Soil Food Web Gardening with Compost Teas

boblawblah421

Well-Known Member
Love it :clap: Nematode tea sounds interesting. Do you just use native land? This is why I'll be making the switch to living mulch. I'm also starting to read more about AACTs that have a higher F:B ratio. IMO seems like living mulch is the easiest, cheapest, and most effective way when your Mary is big enough. I think a balanced tea is fine for a seedling and clone as they takes what they wants.
Pray Tell Dear boblawblah421,


How does one make a...... "....First I do a nematode/protozoa tea"

DankSwag,
Grow Organically My Friends Grown On!

For my nematode/protozoa tea, I gather a little compost from a few different locations in my pile, as well as a little local soil, also from more than one specific location. This gets thrown in a paint strainer and brewed in my vortex brewer for 12ish hours at around 74-78 degrees F. Apparently, according to Dr. Ingham, omitting any fungal or bacterial food, and brewing in this fashion will yield a tea highest in nematodes and protozoa.

I also throw a little Earth Compound by the company Progress Earth in there too. This product is a little bit of all that which is of utmost dopeness to an organic farmer, as well as nematodes/protozoa/BTI.
 

boblawblah421

Well-Known Member
Also...

From what I have read and seen over the years, MJ as a flower reaps the most benefit from a bacterial based aact.

Root growth, on the other hand, benefits most from a fungal based tea.

Hence the series.

My warriors are introduced first. Just to make sure.

Fungi is next. Get them roots boomin.

Bacterial to follow. Watch big buds a bloomin'.
 

RedCarpetMatches

Well-Known Member
Also...

From what I have read and seen over the years, MJ as a flower reaps the most benefit from a bacterial based aact.

Root growth, on the other hand, benefits most from a fungal based tea.

Hence the series.

My warriors are introduced first. Just to make sure.

Fungi is next. Get them roots boomin.

Bacterial to follow. Watch big buds a bloomin'.
I just finished Teaming with Microbes. From what I read, the plant is in control and she takes what she wants. They're like real women lol.
 

medichronic

Active Member
My ladies love the tea I brew for them..

For a 5 gallon brew:

Start with distilled, rain, or RO water. Chlorine/chloramine will kill the microlife.
1 cup bird or bat guano
1 tbl liquid seaweed
1 tsp unsulphured blackstrap molasses
then brew for 24 hours

next day i add
1 cup earthworm castings
1/2 cup all-purpose 5-5-5 (happy frog organic fert)
1 tsp unsulphured blackstrap molasses
brew for another 24 hours

Foliar spray and soil drench.

If you are making teas with EWC you should have all the fungi and bacteria you need.
so my question is do I filter all the solids out after brew/befor use ?
 

medichronic

Active Member
thanks MO,so I am following the ubove recipe ( starting brew tonight ) and am going to use it on my 32 day old mainlined critical sensi star . the soil is the pre-bagged TGA super soil, I switched to 12/12 2 days ago,,,,,,hows it looking ?
 

Attachments

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
For my nematode/protozoa tea, I gather a little compost from a few different locations in my pile, as well as a little local soil, also from more than one specific location. This gets thrown in a paint strainer and brewed in my vortex brewer for 12ish hours at around 74-78 degrees F. Apparently, according to Dr. Ingham, omitting any fungal or bacterial food, and brewing in this fashion will yield a tea highest in nematodes and protozoa.

I also throw a little Earth Compound by the company Progress Earth in there too. This product is a little bit of all that which is of utmost dopeness to an organic farmer, as well as nematodes/protozoa/BTI.

Boblawblah421,

Hey thanks for bringing me to speed on the importance of having protozoa and nematodes working in my soil eating away and discharging (mineralization) N to my plants for feeding.

So I poked around the CLOUD a little bit and find this little nugget, thought I'd share for it seems really important to keep a proper C:N ratio when it comes to adding compost to established soil, anything above a 20:1 ratio is detrimental to the population of these critters.

