle feed ingredient
    - Spores are viable for decades; common soil inoculant: frees up nutrients from food sources
    - Symbiotic with roots as a colonizer; antagonistic to pathogens
    Bacillus Licheniformis
    - Found in soil and on bird feathers
    - Protease producer (especially breaks down feathers)
    - Biological “laundry detergent”
    - Adapts well to alkaline areas
    Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens
    - Source of the BamH1 restrictive enzyme (stifles virus and pathogens)
    - Source of Subtilisin, an organic “laundry detergent”
    - Causes starch hydrolysis of green plants
    - Produces Barnase, an antibiotic protein
    Bacillus Pumilis
    - Anti-fungal
    - Colonizes roots to prevent fungus formation
    - Highly stress resistant
    All are considered “rhizobacteria” for they breakdown atmospheric nitrogen into a compound easy to uptake by plants.
    Summary of P[SUP]3 [/SUP]Prolific Plant Probiotic™

    One dose (1 inch of pellets) contains:
    1. 600+ million CFUs of Bacillus microbes
    2. Micronutrient spectrum package usually depleted from soil
    3. Amino acids spectrum package critical for plant life
    4. Delivered on a carrier of plant roughage
    5. Contains seven strains from the above mentioned four Bacillus species



    ​




Is there anyway to add these different missing strains, if needed and really missing? Won't I get a better healthier spectrum of beneficial bacteria by using this homemade LAB in composting which will introduce other strains of bacteria in which LAB will help influence the growth of other beneficial bacteria that could ultimately provide a soil web that would not need to have a product like P3 added?
 
SpicySativa said:
I don't think it's as much inhibitors reducing stretch as stimulators (triacontanol) encouraging branching (more new nodes, less bare stem). Kindof accomplishes the same thing I guess.

This theory is just based off my experiences. When I give an alfalfa tea, my plants seem anything BUT inhibited. :)
Click to expand...

That is how I understand how Alpha works too.
 
RedCarpetMatches said:
I have a ? about some cooked soil I have that's infested with a trillion white/yellowish mites. looks like I mixed a third sand. They devoured 3 of my precious seedlings' roots. How are these damn things living with all the bennies and neem cake?! How do I rid of them? Thanks for any replies.
Click to expand...

I have had this happen with seedlings too once I started using fresh vermicompost. I now plant seedlings in just bag soil in cups till they get big enough and once they are established I have had zero problems . As far as getting rid of them in your cooked soil it is probably too wet. You could spread it out and dry it out or if its cold outside you could probably freeze it too. Really you shouldn't have that many mites in your soil if you do something is off. It would be best if we could see a pic of the type of mite. You could also get Hypoaspis miles which are predator mites that eat things like springtails , root aphids , gnats, etc. and are very beneficial in your soil. I have never had mites as bad as your saying although I have heard of it happening in a worm bin when there was not enough oxygen or the ph of the bin was way off and then they would feed on the dead/dying worms and there population would skyrocket.
 
NickNasty said:
I have had this happen with seedlings too once I started using fresh vermicompost. I now plant seedlings in just bag soil in cups till they get big enough and once they are established I have had zero problems . As far as getting rid of them in your cooked soil it is probably too wet. You could spread it out and dry it out or if its cold outside you could probably freeze it too. Really you shouldn't have that many mites in your soil if you do something is off. It would be best if we could see a pic of the type of mite. You could also get Hypoaspis miles which are predator mites that eat things like springtails , root aphids , gnats, etc. and are very beneficial in your soil. I have never had mites as bad as your saying although I have heard of it happening in a worm bin when there was not enough oxygen or the ph of the bin was way off and then they would feed on the dead/dying worms and there population would skyrocket.
Click to expand...

Yeah it's pretty bad. Like I said looks like I mixed a 1/3 sand :( I put about 12 cubic feet outside in cold...then had to medicate my back lol. Noticed it was over saturated like you said. I should have said tap root instead of seedling. It had a 1/4" tap when I put in soil and the damn things were all over it. I'll try to get a good close up pic.
 
If they are eating a tap root those are bad mites not mites you would usually find in a worm bin or want in your garden. And I hate to say it but I probably wouldn't keep that soil cause it will take forever to get rid of them unless sterilize it. You can use nematodes and the Hypoaspis miles but with a infestation that big it would take a long time to get rid of them that way. You might be able to sterilize it but it would kill off any good stuff you got going anyway. I would start with new soil and add nematodes/miles to that so the mites u have don't set up living quarters in your new soil. Any idea where you got them?
 
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