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Like the mini-sips, I'm running something similar right now in size. In my larger (original) SIPs I was using Brute totes (which are excellent I might add and they are food grade) where to get a seal around mine I used foam pipe insulation and then I got a nice friction fit between the 2 tubs...

From my understanding, that statement is not accurate. They are not the same thing - the Big 6 has intentionally omitted the iron that TM-7 includes. Sort of a big difference for the OP since they're trying to avoid the iron inputs. It is correct that BAS had the folks at Bioag make it for...

re: the suggestion of TM-7 and that the Fe is an antagonist, you might want to look at 'Big 6' from BuildASoil. It's just a variant they had custom made for them with the iron left out based on their observation that most tests showed customers soils were fine for iron and didn't need more.

I've use a bit of the OneShot for upkeep of moms, little booster to veg/flowering plants, etc. More of a supplement than relying on it as primary source of nutrients. In the NPK it doesn't list any K iirc but it does have kelp in there, so not sure why it doesn't reflect any K value.

I'd rather have my bud get a little too dry (interrupting the cure potentially depending on timing of) than to go moldy in the jars. I'd sacrifice the quality a bit rather than lose the harvest if left with no better choice. I'd also suggest trying the boveda/integra path as that's worked for...

+1 for SIPs just got to build them with a big enough rez. You can also make an external rez to top them off via float valves, etc. I keep going back & forth on whether to run SIPs with a 'cap' or 'lid' versus just leave them open at top and let it be like nature - that top layer then only...

Maybe spray the outside with something that would kill off the mold, i.e. a h202 mist? If it's just wetting the outer surface it shouldn't affect the rootzone/bennies/etc.

Also I believe someone on some thread was claiming they work as a foliar better than a soil drench but I forget where that claim was made & by whom. I've been using as a drench myself but sparingly...

If you have an adequate or high Iron level already that's where the Big-6 may offer an advantage over the TM-7 as it's really just a tweak of the TM-7 recipe that BAS had made for them based on their observations of several soil reports where the iron levels were fine (or high).

See this 'unofficial guide' for SLF-100 => https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/47524dfe-5a2f-41bf-9c49-a501450c8a72/downloads/SLF-100%20UNOFFICIAL%20GUIDE.pdf

SLF100 is supposed to have living bacteria in it IIRC so that may not be a good choice for a sterile system. It may provide some benefits but you may not be getting all the potential it offers if killing things off. If you're after an enzyme product then I'd look at other offerings. fwiw...

I'm quite happy with the setup I've used twice now. Using a 2.5x2.5 tent (I have a Gorilla but in this case you could go cheaper / thinner)) and an AC Infinity 6" fan w/ the newer smart controller and a 6" phresh filter. Just make sure you program the controller correctly - my first time I had...

I'd still paint... resistant alone is just asking for a potential problem you could ward off by being proactive and adding that layer of protection. I'd even suggest using something like Kilz to prime it or just use the Kilz itself as your paint. They have a mold & mildew version even.

My 2c... Knowing what you have excesses of should help you in keeping a close eye for any negative / antagonistic effects, i.e. lockouts; Refer to a 'Mulders Chart' to see the relationships between the elements then keep an eye out for the anticipated effects. There's so damn many variables...

Look at Big6 for your micronutrients without iron or look for supplements of the individual elements, but many of those come as sulphates I believe so that will push your sulphur levels up further. Also I believe I've seen mention that the Big6 and the likes are better as foliars than soil...

I would look to see if they now offer a combo meter with soil probe straight up out of the box; For me I bought my meter and used it for a while (hydro) and then when I finally did need a new probe that's when I went with the soil one. It does look like they have the "plus" model now which...

Also keep in mind proper storage of the probe or you'll be replacing the probes more often than necessary. I was going to chime in with don't go with el'cheapo brands - you get what you pay for in this department it seems. I went BlueLab myself and finally replaced my probe with their soil...

Didn't see anyone else mention to check for surges and other electrical issues beyond just low voltage; Not an electrician but the quality of the power could contribute to issues I believe. I.e. I had a circuit board that kept frying for the humidifier on my furnace and it turns out the dumb ass...

re: the layer you build up using Herc, check out using SLF-100 instead of Hygrozyme. Hygrozyme (some say) will harm the beneficials/living soil where SLF itself is an inoculant. It's what the Nectar folks recommend along with Photosynthesis + as complimenting their line.

I've used the other brand that is listed as 2-2-2 and I can't say I noticed some miraculous change but like you I know it contributes chitin which induces the plants response mechanisms which is beneficial. Seems the type of insect and what they were fed dictates the NPK it has. I'd say it...