World Of Hempy
- Thread starter Moebius
- Start date
hey guys i have a question for yall experienced gandalf ass marijuana growin ass mofos! im currently using botanicares CNS17 line in a 60/40 coco /perlite mix. 5gal buckets atm HEMPY style of course.. my question: my plants look all right, but I have noticed lately that my runoff when I water is good PPM-wise but the PH of the runoff is around 5.4-5.0, the nutrient solution that I am watering with is PH'd to ~5.9-6.0 everytime, is this normal or should i be worried? could this be caused by salt buildup maybe? the roots just hit the res a week or so ago so maybe the res water was stagnant and PH changed? this last feeding was after a RO flush PHd to ~6.0 then the feeding was 5.9. runoff 5.4-5.0. any suggestions? keep on growing!
Edit: typo
Edit: typo
Nizza
Well-Known Member
what kind of coco?
lots of coco needs to be pre-rinsed, charged, and buffered before using
also you could submerge the reservoir of your hempy to help clear up any locked away sallts in the res of your hempys. id do this just for an hour or so and then let it dry for next watering. as you go the roots should "fix" themselves if this is the problem but it sounds like a coco issue. Someone with straight perlite wouldn't run into that, the ppm's would change too.
lots of coco needs to be pre-rinsed, charged, and buffered before using
also you could submerge the reservoir of your hempy to help clear up any locked away sallts in the res of your hempys. id do this just for an hour or so and then let it dry for next watering. as you go the roots should "fix" themselves if this is the problem but it sounds like a coco issue. Someone with straight perlite wouldn't run into that, the ppm's would change too.
this is the coco: http://elevationorganics.com/index.php/products/altitude but instead of the growstones they sub perlite.. i rinsed it well before i used it, what do you mean by charged and buffered? cal mag rinse and ph it?
so by submerging the res you just mean put it in just straight RO above the hole line so everything diffuses into the water? sorry for the newb questions. first grow for awhile.
so by submerging the res you just mean put it in just straight RO above the hole line so everything diffuses into the water? sorry for the newb questions. first grow for awhile.
Nizza
Well-Known Member
okay so that bag says its triple cleaned, but nothing about buffering/cal-mag charging
this is what you do before planting (if untreated coco you would soak in around 3x water volume to coco in 5.0 ph for 3 days if not pre-rinsed . after the ph stops changing you swap then follow charging steps)
-submerge coco in water, add 1/4 recommended dosage of cal-mag
-ph down it to 5.4, wait a day
-check ph, if it rises , lower it, this means you have to "buffer" the coco
-get it to stabilize at 5.8 in the cal-mag water
-drain and squeeze out the coco, it is ready for planting
-I also charge the coco with 1/4-1/8 dose nutrient feed instead of using nutrients in the beginning ( just so i know there's something there, i know tap water has nutes)
but yeah if you were worried about excess salts in the res because of stagnant water i would just rinse it good how i said or whatever, doesn't have to be R/O in fact that may shock/disturb any beneficials that would be taking care of any stagnant issues. if used straight so if i were you id do it with tap water if you use that or r/o water with 1/8-1/4 nutrient dose
if all else fails there's the root rot cure
smell it, if it smells yucky, it is yucky. it may help to saturate it a little if very dry
also wanted to point out see how it says "inland india"?
this means there are less salts on the coco, because for the most part, coco is growing next to the ocean and thus the high salinity.
that stuff seems legit, next time i'd definately go perlite reservoir or do some aero-clone transplants to reduce the chance of rot in the res
this is what you do before planting (if untreated coco you would soak in around 3x water volume to coco in 5.0 ph for 3 days if not pre-rinsed . after the ph stops changing you swap then follow charging steps)
-submerge coco in water, add 1/4 recommended dosage of cal-mag
-ph down it to 5.4, wait a day
-check ph, if it rises , lower it, this means you have to "buffer" the coco
-get it to stabilize at 5.8 in the cal-mag water
-drain and squeeze out the coco, it is ready for planting
-I also charge the coco with 1/4-1/8 dose nutrient feed instead of using nutrients in the beginning ( just so i know there's something there, i know tap water has nutes)
but yeah if you were worried about excess salts in the res because of stagnant water i would just rinse it good how i said or whatever, doesn't have to be R/O in fact that may shock/disturb any beneficials that would be taking care of any stagnant issues. if used straight so if i were you id do it with tap water if you use that or r/o water with 1/8-1/4 nutrient dose
if all else fails there's the root rot cure
smell it, if it smells yucky, it is yucky. it may help to saturate it a little if very dry
also wanted to point out see how it says "inland india"?
