2000yamahar6
Member
Was curious how to find the refrigerant lines when looking for places to mount fans and is it at all possible to use cooling features of fridge to help with temps as the fridge is basically new? Thanks in advanced.
Mini fridge help
- Thread starter 2000yamahar6
- Start date
Spicy8305
Active Member
I've always been curious about this myself, refrigerators seem like they run too cold,but when I was growing snocap/ gdp hybrid(I regret killing this strain off R.I.P purple snow) a few years back. I tried and tried to get "the Frost effect" but the lowest I could go in my tent at the time was 63f which still gave me nice purple hues. In your case I suppose it has a lot to do with using the lighting as a heat source.
Have you given thought into what type of light?
With there constantly being heat though; your fridge will be running all of the time and there may be too much of a strain on the compressor.
As far as locating the refrigerant lines they are usually copper( sometimes aluminium) and coming right off of the compressor on the bottom rear of the ac. The compressor is full of oil too and that shit will spray all over so do it outside or your bathtub. The 2 lines are comprised of the high side (fat one) and the low side (skinny one) you should cut the fat one because while it is high pressure I've noticed that way more oil comes out if you cut the low. Another thing you can do is when you cut , drape a rag over the line to catch what does spray out.
Have you given thought into what type of light?
With there constantly being heat though; your fridge will be running all of the time and there may be too much of a strain on the compressor.
As far as locating the refrigerant lines they are usually copper( sometimes aluminium) and coming right off of the compressor on the bottom rear of the ac. The compressor is full of oil too and that shit will spray all over so do it outside or your bathtub. The 2 lines are comprised of the high side (fat one) and the low side (skinny one) you should cut the fat one because while it is high pressure I've noticed that way more oil comes out if you cut the low. Another thing you can do is when you cut , drape a rag over the line to catch what does spray out.
2000yamahar6
Member
Thanks for the quick reply, i was more thinking since it is a dorm fridge and has no fans to circulate air the lines must go into the sides and or back of the unit in order to cool all of it, i need to cut holes into either back and or bottom to mount fans. I am planning on using cfl bulbs, and would u by chance have a link to the frosting effect u r refering too as i would like to learn more about that. Also it does not have a "cold plate" in the top as the bottom of the freezer portion so a little unsure exactly how it cools the damn thing much less freeses top with plastic trey bottom... Thanks again
Spicy8305
Active Member
If the lines are in the walls you dont have to worry too much about them. Once you drain the refrigerant from the compressor you can just rip through the lines in the side when cutting the holes for the fans. Copper is a really soft metal. Most minis have a coil on the exterior of the rear ( the metal cage looking thing) - this would be the best place to drill for wiring if you plan to keep the fridge operational. I few years ago I got a 4" desktop fan from Walmart for $6-$7 it was pretty powerful ; that may work for you, The main purpose of the fans in most setups are to act as exhaust and intake to relieve negative pressure. But your plants are still going to need some fresh air so you may still want to add a small computer fan to the rear as intake.
Do you happen to know the make/ model of the fridge?
I may be familiar with it and be able to help you more.
Do you happen to know the make/ model of the fridge?
I may be familiar with it and be able to help you more.
Spicy8305
Active Member
The "frost effect" I mentioned was in reference to some purple strains, The cold seems to make it more purple... I dont know if it gives you a higher cbd/ thc levels but I do know that it enhances the colors. I've had some pale looking bud that came off of a GDP plant that I flowered in summer with a temps around 77- 80f in the box.
I'll see if I can find a link to some literature on the subject.
I'll see if I can find a link to some literature on the subject.
2000yamahar6
Member
I have included some pics one with the model and serial numbers and some of the inside with and with out the freezer portion, back and sides.
Attachments
2000yamahar6
Member
Do u think i can plug it in and once it gets cold take a lazer thermometer and check the areas i am interested in cutting into for higher or lower temps from the rest of the inside and out, seems like if a line was there it was cause a deference in temps one way or the other.... Just a thought let me no what u think n. Just fyi i am doing from mobile phone so plz excuse the text like typing.
2000yamahar6
Member
I hope to have enough air flow, i currently have 3 fans, 2 are 120mm fans with a max of 78cfm each, these will be exhaust and for the inlet air i have a modified ps3 intercooler with 4 50 cent sized fans rating 0.12a but not sure cfm on them, this assembly i would like to mount inside the door and have it pulling in air thru tho top holes u use to open door, it sounds good any way but not certain it will work the way i want.
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Shoot my lights just went out, I was going to take you a pic.
I just got the lights and fan working in my flower fridge. LED bulbs and fans with adjustable potentiometers for speed control.
Do NOT drain the AC lines inside, you may breathe that shit in and it will freeze your lungs, also the air is obviously highly compressed and very static un-likey, meaning it could be flammable at times as well.
I have vented enough VW's a/c system to know better. The professional way is to get a vacuum pump and you have to siphon out the refrigerant into a storage tank via the pump. This is the lawful way.
Unfortunately I won't give you advice on doing it unlawfully, that is your choice. I have used some of these methods, so they exist, but please be careful and remember that shit is going into YOUR environment.
That being said, using the onboard cooling could be tough. While humidity may be lowered, obviously there is a big gap from 39-42F and 75F, the difference between the warmest the fridge probably gets and what you ideally want your ambient. For HPS when the lights are on, the cooling would be a knock-out, but when you have lights off, you are going to have problems possibly without a bunch of redundant systems in an already Small space, that it is probably not worth it.
