Dyna-Gro vs Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur (AK47 Grow)

chuck estevez

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
weedemart said:
thrips are THE PEST you don't want in your garden. mites are jokes, easy to get rid off. Next time try Spinosad, it already saved me. It's 100% natural.
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funny, i find the complete opposite. Pyrethrins take thrips out. Spidermites seem to always come back.
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
both work but spinosad is the way to go against thrips. One application and they won't come back. I used pyrethrin against thrips and it was not as effective as spinosad. mites are easy to kill with pyrethrin.if they come back , you didn't treat everything. Most of the times you'll need to treat them two times in a 7 days interval to kill every mites and eggs.
 
ozric420

ozric420

Active Member
homebrewer said:
Protekt is beneficial too but not essential. Other than that, FP is all you need.

Protekt and foliage pro from start to finish:

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HB..I only grow in hydro, I use DG grow bloom pro-tekt and mag pro.....do you think I could use Protekt and foliage pro only for the whole grow or that's not for hydro ? thanks
 
homebrewer

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
ozric420 said:
HB..I only grow in hydro, I use DG grow bloom pro-tekt and mag pro.....do you think I could use Protekt and foliage pro only for the whole grow or that's not for hydro ? thanks
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Thus far, combos of grow and bloom in hydro for flowering work the best. I do like FP in hydro for veg though.

I'll be running some tests over the next 6 months or so with combos of bloom and foliage pro in hydro for flowering.
 
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indyboarder57

Active Member
Hey HB, just read your post about mixing FP with DG's Bloom formula. Out of curiosity, I would love to pick brain about it. I just switched to DWC about 2 months ago, I am flowering a total of 3 plants under a 400 w HPS, in 5 gal buckets.

So, for my girls flowering, I originally was flowering with FP for the first two weeks of flowering and then I switched to straight bloom ( like an idiot). I actually experienced some Cu lockout, because I was using to much P (from Bloom and MagPro).

After this little hick-up, I have switched back to my tried and true method of just using DG Gro and I am currently testing one 5gal system with just FP from start to finish with some Pro-tek( cut it out after 2nd week of flower.)

So to avoid a similar situation with nute-burn, lock outs etc; what are your rates you have been testing with some far using FP/ Bloom mix for hydro? I have noticed that if I used DG Grow in Hydro, some of my more N hungry plants would yellow, thus why I switched back to FP ( just lighten the dose for lighter feeders). I was thinking 50/50 mix of FP/Bloom. Would love to hear your thoughts.
Cheers everyone.
 
homebrewer

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
indyboarder57 said:
Hey HB, just read your post about mixing FP with DG's Bloom formula. Out of curiosity, I would love to pick brain about it. I just switched to DWC about 2 months ago, I am flowering a total of 3 plants under a 400 w HPS, in 5 gal buckets.

So, for my girls flowering, I originally was flowering with FP for the first two weeks of flowering and then I switched to straight bloom ( like an idiot). I actually experienced some Cu lockout, because I was using to much P (from Bloom and MagPro).

After this little hick-up, I have switched back to my tried and true method of just using DG Gro and I am currently testing one 5gal system with just FP from start to finish with some Pro-tek( cut it out after 2nd week of flower.)

So to avoid a similar situation with nute-burn, lock outs etc; what are your rates you have been testing with some far using FP/ Bloom mix for hydro? I have noticed that if I used DG Grow in Hydro, some of my more N hungry plants would yellow, thus why I switched back to FP ( just lighten the dose for lighter feeders). I was thinking 50/50 mix of FP/Bloom. Would love to hear your thoughts.
Cheers everyone.
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What EC are you currently feeding your flowering plants?
 
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indyboarder57

Active Member
I am currently feeding my Nirvana Northern Lights ( I have two of them). The one that I spoke of, that had Cu lock out from to much P, from Mag-Pro and Bloom only. I am currently feeding now just DG-Grow @ 375-400 ppm, which = .8 EC.She is know in her 6th week. I know this sounds very light. But, this strain, from with my tinkering, is really nute sensitive. After you burn it once, it has a tough time coming back. Thus, I had originally been feeding at about 1.0 EC, with the Bloom and mag-pro only.

The other girl, which is a NL as well, she is 2nd week of flowering. I am just using FP and protek thus far, I am feeding her at about 250ppm = 0.5 EC, and slowly building.
I know each strain has a "threshold" for nutrient uptake/capabilities, I personally think these girls are just sensitive strains. Whereas my Grape God, I can bloom her with about a 1.2 EC ( or 600ppm) at her finishing weeks, with no signs of nute burn or def.

I know I am getting good results, but I always like to play around, and here what others have to say. Thus, why I am curious about your FP and Bloom results. I am gonna start putting bloom in with that 2nd week flowering NL soon, and start tinkering.
Thanks dude.

