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i just read that page again for shits and giggles. i feel like i just took a graduate class in deceptive marketing lol i could point out literally 100 misleading things on that page easily

:spew: yeah im sure its because people are clamoring to build the next underspec'd light to put him out of business, as opposed to him being straight embarrassed/deceptive about the components he uses

if they told you thsoe are 3590s they lie, they dont even look like cree products at all from that close up of the emitter. even if they are they would have 16 emitters per chip as opposed to a cxb3590 or citi 1212 which have 144 (or other cobs that have 200-700). cobs like the one you pictured...

So youve never used cobs, but your observations (of other peoples grows presumably) tell you they are fraught with these critical problems? not sure if i would put a lot of weight into observations of somebody who has never used a product, especially when it runs contrary to so many others...

rule of thumb is cut current in half, efficiency goes up about 10%

yeah thats doable. looks a lot thinner in the first pic

base of those heatsinks is too thin for cobs in my opinion, esp 1825s

soldering is fun cob holders are funner ;)

i ship wherever

dont mind that. usually ships same day thats the only way you canwire with those drivers should work great not active right now, sorry

just restocked 1212: blue cob 5700k 80 cri 6500k 80 cri

just restocked the blue cobs

same as with any LED it depends how hard you run them 30-35W/SF is doable if you are running the boards 50-75W 35-40W/SF if running them 150W/board

lol sorry OP you got ripped off return it if you can (not laughing at you... rather that statement that 233W replaces 1200W... which is ludicrous)

just looked up my chart, cob should be 51.5V it should almost certainly light up and work fine

sounds like it should work. at 1050 mA they are 51-52V IIRC it will be tight though, depends on the actual voltage of your strips

thats why i always recommend the hlg-48A or -54B as you can expand/run cobs as hard as you like without your old driver becoming a doorstop

400 is good for g/sf but needs to be applied uniformly. lollipopping a must as your zone isnt very deep

in most cases water cooling is a wash simple things like: -using 240V on the driver -passive cooling on heatsinks -subbing more efficient chips than CXB for the same price would be ultimately more reliable, efficient, cost effective, and easier to build

tons of 95-97 cri cob choices out there ive got some customers in the stage lighting biz