The following from:http://www.extension.org/pages/24726/soil-nematodes-in-organic-farming-systems#.UqwHpPRDsXw

Nitrogen mineralization in the soil occurs at a higher rate when bacterial-feeding nematodes are present than when they are absent. The contribution of bacterial-feeding nematodes to soil N supply depends, in part, on the quality and quantity of soil organic matter fueling the system. Net N mineralization from decomposing organic residues takes place when the carbon:nitrogen (C:N) ratio of organic residue is below 20 (that is, 20 parts C to 1 part N). When the C:N ratio is greater than 30, the rate of mineralization decreases because microbes compete for N to meet their nutritional requirements. In this situation, N is immobilized in the microbial biomass. Incorporation of manure, compost, and cover crops with intermediate C:N ratios (ranging from 10 to 18) may stimulate bacterial growth and the abundance of bacterial-feeding nematodes, and increase soil N availability to plants.


DankSwag
 

D619

Well-Known Member
Passive hydro is the method I've been using and decided I'm moving towards organic soils only, with out using any chemical bottled nutes. Substainable type method. I've been reading up on this section and other sources of information on aerated compost tea, just started a brew myself. Seems people are quite impressed with the outcome using this approach as a part of thier method of growing. " feed the soil , not the plant ".

But during my research based on other people's experience, ( not my own, yet ) and reading up on scientific studies, I'm not convinced. Very conflicting information. For example " The Great Compost Tea Debate" between Jeff Gillman and Jeff Lowenfels. A 2-year study by the Rodale Institute and Pennsylvania State University evaluated the use of aerated compost tea." Frank Gouin, agree, adding that even for its nutrient value, compost tea isn't as good as compost itself." Some expert say the reward doesn't outweigh the risk. Some say add mollases, but of course not to much. Some say don't add any sugars at all. E. coli also draws a concern, but seems to be more of a concern with non aerated method of making teas.

"Master Gardener experiment testing various growth promotion/disease prevention products on vegetables. We planted 5 beds with the same varieties of tomatoes, squash, pole beans, and some other things. Each bed contained the same mix of soil and really good compost. Each bed got a different foliar treatment, applied every 3 weeks. We tested 2 organic commercial fertilizers, ACT using a KIS-brand brewer and their compost “tea bags”, aspirin water, and a control bed that got only water spray. The compost tea failed miserably in terms of yield and disease prevention. In fact, the plants were stunted & more diseased than might be expected. I haven’t used the brewer since that season. The winner by a mile — 1 tablet of untreated aspirin, dissolved in 1/2 tsp vinegar, per gallon of water, plus a sticker like yucca extract. Unbelievable increases in yield and disease prevention. I also tried the ACT on my roses, hoping it would reduce blackspot. No such luck."

Then I can read other people's experience who says otherwise. Also read unless you have expensive testing equipment that actually test your teas and what kind of life that actually growing, is a crapshoot.

Im not trying to cause any controversy here, I'm just trying to understand where is all evidence that substantiates all these claims. A" Feed the soil, not the plant " is what works, it's the approach that gets confusing.
Well in 36 hours I will be adding " my tea " and sit and watch. Im starting to think just making my own compost and leaving the brewing part alone, but I guess time will tell. I just seeking truth not trying to create drama. So be nice!

Cheers!
 

D619

Well-Known Member
Compost Tea: Is It Beneficial? - November 2, 2011
Jeff Schalau, Agent, Agriculture & Natural Resources
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, Yavapai County

The use of compost as a soil amendment has been used for centuries to return essential plant nutrients to cultivated soils (i.e. fertilization). Liquid compost extracts have also been used in this manner. Usually, the compost extract or is made by collecting runoff from a compost pile or placing compost in water and allowing it to soak for several days. Today, we refer to the resulting mixture as non-aerated compost tea or “NCT”.


In recent years, aerated compost tea (ACT) has come into popular use. It requires some equipment to maintain an aerobic (oxygenated) environment. While they are marketed as fertilizers, they have more recently been marketed as antimicrobial agents that displace pathogens on the surface of the plant that could cause foliar and fruit disease.


Initially, the popular press and trade journals were quick to sing the praises of ACT using statements like “beautiful blooms”, “delicious fruits and vegetables” and “thick green turf”. The claims also included: “keep garden plants, turf, and crops free of disease” and “provide beneficial organisms”. These claims seemed to have some substance, but are all claims supported by scientific research. In the case ACT, is has shown positive results in the laboratory, but field studies gave less consistent results.


