SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member From back east
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  • BecauseIgotHigh
    Can you also provide me the other two colour links as well? Not listed on the description in digikeys. I know the first link is for the 3000K.
    SupraSPL
    Yes the link I posted is for the 3000K, middle bin (best bin currently available unless you can buy 100.)
    BecauseIgotHigh
    Sorry to bother you again, im getting into led and want to know more before I start building.
    The CXA3070, are we able to choose the spectrum on the site?
    BecauseIgotHigh
    I'm not really sure about the price, just asking since the CXA are out of stock. Isn't it a 50W chip?
    Getting the chip as a sample, will it be good though?
    SupraSPL
    It seems like they are about 100 lumens/W in warm white which is not bad but what is the price? Also they are only 10 Watters. The 3000K CXA3070 makes 120lm/W for $0.82/W and they are trustworthy so that is tough to beat.
    nestor
    Thanks for the reply. I'm in the process of switching an old mother cabinet I made into a micro box. The idea I'm toying with is putting a plug on the back of the cabinet like you would find on a computer power supply. I plan on having three drivers/COBs and would like to wire all 3 to said female plug. I have room at the top of the box for all the electronics and having a single point of entry and the ability to remove the power cord would make it easier to move around if need be. just not sure if it would be the safest route to go. I was also thinking of adding in a switch to the drivers (2 drivers for 3000k and 1 driver for 5000k), just in case 180w turns out to be overkill in 1.5ft deep x 2.5ft wide x by 2.5ft height. I guess, yeah, the question really comes down to safety and feasibility.
    SupraSPL
    Hi Nestor, I tend to avoid giving much AC advice unless it is asked for because the way I do it aimed at being as cheap as possible because I have hundreds of connections and I want interchangeability for my drivers and circuits. If you only have a few drivers you can use a separate plug for each one and plug them all into a power strip. If you have a large amount you can use insulated terminal strips, these are the ones I use and they are good for at least 300V. I link them together with jumpers and use one strip for neutral and one strip for hot. I use slide connectors rather than switches (because they are cheap and offer interchangeability). You could switch the hot side of the AC or simply unplug it.
    http://www.rollitup.org/attachments/led-other-lighting/2995924d1392517407-seeking-help-building-custom-designed-driver-board-hdr.jpg
    nestor
    Hi, I've been reading through your DIY cxa thread. I think I have a pretty solid grasp on the DC side of connecting everything together, my question is about connecting the driver to the AC source. Is there a kind of panel/splitter that allows an array of drivers to be connected to the same AC plug? Or is each driver given its own plug? How would a simple switch factor into this, etc? I've looked around at a few DIY threads but I haven't seen a whole lot of explanation or step by step instructions on the AC end of things. Any and all help would be appreciated and if you could include a picture or two when you get time, to say it would be appreciated would be an understatement.
    SupraSPL
    Yes I tested them to find out the range by adding leds to the string. Id the vF is too high or too low, the driver will flash on and off. The range turned out to be about 24-50vF but I suspect will vary slightly from driver to driver.

    Depending on which blues/whites you are using you might get a much lower vF at 650mA. The Luxeon ES M4R and XML2 will be about 2.8 and the XTE will be about 3.1.

    I use some old LEDs on small heatsinks and link them together with slide connectors for testing drivers. That way it is easy to adjust vF and if for some reason the driver is faulty it will blow out the old cheapies rather than a brand new string.

    No worries feel free to ask away. I almost always learn something when answering questions lol.
    N
    Hello. I'm planning my first LED light and saw your recommendations on the FASTTECH 20W LED drivers. I'm thankful for your testing, as I don't put a lot of faith into what the seller writes about them, but there's a few things I really don't understand.
    How did you figure out that they max out at 52vF? By testing? I viewed these drivers earlier and expected the listed 30-36vF to be the only range the driver is accepting. I don't have any way of testing my drivers or LEDs and wonder if it would do any damage if the vF is too low or too high? My only way would be to calculate the total vF from the listed forward current for the LEDs I'm using, which itself isn't very precise. Example, 2.1-2.5 for RED and 3.5-3.8 BLUE.

    I hope you don't mind me asking.
    Z
    Cool I looked at MrFlux's thread. However I lost interest because I got annoyed with the langauge and insults by page 3. Hey we need to talk about these WW LEDs more. I've been using the binned XT-E I mentioned on aquarium aquatic plants, in combination with CW. Aquarium plants have slightly different constraints than growing flowering plants... mainly because its important for plants to out-compete algae. I'd be interested in looking up the bins and perhaps trying the Bridgelux WW. I'm sold on WW but I don't know what ratio of Deep Red would be helpful. The reefLEDlights guy, Bill, read your DIY LED 220w thread and were quite impressed because by scrutinizing the histograms and luminous flux you had come up with pretty much the same theories of its usefulness as we were considering. Still, I'd like to talk about ratios of RB, WW, R, and DR for flowering. Is red really a necessary accessory when you have so much 630nm output in the WW?
    Z
    Hey I signed up for this forum just to pick your brain. I've read your DIY LED 220w thread- twice... before signing up. I own a small aquarium store and I'm using my knowledge of LEDs in aquaculture to design a 1000W HPS equivalent light... that will exceed Black Dog. I think we have the data and technology to do-so. I'd like to ask you a few questions if its convenient for you? Can we email? Call? Also I might have some helpful info on drivers.
    Lemon Sour
    Thanks for all your input in the led forums. I'm trying super hard to learn the ways of the led. So far I know how to make a beast of a light using metal halides combined with leds, but I haven't been able to grow a single blade of grass with leds alone. I know leds have potential, but figuring out the right balance, intensity, and where to buy the wavelengths that are so hard to come by is a different story. Well, keep up the good work.
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