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a real 300W light - almost a 3x3 the "300W" light you linked, maybe a 1.5 x1.5 or 2x2

understanding fundamentals saves you shocks down the road! ill try to dig up some better links later on

they most certainly need to be in parallel heres some good resources https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Series_and_parallel_circuits https://www.rollitup.org/t/matching-drivers-and-cobs.883866/

yeah op can do research some of those bulbs necessitate pulling ballasts and applying 120V ac directly

holler when youre ready ill figure out a way to hook you up with chips because...science

1000bulbs.com has 5 footers ive literally never seen a 5' tube in my life

123 lm/W https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-32-Watt-Equivalent-T8-LED-Light-Bulb-Daylight-4-ft-10-Pack-472910/303040479

yet i still found time to answer your question....

should do you right. heres what that 9 cob/3 driver rig can do on its own. those are actually older citi 1825 gen5s in that pic but they are 3500k 90 cri just like you ordered day 15: day 26: day 60:

the drivers are capable up to about ~53.5V amount of current to each cob is dependent on number of cobs the 185As max out at about 4.2A, so you can do 4 cobs at 1.05A the 120As are just shy of 3A max so 3 cobs on there would be just under 1A each

you could get by with a 120 but imo not worth saving $10 a driver, as opposed to having the ability to run it at 225W/bar later on

yup

depends on the voltage of the load. look at max current on the test report instead of max wattage

^what he said 3 cob bar | CMH | 3 cob bar | CMH | 3 cob bar would rock a 4x8 doubt youd need 200W a bar, 150W/bar seems more right for that space with the CMHs in there

not to be a jerk but havent we answered this question for you several times over? seems like you ask the same question every week. It might be better to take a few minutes to learn what a lumen is and how it is used as a unit of measure of light output so different lighting technologies could...

you could do it with (2) hlg-120-48A, but the hlg-185-48A is just a few more bucks and gives you the option of maxing out those chips later on every driver i sell is dimmable

imma go solder up some citi gen 7s to report on ;)

they dont give any information whatsoever on actual output or efficiency so its anybody's guess my guess: not any more efficient than HPS so youd need 1000W to replace a 1000W HPS

im probably at or near the lowest out there. ill match price on any in-stock part if given the chance