this means there are less salts on the coco, because for the most part, coco is growing next to the ocean and thus the high salinity.
that stuff seems legit, next time i'd definately go perlite reservoir or do some aero-clone transplants to reduce the chance of rot in the res
Nizza
Well-Known Member
here's the aerocloner i made!!
wicked happy with it, showing roots with my big bud cuts in 5 days, not bad!!
thinking about adding dyna gro KLN and pro-tekt to the water after the res change, what do you guys think?
also curious , how long do ya'll let the roots grow before tranplanting ?
thanks!!
wicked happy with it, showing roots with my big bud cuts in 5 days, not bad!!
thinking about adding dyna gro KLN and pro-tekt to the water after the res change, what do you guys think?
also curious , how long do ya'll let the roots grow before tranplanting ?
thanks!!
sky rocket
Well-Known Member
what medium are you going to transplant your plants to
FuckJeffGoldbloom
Well-Known Member
New pics up check it out..
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/731275-fjgs-hempy-main-lined-grow-30.html
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/731275-fjgs-hempy-main-lined-grow-30.html
sky rocket
Well-Known Member
I personally would let it get to 3 to 6 inches of roots. Are you going straight to 12/12 once you transplant them?
sky rocket
Well-Known Member
i have done in the past. Once my clones establish a good enough length in roots I give them a light dose of nutes 200-400 ppm.
Nizza
Well-Known Member
cool, i think what i'm going to do is plant half of the clones and root prune the other half for an additional week or two, this should help me figure out the funding situation as i have a lot of soil and a huge compost pile but the pile is frozen so i'm thinking of just trying some soil hempy's
one thing i think about with soil hempys, is it the ph of soil you want if you cut it with 30-50% perlite? I'd love to just put a little lime in there and not worry about ph, and have the reservoir there in the little pots.
pH is very important imo and i kind of dont understand how you estimate proper pH when mixing soil with soilless additives
one thing i think about with soil hempys, is it the ph of soil you want if you cut it with 30-50% perlite? I'd love to just put a little lime in there and not worry about ph, and have the reservoir there in the little pots.
pH is very important imo and i kind of dont understand how you estimate proper pH when mixing soil with soilless additives
HGK420
Well-Known Member
This is the part that got me
take from the hot shot strip package,
"Precautionary statements: hazards To humans And domestic animals.Caution: do not get in mouth. Harmful if swallowed. After prolongedstorage, a small amount Of liquid may form on strip. Do not get liquidin eyes. Wash hands thoroughly with soap And water after handling strip.Do not use in hospitals or clinic rooms, such as patient rooms, wards,nurseries, operating or emergency areas. Do not use in kitchens,restaurants or areas where food is prepared or served. Not To be takeninternally by humans or animals. First aid: if on skin or clothing: takeoff contaminated clothing. Rinse skin immediately with plenty Of waterfor 15-20 minutes. Remove contact lenses, if present, after the first 5minutes, then continue rinsing eye. Call a poison control center ordoctor for treatment advice. If swallowed: call a poison control centeror doctor immediately for treatment advice. Have person sip a glass ofwater, if able To swallow. Do not induce vomiting unless told To do soby a poison control center or doctor. Do not give anything by mouth toan unconscious person. Have product or label with you when calling apoison control center or doctor or going for treatment. In case ofemergency, call 1-800-917-5431."
I'm personally a fan of AVID but id never use one of these bad devils. avid is ez. use it early, use it light, give it time to go away and it does the trick. the hotshots just seem like too much exposure is needed, I've heard of people leaving them in the flower room all the time....
also a lot of us do this medically, including myself, so that whole no hospital and no patient rooms thing kinda scared me
papanikolau
Member
I have seedling in solo cup on day 10.Plan to flower it at day 33 in 3gal Hempy. But buffer day from 17to33 should i use 1gallon hempy or usual 1gal container?
If hempy, 2inch pure perlite at the bottom and im good to go for second transplant?
Which will have faster veg how do you think?
I can't go straight to final 3gal hempy because of different g.room space issues...
If hempy, 2inch pure perlite at the bottom and im good to go for second transplant?
Which will have faster veg how do you think?
I can't go straight to final 3gal hempy because of different g.room space issues...
Javadog
Well-Known Member
I think that the problem with using Hot Shots with the rooms
listed and highlighted above is that these are rooms in which
people are consistently present.
If you are not exposed to the strip beyond the recommended
period of exposure, then you will not be exposed.
As to any potential residue, the lab report settles that matter.
....but I will get Avid too. I will try every/any thing. :0)
JD
listed and highlighted above is that these are rooms in which
people are consistently present.
If you are not exposed to the strip beyond the recommended
period of exposure, then you will not be exposed.