In reviewing the available literature, Dr. Chalker-Scott found only four controlled studies using ACT. One study stated that NCT was more effective at preventing disease than ACT – the anaerobic teas worked better than aerobic teas contrary to claims made in non-scientific literature. Another study looked at the fungal disease called apple scab and found that ACT was not effective at preventing it, and in some cases, appeared to enhance apple scab. A third paper reported mixed results in controlling “damping off” in cucumbers. The fourth study reported the occurrence of human pathogens where ACTs were used. This last finding is particularly worrisome as human pathogens in food supplies continue to be a major public health concern. These findings do little to support claims that ACT prevents plant disease and raise other larger questions.


Another “fly in the ointment” related to compost teas are findings that report excessive nutrients released from compost tea application (NCT and ACT) could cause water pollution. This was the case in six studies reviewed by Dr. Chalker-Scott. Compost applied as a soil amendment and to the soil surface as mulch provides a slow release of nutrients. Conversely, increased levels of nutrients in solution from ACTs and NCTs can contribute to groundwater and/or watershed pollution.


To summarize, plain compost, when used as an amendment or mulch, is most effective at disease suppression and NCTs are also somewhat effective. The use of ACT for disease suppression is not supported by published scientific work. In addition, ACT may contribute to environmental contamination and increase risk of exposure to human pathogens. Given the state of the available science, people should not purchase “compost tea brewers” or ready-made “compost tea”. Instead, they should purchase or build a suitable composting system that allows them to recycle kitchen and garden waste into compost. Making compost is an art, but the process is also very forgiving.


I also hope this article cultivates critical thinking skills among gardeners.
 

Mohican

Well-Known Member
Start a worm bin and a compost pile. The girl I grew in the compost pile is still going strong and never got yellow leaves! For a 100% Sativa that is almost unheard of.








This is her a couple days ago. All of the mains have been harvested (mainlined for 16 mains):








The flowers are finally starting to die:




I also added composted chicken manure to my avocado tree and saw immediate benefits:










Cheers,
Mo
 

boblawblah421

Well-Known Member
Start a worm bin and a compost pile. The girl I grew in the compost pile is still going strong and never got yellow leaves! For a 100% Sativa that is almost unheard of.

This is her a couple days ago. All of the mains have been harvested (mainlined for 16 mains):



The flowers are finally starting to die:




I also added composted chicken manure to my avocado tree and saw immediate benefits:





Cheers,
Mo
Shit all looks bangin Mo.

Is harvesting your tops first a regular thing for you? This is something I have always considered, but never went through with. I'm really leaning towards it this time.
 

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member

  • Passive hydro is the method I've been using and decided I'm moving towards organic soils only, with out using any chemical bottled nutes. Substainable type method.​






Hello D619,

I use passive hydro with organic soil in cloth pots. I get the best of both worlds. Check out my links in my signature to see PHOGS.
Passive Hydroponic Organic Grow System.

DankSwag
 

Herb Man

Well-Known Member
...sounds like your off to a good start. I'd go 50% green grass (keeping bacteria dominate), 25% brown leaf (needed fungi; carbon; helps buffer pH), 25% others....moisten and aerate the compost every 2 weeks, in 6 weeks your good to go! Check out this video, he keeps it simple.

[youtube]a-JqApyMaP4&feature[/youtube]
Simpe is beautiful.

Lovely post.
 

westchef

Well-Known Member
​Great thread everyone! I'm getting ready to start my fist organic grow and was just wondering how you all gauge the amount of tea you need to brew to cover plants you grow.I'll be brewing in 1 or 2 5 gallon buckets so I'm going to assume it's just a matter of eye balling. Run out of tea..brew again and feed the rest at a later time etc.? take care:joint:​
 

SpicySativa

Well-Known Member
If you think you're gonna run short, just dilute it down a little. Or just disperse it all evenly, then chase with water until
they are all properly moist. If I have any extra tea, I just give it to my veggies.
 

ZoBudd

Well-Known Member
I'm reading the book right now. Fascinating really. Right now I'm growing in Roots Organics 707 soil with BioThrive organic nutes.
In prep for my truly organic conversion, I started my vermicompost bin 6 months ago. Loving those red wigglers!

I'll make sure to check back for tips!!!!

Zo
 
Top