Things I've learned from my first grow with pics taken -how to tell sex, Difference between light stress bleaching and lack of nutes, how close i can get the light before stress bleaching, under watering, over watering, nute deficiency, nute burn, how to build up a plants nute tolerance, how to...
This was just an experiment, and you can't make new discoveries by following everything everyone else says. And you followed up wasting your time by posting a reply that was a waste of MY time, so I guess we're square. Next time stop on the first page and don't hate on someones post like that...
its adjustable down to 360w,i have it on 400w most of the time at about 6-8 inches from tops depending on temps.
I do set to super lumens mode a few times a day but only for a hour or so.if i run it longer then that my grow room temps climb.and my tops are about 7-9 degrees hotter then room temp.
but i already had my hps set-up before i knew about these bulbs. probably replace once bulb is old with ceramic style. just worried i be retarded and forget its a 400w and set it to 600w out of habit or something
but i do want to switch to a two 400w cdm set-up
i order my foggers and fox farm...
please read form before trying to sound clever
post #37 cdm bulb,
i have light charts for every type of bulb,
but when you go by any lumens light distance chart(ones i can find anyways) they are all lumens
before second set of leaves (third if you count the cotyledons) and put them in a high temp environment till grow tip stops growing then return back to below 83 and first leaves will turn into new tips and hopefully the first tip begins to grow again. timing this what iam trying to figure out...
its nice to have excessive light,
minimum node space was mostly my goal with this grow
i been manipulating some main grow tips to keep all plants same height
plants are all 15-16 inchs with 25-40 nodes and since supper cropped i have more tops then i care to count
know iam wanting to flower...
i know about taking to long i stated that in post #39
the plant is getting much larger then its sisters now and i have manipulated it into a yen-yang shape
just been playing with them.to see how they would grow when 65,000 or more lumens are feeding them
why iam experimenting stated in post...
i get that people dont grow in cups because the larger the pot, the larger the roots, the larger the plant. but my cups are modified to let the roots continue to grow.why would i lie about them being root bound.do you want more pics to understand.
For someone who talks so much about the mistakes I've made, it's obvious you haven't paid very much attention to what I said.
Imma list every thing you're wrong about : My plants aren't yellowing, the hps lighting in the room has a yellow tint to it so it's going to make the plants look yellow...
plants were 5in from 600w bulb(ballast set to super lumens) for 2 1/2 hours before temp hit above 83 degrees at tops(need more a/c or smaller room ...grrr)i also test light heat by holding hand upside down for a min.
with no heat stress signs i have plants tops at 8 inches besides that.
im not trying to be harsh.... just notice
adventures roots dont care about about container size if their not root bound or how much soil their in.just moisture,NPK and pH
I hope i got most of my school of hard knocks out of the way this first crop i have been Experimenting with every limit of problems just to see what the plants would look like mostly light set-up changes to see how close i could get the plant without bleaching or heat stress. record was 5in from...
new fan set-up allows plant tops to be at 8 inches from 600w bulb and stay below 81-82 degrees(around 65,000 lumens according to my light chart) i have no signs of light bleaching stress,plants are watered every 4 hours by flood system, first of six daily watering is 18-18-21 ph lowered to 5-6...