As to any potential residue, the lab report settles that matter.
....but I will get Avid too. I will try every/any thing. :0)
JD
Nizza
Well-Known Member
perlite definately. people like the coarse stuff ! not the easiest to clean but doesn't give you a lot of the issues that the coco does..
yeah i'd do the regular pot until transplant just because you are forced to flower right when you transplant again and you get 2" more of reservoir. I'd do a coco drip setup or something like that , i don't really know what you plan to do as the medium
Nizza
Well-Known Member
java dog, i dont know if it is the spinosad in it, or the some sort of soap that they include, but i do a heavy spraying of this and it always takes care of all of my problems (except earwigs ! 
)
i use this http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-252-Captain-Jacks-Concentrate/dp/B001VJBYMC in conjunction with this http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-097-Turbo-Spreader-Sticker/dp/B000PKTPP6/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1387313077&sr=1-1&keywords=spreader+sticker+bonide to emulsify
i first water, then warm grow room to 90f, shut off all lights and ventilation. take plants out 1 by 1 and mist with plain water.
once i get them all out i make sure the foliage gets another mist. this i believe slows water intake through the leaves, allowing a long dosage. i believe the heating of the grow room excites the bugs (didn't learn this anywhere it's my belief) I feel the colder it is the more chance of dormant bugs.
Once the mist is taken in, I now spray with the solution everywhere. I use a 360deg spray bottle so i can spray under the leaves with less hassle. I start by picking up each plant, spraying underneath the foliage, then wiping off the bucket, and after all the pots are sprayed underneath, i do a once over across the tops. you may want to do this outside or over plastic.
so now I vacuum, and clean every square inch of the grow room with a mild bleach soluton (drop of soap to emulsify)
i clean and take apart all fans, filters,and even spray some spinosad inside of my surge protector outlet (warm hangout) and any extension cords are wiped. I mean 100% clean
it could be cause i clean it so nice but this really works
by the time i finish cleaning i do a second application, thoroughly letting it soak in.
I time all this out to be at the end of the day so when i put things back it's lights out
I re-apply the spinosad 1 week later, and then 2 weeks after that
only problems i get is when i get new soil from the store! prevention is key, make sure any buddies aren't smuggling in bugs from their grows!
)i use this http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-252-Captain-Jacks-Concentrate/dp/B001VJBYMC in conjunction with this http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-097-Turbo-Spreader-Sticker/dp/B000PKTPP6/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1387313077&sr=1-1&keywords=spreader+sticker+bonide to emulsify
i first water, then warm grow room to 90f, shut off all lights and ventilation. take plants out 1 by 1 and mist with plain water.
once i get them all out i make sure the foliage gets another mist. this i believe slows water intake through the leaves, allowing a long dosage. i believe the heating of the grow room excites the bugs (didn't learn this anywhere it's my belief) I feel the colder it is the more chance of dormant bugs.
Once the mist is taken in, I now spray with the solution everywhere. I use a 360deg spray bottle so i can spray under the leaves with less hassle. I start by picking up each plant, spraying underneath the foliage, then wiping off the bucket, and after all the pots are sprayed underneath, i do a once over across the tops. you may want to do this outside or over plastic.
so now I vacuum, and clean every square inch of the grow room with a mild bleach soluton (drop of soap to emulsify)
i clean and take apart all fans, filters,and even spray some spinosad inside of my surge protector outlet (warm hangout) and any extension cords are wiped. I mean 100% clean
it could be cause i clean it so nice but this really works
by the time i finish cleaning i do a second application, thoroughly letting it soak in.
I time all this out to be at the end of the day so when i put things back it's lights out
I re-apply the spinosad 1 week later, and then 2 weeks after that
only problems i get is when i get new soil from the store! prevention is key, make sure any buddies aren't smuggling in bugs from their grows!
Javadog
Well-Known Member
I love the tips Niz. Thanks.
The man-cave will never be that clean....but I do try. :0)
I have also enjoyed spinosad
http://www.amazon.com/Monterey-Spinosad-Organic-Garden-Insect/dp/B000BWY3OQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1387314853&sr=1-2&keywords=spinosad
I also like to use a Neem (Fertilome Triple Action Plus) for my
plants when they are in Veg.
Onward and upward,
JD
The man-cave will never be that clean....but I do try. :0)
I have also enjoyed spinosad
http://www.amazon.com/Monterey-Spinosad-Organic-Garden-Insect/dp/B000BWY3OQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1387314853&sr=1-2&keywords=spinosad
I also like to use a Neem (Fertilome Triple Action Plus) for my
plants when they are in Veg.
Onward and upward,
JD