Dirty Jerz
Well-Known Member
Which do you use and why?
Dyna-gro, Grow vs Foliage Pro
- Thread starter Dirty Jerz
- Start date
Malevolence
New Member
I use grow simply because when I first started with DG I thought FP was only for foliar feeding. I stick with grow because veg is easy, and grow provides all the base nutes needed for DWC.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Say what? That's a pretty dumb call on your part, son. If you'd read the label it has directions for foliar and soil/hydro applications. Hmmmmmm, suggests you don't own a bottle of Dyna-Gro foods.
"Veg is easy", eh? What in the hell does that mean? For starts, until you show us some pictures, folks consider you a poser with nothing more than a big potty mouth that doesn't know shit from Shinola.
But you're wrong again, both FP and Grow contain all 16 essential elements. Pretty much the same salts, just in a different amount to get either the 9-3-6 or the 7-9-5. Get your facts straight.
Homebrewer did a test with both and found FP yielded 10% more (using clones )when used start to finish. He did an excellent, carefully scripted journal at Riddle3m.
Folks, stick to FP. It has a higher ratio of nitrate N to ammonical which will be better for water culture.
I'd stick with Jack's if you're using a decent potting soil. By using Dyna-Gro which has it all you might be creating a condition where one or more elements "is over the top". For example, say your soil contains a good amount of calcium. You use Dyna-Gro which contains Ca and you may be giving it too much.
Uncle Ben
Hazydat620
Well-Known Member
Your pretty much a asshole that thinks he knows everything there is to know about growing, get a life instead of insulting someone for their opinion douche
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Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Suggests you didn't search too hard. Being a noob, the first thing you should do is to learn how to use the SEARCH feature.
UB
Malevolence
New Member
I believe HB claims better results with FP throughout the entire grow, instead of Grow/Bloom in soil and soil-less in the 'Dynagro is underrated as fuck' thread around here. He is pretty much the only one I have heard of that has tested both with controlled clones in hydro and soil / soil-less. In hydro he claims better results with grow veg, and then a 50/50 grow/bloom blend.
I have had stellar results with Grow during veg in a deep water culture system; still trying to figure out what is best for bloom in DWC, I am going to try the 50/50 blend this grow (changing res to bloom feed in 5 days).
Dont worry about uncle bitch, 99% of his posts are useless troll trash taking up space in a database somewhere.
I have had stellar results with Grow during veg in a deep water culture system; still trying to figure out what is best for bloom in DWC, I am going to try the 50/50 blend this grow (changing res to bloom feed in 5 days).
Dont worry about uncle bitch, 99% of his posts are useless troll trash taking up space in a database somewhere.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Leaves.
Most any veteran gardener understands that bloom foods induce premature leaf drop, consequently lower yields. They usually learn the hard way.
Malevolence
New Member
No premature leaf drop, DG has plenty of N for hydro.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
So what is best for flowering?
kinddiesel
Well-Known Member
I have been dicking around. for years. changing fertilizers. and I mix my own to get the best number to get the biggest yield. I have tried it all . I suggest a 10 10 10 cheap fertilizer. and mix phosphate heavy nutrient into it , get a number around . 10 30 10 . it works best for me. and less then the leaves discolor to early any more you burn the plant or again change the color of the plant. just need to know what feeding cart to push the ppm harder, im done buying that 100 dollar bottle and getting worse results then nutrient I can buy for 7 bucks,
rekoj0916
Well-Known Member
I've recently switched to Grow from gh 3 part and have to agree...I left for 5 days without pH being an issue in my bubble buckets. GH I would've been screwed after around 3 days.
Might just use GH for small plants or something so they don't just gather dust on the shelves..I'll be inducing flower anywhere from 1-2 weeks from now, but I'll definitely give the 50/50 blend a shot and see what it is like. I used Lucas formula before and the results were good, nothing amazing but definitely solid.
Obviously off topic here but quick question, with Dynagro is cal-mag going to be needed (tap water at 30-60ppm)? I've only done one res change and aren't sure if I should be supplementing it but since I left town I added it to be safe...Also any ideas on magpro? I'm a bit confused as to if its a bloom booster like liquid koolbloom or what it is.
Thanks for the assistance.
You shouldn't need cal/mag with Dynagro....plenty in it.
rekoj0916
Well-Known Member
Awesome, thanks.
Malevolence
New Member
I have to use cal/mag with 110ppm water. Magpro doesn't have cal so I would suggest something else like botanicare cal/mag+
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Interesting considering high P foods induce micro deficiencies and promote stretching. If it works for you, more power to ya!
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
The calcium carbonate in your tap water may be interfering with the uptake of the Ca in your plant food. I use RO and additional calcium beyond what the DG base supplies is absolutely NOT needed
Malevolence
New Member
Actually I think this time it's the leaves touching each other and sweating causing a film of water and bleaching the leaf. Looks like a deficiency under HPS.