chiefsirbong420
Well-Known Member
no nutes at all. soil has been long long long flushed. crystal clear runoff not yellowy at all to indicate nutes.
New setup tell me what you think :D
- Thread starter chiefsirbong420
- Start date
Bakatare666
Well-Known Member
I don't recall him using MG soil, but here is one of my plants at 21 days old, sprouted in MG soil AND Perlite.
MG works if used right.View attachment 2927395
chiefsirbong420
Well-Known Member
it is Mg soil but its been flushed before use and tplant. crystal clear run off no yellow water to indicate nutes 
nevyn
Member
Shit, you guys are really good at this, wow.
chiefsirbong420
Well-Known Member
kk well my girl is only 15 days old from seed(first pop through soil) no nutes are being using at all 133 total wattage of cfls
please do tell me where you see nute burn...
now if im not mistaken nute burn affects the whole growth???? as you can see all the new growth is on top and the internodes are very tight and compact i am not even worried about the bottom leaves and codylons as they are going to fall off but i have no problem with that as long as the new growth is healthy (as it is) i have no problem :d
chiefsirbong420
Well-Known Member
who is OP??????? but i did not use any nutes at all yet. i just watered today so most likely my next watering im going to give her a lil shot of nutes but not alot ~~~!!!!!!
I've said this for years - but too many try & add "just a bit more nutes" to it & shit goes south quick.
Bakatare666
Well-Known Member
chiefsirbong420
Well-Known Member
never heard anybody use it lmao!!!!!! im slowYOU is the "OP" silly.
"OP"= Original Poster. (Your thread)
Bakatare666
Well-Known Member
lol............
nevyn
Member
Mmmmmm, so what is the problem with the bottom leaves looking like that, some guys come onto forums, spew crap, don't back it up with anything and leave dumb shits like me stressing out. It's just cruel
OP means Original Poster, in this case you chiefsirbong420, I hang out on technical forums a lot and this is how we address people who start threads because sometimes we can't see the user name or in my case just to damn lazy to type it out. lol. Oh and thanks for pointing me to this thread OP (hehe) very interesting stuff and helpful too. So you getting a like for that.
OP means Original Poster, in this case you chiefsirbong420, I hang out on technical forums a lot and this is how we address people who start threads because sometimes we can't see the user name or in my case just to damn lazy to type it out. lol. Oh and thanks for pointing me to this thread OP (hehe) very interesting stuff and helpful too. So you getting a like for that.
joe macclennan
Well-Known Member
yup, more is not better when it comes to nutes
nevyn
Member
Bwahahahahaha, now that is the most accurate comment I have seen all day, lol
chiefsirbong420
Well-Known Member
im a new grower so i cant really tell whats going on with the bottom leaves. like i said i am not worried about them because all of the new growth is very healthy so im really not that worried. and no problem figured since your doing CFL and i am to (both new growers) i got a lot of people behind me who have helped me out so i got a lot of info from them and they still help out in here
Bakatare666
Well-Known Member
I think good chance just bad genes.
He mentioned he had problems with other seeds too, and this started out a little disfigured when it was a seedling.
chiefsirbong420
Well-Known Member
the peat moss could've had a problem in the solo cup too for the seedling thats why i tplanted into the soil im currently using
Bakatare666
Well-Known Member
I went back and found your other thread where you said you were using MG.
chiefsirbong420
Well-Known Member
i shouldve posted the links in here... youll see that it started off good and than it was nothign but troubles hahaha!!!! most said the leaves were drying out on the tops so who knows i had to pull her anyway as i already told you the situation hahaI went back and found your other thread where you said you were using MG.
Matt420Aus
Member
The reason for not re-using soil is simple, you can state you re-use it all you want but in reality if your flushing out soil your only using a bi-product of your original mix and adding fillers to it, and while this May give some people great results it In fact is not as guaranteed to provide you with as standardized results. A new mix will contain exactly what you put in it every time, and nothing more, if you research anything about sustainability you will find that soil degradation while amended by adding organic matter is often not a long term solution (as in less standardized results, if you can state that every single one of your crops you did the same exact thing with everything else and nutes, grew the same plant under the same light, you will come back to your soil affecting your overall weight, and while this may be higher on some odd runs it is often based on other factors contributing to a grow, not primarily your soil).