With 150w's of CFL's in the past, I was able to be 3-4 degrees + of ambient with just a passive intake and a single dc 12v 100mm fan as well as a smaller 80mm fan to blow air around inside the cab.
The easiest way to calculate airflow is to measure the cubic feet of your fridge [probably 3.5] and multiply that by 5-6 complete air changovers in the cab per minute. So a way to start would be 3.5cfx 5changes = 18 cfm is required, initially, this should place you a few degrees within ambient outside the cab, without a carbon filter. The filter can also be calculated as to what cfm or back pressure it will require to vent etc.
Then adjust for heat and humidity.
I just got the lights and fan working in my flower fridge. LED bulbs and fans with adjustable potentiometers for speed control.
Do NOT drain the AC lines inside, you may breathe that shit in and it will freeze your lungs, also the air is obviously highly compressed and very static un-likey, meaning it could be flammable at times as well.
I have vented enough VW's a/c system to know better. The professional way is to get a vacuum pump and you have to siphon out the refrigerant into a storage tank via the pump. This is the lawful way.
Unfortunately I won't give you advice on doing it unlawfully, that is your choice. I have used some of these methods, so they exist, but please be careful and remember that shit is going into YOUR environment.
That being said, using the onboard cooling could be tough. While humidity may be lowered, obviously there is a big gap from 39-42F and 75F, the difference between the warmest the fridge probably gets and what you ideally want your ambient. For HPS when the lights are on, the cooling would be a knock-out, but when you have lights off, you are going to have problems possibly without a bunch of redundant systems in an already Small space, that it is probably not worth it.
With 150w's of CFL's in the past, I was able to be 3-4 degrees + of ambient with just a passive intake and a single dc 12v 100mm fan as well as a smaller 80mm fan to blow air around inside the cab.
The easiest way to calculate airflow is to measure the cubic feet of your fridge [probably 3.5] and multiply that by 5-6 complete air changovers in the cab per minute. So a way to start would be 3.5cfx 5changes = 18 cfm is required, initially, this should place you a few degrees within ambient outside the cab, without a carbon filter. The filter can also be calculated as to what cfm or back pressure it will require to vent etc.
Then adjust for heat and humidity.
2000yamahar6
Member
So use full time is out, what about a kegarator(idk if spelled correctly) style thermostat that runs inside the box and only utilizes the fridge componets once it is above x temp then shuts down below y temp? Was thinking this may help if say someone pushes buttons on ac in room that grow box is in, kinda a last resort to keep temps down in a crazy situation.... Just a thought, also have access to vacuum pump for unit and plan to do correctly if done so no environment damage here.
2000yamahar6
Member
Something like this or similar http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002EAL58/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1384524507&sr=8-2&pi=SY200
2000yamahar6
Member
I do see where i could be pissing in the wind as a refrigerator takes heat out and i constantly pulling new heated air in from intake, before it cools off it is pulled out the back if intakes r working correctly. Just trying to find a way to justify killing a good fridge when things are economically challenging.
2000yamahar6
Member
Being flat white on the inside already do i still need to paint or mylar the inside too? If so which is better as i already have flst white paint handy...
Spicy8305
Active Member
"Do NOT drain the AC lines inside, you may breathe that shit in and it will freeze your lungs, also the air is obviously highly compressed and very static un-likey, meaning it could be flammable at times as well." ....
--- haha, that's funny dude, you could hold a lighter to r-134a and it would just blow the flame out, It's never healthy to breath that crap in but it wont freeze your lungs unless you put your freakin mouth right up to the copper.
The compressor on that mini fridge is hermetically sealed, if you were a licensed HVAC tech and not some shade tree v-dub mechanic you would know that too ( plus you are referring to r-12 that hasn't been used in over 20 years). I'm a Professional Engineer by trade and have specialized in mechanical systems for more than 10 years, I'm also a universally licensed HVAC/ Plumbing contractor.
Evacuating refrigerant into the atmosphere is illegal but so is a majority of the stuff that goes on here haha. You could use a vacuum pump but you would need a saddle valve or tap and it still may not work due to the size of the lines.
Spicy8305
Active Member
I believe mylar has better reflective properties but dont feel it's worth it because the fridge is already white on the inside and that works well enough
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Thanks for correcting me. So because other illegal things occur, it is good to poison your environment needlessly? You will never get me to NOT argue that. Sorry.
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Yes, perfectly smooth mylar, has about 3% more reflectivity than white paint. I have never seen perfect mylar, so it is a wash. The fridge color works gloriously, trust me.
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Again, what lights are you thinking about? That will solve alot of this equation. Like I posted earlier, 150watts of CFL was pushing over 100F without ventilation. I maintain my setup @ about 79 with a single 100mm fan @12v's. These small spaces take almost nothing to ventilate them..and they maintain a fairly static level with the insulation as well, another thing to remember.
2000yamahar6
Member
I was going to run hopefully 6 cfl for veg and flower both the wattage i am unsure of as i not sure what i can get locally, i have more than enough fans as earlier posted i have 3 120 mm fans and the mini ps3 intercooler also.By the posts so far i need to remove freon and proceed to building, one last question, if i understand correctly if i move enough air in and out smell will be minimal?thanks again for the assist all. O and what u mean static with the insulation???
Spicy8305
Active Member
personally I dont purge into the air, I have a pump, gauges and recovery tank, plus a recycling unit. Look the dude asked a question and I gave him a few different methods. I grew up a little hippie kid in Berkeley Ca. .... trust me I dont agree with polution either. But dont act all high and mighty when you yourself admitted to unlawfully purging into the environment.