PS- My friend and I did a pro-mix grow side-by-side(same clones/strains, same pot types, grow area, feeding schedules etc) using his complete AN line (which came out to about $250.00, hydro shops in Hawaii are an arm and a leg), vs my DG quarts( $60, for FP and Silicon). This was an outdoors grow btw. Anywhoo, DG products, my Grape God yielded 22.1% more. +/- 1.2% error estimation.
 
homebrewer

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
indyboarder57 said:
I am currently feeding my Nirvana Northern Lights ( I have two of them). The one that I spoke of, that had Cu lock out from to much P, from Mag-Pro and Bloom only. I am currently feeding now just DG-Grow @ 375-400 ppm, which = .8 EC.She is know in her 6th week. I know this sounds very light. But, this strain, from with my tinkering, is really nute sensitive. After you burn it once, it has a tough time coming back. Thus, I had originally been feeding at about 1.0 EC, with the Bloom and mag-pro only.

The other girl, which is a NL as well, she is 2nd week of flowering. I am just using FP and protek thus far, I am feeding her at about 250ppm = 0.5 EC, and slowly building.
I know each strain has a "threshold" for nutrient uptake/capabilities, I personally think these girls are just sensitive strains. Whereas my Grape God, I can bloom her with about a 1.2 EC ( or 600ppm) at her finishing weeks, with no signs of nute burn or def.

I know I am getting good results, but I always like to play around, and here what others have to say. Thus, why I am curious about your FP and Bloom results. I am gonna start putting bloom in with that 2nd week flowering NL soon, and start tinkering.
Thanks dude.
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In hydro, I never run 'just bloom' as it's always split with some 'grow'.

Your feeding levels seem fine and if you're not using some 'grow' during flowering then that is your issue.

As far as bloom/fp combos, I've not run them yet. Possibly on this next run I'll start playing with it.

PS- My friend and I did a pro-mix grow side-by-side(same clones/strains, same pot types, grow area, feeding schedules etc) using his complete AN line (which came out to about $250.00, hydro shops in Hawaii are an arm and a leg), vs my DG quarts( $60, for FP and Silicon). This was an outdoors grow btw. Anywhoo, DG products, my Grape God yielded 22.1% more. +/- 1.2% error estimation.
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I don't know how controlled one can be outside but that test of yours shows once again that expensive nutes are a total waste of money. I'd put Jacks/Peters and DG up against any food on the market.
 
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indyboarder57

Active Member
Thanks for the info HB. I am keeping tabs on my runs with dwc formulas with FP and Bloom, will let everyone know the results soon. Happy Thanksgiving!
Oh, absolutely right about the "control" aspect, used that termed too loosely.
A hui hou
 
ozric420

ozric420

Active Member
Hello HB.... I have a few questions ... I am mixing tap water with R/O .which will bring my ppm to about 80.... do I need to add Mag Pro to my mix ... and I thought I was suppose to use it in veg and bloom .. or should I only use in bloom only... I have had really no problems until lately with my grows.... the main problem is since about the 2nd week of flower most of my fan leaves have turned yellow. now to be fair ,I did upgrade my HPS from a 600w to 1000w .and I wasn't shore if that had something to do with it, the light is 26 inches above the canopy...my ph starting out is between 5.7 to 6.0 and after a day or to drops into the 4.9 range, in the past I have just added tap water and its brought up the ph to a good range and it still does . I have 2 other grows ,same strain and have had no problems.. same size containers just smaller watt bulbs....I use your formula for dyna grow that I got off one of your other threads ... any suggestions would be great ...thank you for your time....
 
homebrewer

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
ozric420 said:
Hello HB.... I have a few questions ... I am mixing tap water with R/O .which will bring my ppm to about 80.... do I need to add Mag Pro to my mix ... and I thought I was suppose to use it in veg and bloom .. or should I only use in bloom only... I have had really no problems until lately with my grows.... the main problem is since about the 2nd week of flower most of my fan leaves have turned yellow. now to be fair ,I did upgrade my HPS from a 600w to 1000w .and I wasn't shore if that had something to do with it, the light is 26 inches above the canopy...my ph starting out is between 5.7 to 6.0 and after a day or to drops into the 4.9 range, in the past I have just added tap water and its brought up the ph to a good range and it still does . I have 2 other grows ,same strain and have had no problems.. same size containers just smaller watt bulbs....I use your formula for dyna grow that I got off one of your other threads ... any suggestions would be great ...thank you for your time....
Click to expand...
I've been experimenting with cutting out magpro and while I don't see deficiencies, the jury is still out.

In regards to your light upgrade, I can't help you much there. I'd probably tell you to raise those lights up and use more 'grow' formula during flowering. If the plants grow bigger with more watts, consider upping the EC. Do whatever it takes to keep those leaves green and healthy.
 
bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
Hey Homebrewer!
I was taking one aspect of your info and seeing how it relates to mainstream brands and their instructions.

I am referring to your flowering ratio of 1-3-2

I find most brands hard to tweak to those numbers no matter how you work the 2 or 3 main parts that that line uses

Here is what I get with Dyna Gro not including ptotect

dyna grow---grow---7-9-5
dyna grow---bloom--3-12-6


2 part bloom to 1 part grow
13-33-17
1.3-3.3-1.7=


1.04-2.64-1.36


3 parts bloom to 1 part grow
16-45-23
1.6-4.5-2.3=


1.056-2.97-1.52




4 parts bloom to 1 part grow
21-57-29
2.1-5.7-2.9=


1.01-2.74-1.392


GH maxi series cant get very close nor can GH flors 3 part line.


Info on the actual ratios of all the nutrients you use would be cool!
Thanx
 
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