Potted soil is not technically soil at all. It is a close approximation of the real deal comprised of lightweight fillers to aid drainage, and organic matter that provides nutrition and water retention. This substitution is necessary as soil from the garden will become compacted in pots and rot your plants’ roots. Nutrients and organic matter leach out of a pot much faster than they do in the ground or a raised bed. By year’s end what’s left in the pot is primarily filler with very little nutrition if any at all.
Reuse
In the springtime, just before planting:
Replenish depleted potted soil with organic matter such as compost or manure. Add no more than 25% organic matter to 75% old soil. Compost is dense, so using too much can lead to that compaction you are trying to avoid. Vermicompost, aka worm poop, is a lightweight, nutritionally balanced additive (approx. equal (N) nitrogen, (P) phosphorous, and (K) potassium) that I prefer for containers. Start a worm bin and make your own!
Add more fillers such as coir (coconut husk fiber), grit, or perlite if the mix feels too heavy.
Slow-release fertilizers are also good additives that won’t weigh down the mix. I always add kelp meal by the handful to help plants deal with the stresses of container life as well as crushed eggshells, which add both calcium and act as grit, and fishmeal for nitrogen and healthy leaf growth.
Diseases can carry over so do use fresh soil with disease-prone crops like tomatoes, or in pots where disease was previously a problem. To avoid spreading disease I practice crop rotation between pots, using the old mix for tough herbs that are better suited to poor soil.
- See more at: http://www.hgtvgardens.com/garden-basics/can-i-reuse-old-potting-soil#sthash.OAQXwSMi.dpuf
cannabis in itself is prone to diseases, some strains in particular, so you can state I'm stupid all you want but most people I presume would prefer to have standardized results and prevent a level of disease retention entirely. I'm sure if you completely flush your mix and leave it composting for a month before reuse as is advisable your soil will be sufficiently effective, but if you were growing on a commercial scale or doing a perpetual system within a small space that might not be an option
Potted soil is not technically soil at all. It is a close approximation of the real deal comprised of lightweight fillers to aid drainage, and organic matter that provides nutrition and water retention. This substitution is necessary as soil from the garden will become compacted in pots and rot your plants’ roots. Nutrients and organic matter leach out of a pot much faster than they do in the ground or a raised bed. By year’s end what’s left in the pot is primarily filler with very little nutrition if any at all.
Reuse
In the springtime, just before planting:
Replenish depleted potted soil with organic matter such as compost or manure. Add no more than 25% organic matter to 75% old soil. Compost is dense, so using too much can lead to that compaction you are trying to avoid. Vermicompost, aka worm poop, is a lightweight, nutritionally balanced additive (approx. equal (N) nitrogen, (P) phosphorous, and (K) potassium) that I prefer for containers. Start a worm bin and make your own!
Add more fillers such as coir (coconut husk fiber), grit, or perlite if the mix feels too heavy.
Slow-release fertilizers are also good additives that won’t weigh down the mix. I always add kelp meal by the handful to help plants deal with the stresses of container life as well as crushed eggshells, which add both calcium and act as grit, and fishmeal for nitrogen and healthy leaf growth.
Diseases can carry over so do use fresh soil with disease-prone crops like tomatoes, or in pots where disease was previously a problem. To avoid spreading disease I practice crop rotation between pots, using the old mix for tough herbs that are better suited to poor soil.
- See more at: http://www.hgtvgardens.com/garden-basics/can-i-reuse-old-potting-soil#sthash.OAQXwSMi.dpuf
cannabis in itself is prone to diseases, some strains in particular, so you can state I'm stupid all you want but most people I presume would prefer to have standardized results and prevent a level of disease retention entirely. I'm sure if you completely flush your mix and leave it composting for a month before reuse as is advisable your soil will be sufficiently effective, but if you were growing on a commercial scale or doing a perpetual system within a small space that might not be an option