Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
When you do a foliar of de. It stains the leaves. The de never comes off. I was concerned it might have clogged the stomata


worm castings, compost, predatory mites, neem meal, will take care of pests in soil. Ladybugs, peppermint foliar or lavender foliar and neem foliar will take care of leaf dwelling pests
 
boblawblah421

boblawblah421

Well-Known Member
hyroot said:
When you do a foliar of de. It stains the leaves. The de never comes off. I was concerned it might have clogged the stomata


worm castings, compost, predatory mites, neem meal, will take care of pests in soil. Ladybugs, peppermint foliar or lavender foliar and neem foliar will take care of leaf dwelling pests
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I use a pinch of DE in my foliars quite often. If used sparingly, and frequently, I feel that the silica/trace mineral/pesticide attributes still come out, but I don't run the risk of suffocating my plant with that film, or dicing up any of my earth worms.
 
foreverflyhi

foreverflyhi

Well-Known Member
I asked about predator mites because im in late flower andl i wont spray DE on my nugs. I do use DE in
some of my IPM sprays. But like i said i want to get into predator mites because i like the idea behind it
 
boblawblah421

boblawblah421

Well-Known Member
foreverflyhi said:
I asked about predator mites because im in late flower andl i wont spray DE on my nugs. I do use DE in
some of my IPM sprays. But like i said i want to get into predator mites because i like the idea behind it
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I've thought about predatory mites a few times, but never made the purchase.

If you are concerned later on in flower I'd say predatory mites are your best bet. I forget which place it is, but one of the sites that sells them has a good deal on a blend of three of the seemingly most effective predators. Personally, I'd go with that blend of three.
 
RedCarpetMatches

RedCarpetMatches

Well-Known Member
Okay you dirty soil heads,
I've been currently running with straight coco and teas. I'm getting average results...nothing bad or special. My average being Hyroot's record breaker :P Anyway, I've been doing some moist dirtball and crumbling tests. Ingredients being several commercial composts, EWC, coco, 1/4"-1/2" lava rock. Here's what I came up with out of a dozen solo cup mixes:
1/3 x compost (equal parts Black Gold, EWC, and Coast of Maine lobster compost)
< 1/2 x rinsed coco
1/4 x lava rock
Amendments/cu ft:
1/4 cup kelp, alfalfa, crab shell, neem cake
1/2 cup dolo lime (bad math)

I'm going to just have a 2-3 week cooking time and wanted some opinions on amendments. Anything I should add? Should I cut with another mix? My VC might be ready just in time for planting. I'll be watering with a few AACT, sst, and nute teas. Foilar every week with aloe, coconut water, sst, kelp, etc. Thanks for reading!
 
boblawblah421

boblawblah421

Well-Known Member
It took me a while to kick the coco habit too.

Less is way more.

Until I completely stopped buying the bulk volume of my media, I had no idea what was really going on.

Never again will I purchase a bag of compost, or castings, or coco, or whatever. It's all just fucking dirt. In my opinion it's kind of like eating a mango from walmart in the middle of the winter. You know damn well there has got to be something wrong with that mango. Relocating dirt across borders is the same thing. That poor bag of dirt lost it's chance to be a part of a thriving ecosystem as soon as it was bagged up and put on a truck.
 
N

NightOwlBono

Well-Known Member
My uncle in Alberta bought a couple truck loads of dirt for his garden,he diddent do any research and bought off a farmer getting rid of contaminated dirt.
some industrial weed killer,only grass will grow in the Half he spread it on.and it took like 3 years for the grass to establish.
he figures in 5-10 years the grass will clean the dirt enough to try growing again....

long story short ,buy local but do research
 
RedCarpetMatches

RedCarpetMatches

Well-Known Member
NickNasty said:
Red Carpet You need some minerals. Azomite or glacial rock dust or basalt or look for something local.
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I've been thinking about just relying on kelp, alfalfa, compost, and lava rocks for traces. How much do you really need? I notice my Cal is off the charts compared to Mag. I wonder if it would best be applied via foliar or tea. Would a tea with Epsom salt kill microbes? I'm trying to keep ingredients down if I can.
 
NickNasty

NickNasty

Well-Known Member
Since I started using rock dusts my density and weight to size of bud ratio have increased dramatically so much that I can now fit 8 oz's in a jar that only use to be able to fit 4-5 oz's. I believe minerals are one of the most overlooked and important things missing in most gardens. Your plants don't need a lot to survive but they will be healthier and happier with them then without them.
 
RedCarpetMatches

RedCarpetMatches

Well-Known Member
NickNasty said:
Since I started using rock dusts my density and weight to size of bud ratio have increased dramatically so much that I can now fit 8 oz's in a jar that only use to be able to fit 4-5 oz's. I believe minerals are one of the most overlooked and important things missing in most gardens. Your plants don't need a lot to survive but they will be healthier and happier with them then without them.
Click to expand...
I've been reading up on just Mag...as I have tons of Cal. Rice flour is loaded with it. Thinking about amending my VC with it. I'm sure the wormies would love it.
 
boblawblah421

boblawblah421

Well-Known Member
Yeah I have recently become a fan of using a diverse mineral package in my soil too. Thanks to you awesome people...

Glacial rock dust
Basalt
Calcium Bentonite (acts as a magnet to any soil bound toxins, as well as being a mineral supply)
French Green Clay
Oyster Shell
Diatomaceous Earth
Dolomitic Lime
Expanded Shale
Diatomite Rock
Local dirt!!! (Dig deep under your compost pile for them there yummy local minerals)

And of course stuff like alfalfa, kelp, molasses, coconut, etc.
 
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