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So, umm. Looking for a driver for 4x vero 18's, can't find anything less than $20 for a single cob driver or 80$ for a series driver...am I looking wrong or are these good prices? Could someone link me to a driver/drivers that can run 4 vero 18s @ .7A (30v)(20watts) or .7A (120v+)(80watts+)...

Unless you're intentionally trying to heat up your box ( E.G. in a cold climate) then you really can't have too much air flow...unless you're plants are being ripped from the grow box and shredded by the immense wind speed. Granted you may have 'wasted' air flow at a certain point, but I...

Can anyone explain what to look for in drivers? I understand that you need to look for the current you want to run at (E.G. 700mA) and you need to add the voltages you're running in series (E.G 30v+30v=60v). But for input do you just look for anything that's VAC? Does the number not matter...

Wouldn't you need a multiplier for how many times per minute is an acceptable exchange rate. For example, TCF x (3-or4-or5 exchanges per minute) / ( CFM - restrictions ) Where 1 (100%) would be a minimum?

No, not really, but I will leave you be. Could just be an irrational hatred of autos, but I would just scrog a normal strain.

That part confused me.

The large amount of light spilling out every crack and the lack of the carbon filter give it away.

Looks a little yellow in the tips...when in doubt check your soil and water ph.

Heat is heat whether it comes from HID or CFL.

Best to do what others do. Find a way to isolate your grow from the rest of the attic, coat the walls with something reflective, put a 4'' inline fan scrubbing through a filter, ideally you would want to use a HID light, but cfls will do if need be, keep in mind attics are not temperature...

No fans...sounds...hmmm. As far as lighting goes watts are almost completely irrelevant, the reason you want more watts is because they produce more lumens. (so it's a rough measure, since 'watts' are the most approachable measurement)

Ideally you want to be running cool air over your lights, not warmer air from your grow room. Also you get more fine-grain control of your bulb temps, room temps, humidity, co2 if you manage the grow rooms ventilation and the lightings ventilation separately.

TL: DR- It's not ideal, but yes you can.

This is a thread where I am asking a question I don't know....because I am a newbie. How could I possibly contribute to a topic I am clueless on? If you check my posts in the other subforums you will see that I do indeed try to answer others questions in topics where I am informed. You on the...

You should probably change your username, positivity doesn't quite suit you. You take time out of your busy day to post on threads you aren't contributing to, just to act like a douchebag. Last time I checked LEDS are far from figured out, spectrums, efficiency comparisons, assembly...

Thanks, I wasn't sure if they could be adjusted independently or were functions of each other. ^^

Sorries. Your posts really didn't add anything and they were mildly insulting. I know that LEDS can only handle a certain amount of current, I know that it's best to not be on one of the extremes. I know that lower current = greater efficiency and higher = greater light output. The question...

Thanks, this might be the only useful answer. ^^ Curious though, isn't 80 volts stupidly high? Does that driver even run at 80 volts? It says it's 300mA and 40-75volts output? Does that mean you can adjust the drivers voltage? Or does voltage just fluctuate with amperage?

Not really concerned. Would really just like to know more about efficiency and the voltage/amperage relation. I personally hate cfls...I would go back to using my hps before I touched a cfl. #irrationalhatred

Space is going to be a large pc/server tower, will probably only be 1.5sqft~ by 2ft height. So, yea, stupidly small. Was thinking 6x 6watt bulbs, half 2700k, half 4000k.