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can't read the thermometer, but you want to shoot for the mid seventies. i've gotten +95% germination using the paper towel method. you might want to grow some bagseed the first time around rather than adding your new seedbank seeds. make your mistakes and learn your lessons with cheap seeds...

plenty of light for one plant.

the sun gives out a max of 10,000 lumens per square foot on a sunny day. you're a little under 9,000 lumens per square foot with your indoor lighting. so, depending on the cloud cover the sun could be a little more or a little less than your lights.

weed does not normally flower with 14/10. it takes 12 hours of continuous darkness a day under normal conditions to start flowering (not sure what happened with your kush). your clones are still vegging and you can change to any light cycle that has less than 12 hours of darkness and they'll be...

not any nft experts hanging around, but is it any more complicated than monitoring ph and adding some ph up if needed??

here you go http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2179604

make sure your intake is near floor level, even if you have to run a little ducting inside the grow room. you may be able to go with a passive intake if your exhaust fan is powerful enough to pull a vacuum. it's always a good idea to try and create a little negative pressure to make doubly...

why the hps lighting in a veg room? much more efficient use of light to replace with more mh's.

either way. i always do a preliminary trim to get almost all of the leaves. you can use the leaves for hash, food or vape.

you can run your ventilation: filter-->fan-->air cooled light -->exhaust. but you may need another fan to exhaust room air and possibly one for input as well.

if you think you can handle the heat then a 600 watt hps/400 watt mh combo light would be ideal. at 600 watts you have 7,600 lumens per square foot (the recommended light is 7,000 - 10,000 lumens per square foot). yield pretty much goes up directly as wattage does so you should be able to get...

as long as you keep the plants centered under the light and you keep the light as close to the plant tops as you can there should be very little difference. a slightly greater percentage of the light the plants use will be reflected @ about 80% efficiency, but probably not enough to matter.

there are two types of portable a/c - one hose and two hose models. if your 10,000 btu portable a/c is a one hose unit then it actually produces a lot less cooling than rated due to the inefficiencies of using room air to cool the compressor. also, check out...

output increases directly with more light, whether or not you are growing many small or a few large plants. everything else even, more smaller plants produce more yield than a few large ones in the same space. that's why people do sog.

are you running hps or mh lights?? i've only seen those light bands on your pics under mh lighting.

check the pics in my signature "diagnose problems" for some hints.

you do not need enhanced co2 if you're growing only one or two plants, the air in the grow room will not have significantly different co2 than outside air. some growers add co2 as this can speed growth if every other major variable is managed correctly. but to make this practical you need...

if your area is dry enough for a swamp cooler for your whole house then it's really cheap and simple to get a portable one for under $100 for your grow room. get one with the capacity to exchange room air every two minutes or quicker and you should be able to cool your incoming air temps down...

as they say; rock, meet hard place. you definitely need the extra light for flowering that size grow area and you definitely need to improve your ventilation. am i correct that you don't have central a/c and are going to have to deal with summer heat soon? the best un-cooled ventilation in...

usually too little water causes drooping while too much water causes curling. they are very different and easy to tell if you've seen both.