pH testing in soil

dankman1019

Member
Sup ppl, I have a quick question about testing pH levels in soil grows.

I have a soil test kit, but I'd also like to test runoff with a water kit. I found one that comes with both pH up and down solutions meant for hydroponics, should I be ok using them in soil? And what would be a better reading to judge if my pH is too high or low, soil or runoff? Thanks for your help.
 

dubcoastOGs

Well-Known Member
It's really a long subject, but to boil it down I suppose...

Most soil, your not gonna need to measure the ph of. Maybe towards the end, depending on if it's peat or coco based. But that's easily remedied. Like I said, most bag soil (FFOF, RO, etc,) is PH buffered to somewhere around 6.8, and as long as your putting in decent water. I don't think you'll have a ph problem. IMO.

I wouldn't put ph up or down in my water if it was going into dirt. Most ph adjusters are for hydro.

Are you using RO water?

My RO water, comes out at a ph of about 9. I add a little cal mag, nutes and it's down around 6.5. maybe more, maybe less. If I test the runoff, I get 6.8. Almost no matter what, If i test the runoff, I get 6.8

but maybe your mixing your own dirt...?
 

dankman1019

Member
Distilled water from the pharmacy, no RO system yet, soon maybe ;) I'm using whats left over from a previous grow, ffof and the ff line of soil nutes. I've always been successful with ff, just figured I should start testing pH when adding nutes to get an approx range of accuracy for future grows, and to compare to other nute lines.

I'm asking about the hydro pH kit because the individual drops aren't a whole lot cheaper than getting the whole kit with up/down solutions. Is there a best practice as far as controlling pH in soil goes?


:peace:
 

dubcoastOGs

Well-Known Member
I think you'll find you won't need to.

I like the FF line. I used it for years. both dirt and nutes. I'm now using Roots Organic dirt & nutes, plus their "surge" stimulant. I love the stuff, and get much better results.

I think with the FFOF being Peat based. You may see a slight change in PH towards the end of flowering. You may not. I really would not worry about it. sounds crazy right?

Make sure to use some Cal-Mag for sure.


Phosphoric acid, Potassium Hydroxide - Ugh! That's a good way to kill your dirt
 

beterthanjeff

Well-Known Member
i was ussing ffof and had the ph of the soil drop to 5.5 i think some nutes do drop the ph in the soil i test the run off now and i got it back to 6.8 i use the drops from a ph up n down kit works great for me

good luck
 

dankman1019

Member
I think you'll find you won't need to.

I like the FF line. I used it for years. both dirt and nutes. I'm now using Roots Organic dirt & nutes, plus their "surge" stimulant. I love the stuff, and get much better results.

I think with the FFOF being Peat based. You may see a slight change in PH towards the end of flowering. You may not. I really would not worry about it. sounds crazy right?

Make sure to use some Cal-Mag for sure.


Phosphoric acid, Potassium Hydroxide - Ugh! That's a good way to kill your dirt
I was going to start using Big Bloom with every watering as soon as the cotyledons sprout since it's organic, then probably start with Grow Big the last week of veg then onto Tiger Grow for flowering. What do you think, should I water with cal-mag when I start Grow Big, Tiger Grow, or from seed?

i was ussing ffof and had the ph of the soil drop to 5.5 i think some nutes do drop the ph in the soil i test the run off now and i got it back to 6.8 i use the drops from a ph up n down kit works great for me

good luck
Thanks man I'll keep it in mind.


:peace:
 

DemonTrich

Well-Known Member
im in FFOF amended soil, I add 1 cup powdered dolomite lime and other things. I always PH my water each and every time. my tap is 8.4ph and 103ppm. ive never had any issues regarding ph in 3 cycles. ive never checked run-off. I use GH ph-up and ph-down. never used down tho.
 

ThorGanjason

Well-Known Member
Yeah, you can test the runoff if you think you are having pH problems, but as long as your pH is close going in then you should be fine.

Fwiw, I usually have pH swings when my plants start to flower.
 

dubcoastOGs

Well-Known Member
I was going to start using Big Bloom with every watering as soon as the cotyledons sprout since it's organic, then probably start with Grow Big the last week of veg then onto Tiger Grow for flowering. What do you think, should I water with cal-mag when I start Grow Big, Tiger Grow, or from seed?



Thanks man I'll keep it in mind.


:peace:
A schedule can be helpful, but I prefer to read my plants, give them what they need and log it. You won't need to use big bloom that early, and really with the FFOF, not for probably the first few weeks, depending on container size, etc, etc.

i use cal mag with all my water. This is another very broad topic, with a lot of "if this, then that" sort of thing. But I use RO water. It comes out at about 09ppms. Most Nute lines, don't have a lot of cal or mag. Maybe cause they think most people are using tapwater.

So it's necessary to supplement my water with it. Without.... Ugh. It starts to show as a Nute deficiency, stems start to purple, leaves become a washed out green, it basically looks like a ph problem.

From what I read, aside from a few particular strains (or late in flowering) if your leaf stems are purple, you need calmag. It's not normal for stems to be purple. People may always see it, and it may seem like it doesn't affect them, but stems - main stalk or on a leaf, should not be purple.

If your using distilled water, you most certainly will need it. Tap water -no. Please don't use tapwater. Get an RO filter. They're like $125 on amazon. You won't regret it. And you'll have great drinking water all the time.

Nutes that that drop the ph of your soil, are nutes to stay away from. The micro biology in the soil is what's regulating your ph. They sustain their environment how they want it. If you put something in there that kills all that beneficial bacteria and micro biology, then your soil is no longer living. You killed it. Hang on for the ride.

So be mindful of what your putting in your dirt, and don't let the Joe Schmoe hydro bro at the local hydro grow sell you some stupid chemical to drop in your dirt for a 200% bigger yields.

Its just science.
 

JohnDee

Well-Known Member
Dankman,
I've been mostly a hydro guy, but always kept clone mammas in dirt. The soil should have been ph tested before starting any plants. Not sure about the exact proportions, but it's like maybe a cup of dirt in a quart of water and then test the water. You'll have to research the exact technique but soil growers do test and amend soil regularly.

Like Demon trich said, dolomite lime is good for raising ph. Powdered elemental sulphur slowly combines to form sulphuric acid...thus lowering ph. Used all the time and not as harsh as it sounds.
Good luck,
JD
 

dubcoastOGs

Well-Known Member
my tap water comes out 550ppm. Why would I ever use tap water? Out of a 1500ppm diet, I get to add 1000ppm, and the city water guy regulates the rest....??? is anyone freaking listening!?!? Instead, supplement RO with usable micros. Without all the fluoride, chlorine, etc, etc.

i could not not disagree more with this.

Basically it states this: don't use RO water cause it doesn't have micros, and instead of adding good ones, just use tap water since the city adds all that shit for you. Seriously guys. You want the city regulating the water you feed your girls with? Why would you even bother trying to grow organically?

Supplemented micros are gonna be a whole lot more useful than what your getting In your city's water supply.

just use Miracle grow dirt, instead of Ocean Forest. They both have NPK ratios.

Do you wanna grow bud, or do you wanna grow great bud?

We all know RO water doesnt have micros, that's why we freaking use it and add our own.


but go ahead, Use tap water, Even ph Up/Down it. enjoy! lol

.02 - paradox
 

Nullis

Moderator
Municipalities don't typically add minerals to the tap water. High amounts of Ca and Mg can come from deposits of limestone/dolomite or gypsum near the aquifers. Other minerals like iron and manganese can also come from the Earth and be washed into groundwater\aquifers. There also may be trace amounts of copper from pipes.
 

dankman1019

Member
Thanks man, will do

Dankman,
I've been mostly a hydro guy, but always kept clone mammas in dirt. The soil should have been ph tested before starting any plants. Not sure about the exact proportions, but it's like maybe a cup of dirt in a quart of water and then test the water. You'll have to research the exact technique but soil growers do test and amend soil regularly.

Like Demon trich said, dolomite lime is good for raising ph. Powdered elemental sulphur slowly combines to form sulphuric acid...thus lowering ph. Used all the time and not as harsh as it sounds.
Good luck,
JD
I think I'll be ok with ffof and distilled with calmag, I will be testing the pH regularly so this is helpful, thanks for the good vibes man

Municipalities don't typically add minerals to the tap water. High amounts of Ca and Mg can come from deposits of limestone/dolomite or gypsum near the aquifers. Other minerals like iron and manganese can also come from the Earth and be washed into groundwater\aquifers. There also may be trace amounts of copper from pipes.
Yeah, my building is very old and I know for a fact the copper pipes are 50+ years. I wouldn't drink the water let alone feed it to my girls lol

A schedule can be helpful, but I prefer to read my plants, give them what they need and log it. You won't need to use big bloom that early, and really with the FFOF, not for probably the first few weeks, depending on container size, etc, etc.

i use cal mag with all my water. This is another very broad topic, with a lot of "if this, then that" sort of thing. But I use RO water. It comes out at about 09ppms. Most Nute lines, don't have a lot of cal or mag. Maybe cause they think most people are using tapwater.

So it's necessary to supplement my water with it. Without.... Ugh. It starts to show as a Nute deficiency, stems start to purple, leaves become a washed out green, it basically looks like a ph problem.

From what I read, aside from a few particular strains (or late in flowering) if your leaf stems are purple, you need calmag. It's not normal for stems to be purple. People may always see it, and it may seem like it doesn't affect them, but stems - main stalk or on a leaf, should not be purple.

If your using distilled water, you most certainly will need it. Tap water -no. Please don't use tapwater. Get an RO filter. They're like $125 on amazon. You won't regret it. And you'll have great drinking water all the time.

Nutes that that drop the ph of your soil, are nutes to stay away from. The micro biology in the soil is what's regulating your ph. They sustain their environment how they want it. If you put something in there that kills all that beneficial bacteria and micro biology, then your soil is no longer living. You killed it. Hang on for the ride.

So be mindful of what your putting in your dirt, and don't let the Joe Schmoe hydro bro at the local hydro grow sell you some stupid chemical to drop in your dirt for a 200% bigger yields.

Its just science.
Very helpful. I'll probably get an RO system shortly, for now distilled with a calmag treatment seems like the way to go in my situation
 
Top