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A fucking men brother

It will do the job. Or you could build it yourself for £40. its just a timer and a contactor. you already have another timer, just buy a contactor. I've seen your posts, you're a smart guy. Don't throw your money at these companys. there such fucking rip off merchants. plus its massive, and...

I literally can't believe that people are too lazy to solder a few connections and buy a driver. AP and Greengenes how much do your fixtures retail for? I think its great you guys are providing a solution to the afore mentioned :P Think how much energy we waste as a race on HID growing :P

I don't think its designed to be plug and socket with 1000's of operations.

thanks for taking the time to take her apart, I know what moulded case equipment is like.. the micro switch (green box on bottom left) is actually only rated for 16(2A) - 2A inductive. when you switch on a inverter (ac-dc transformer) it will look like a short circuit for a few micro seconds...

so you take the switched L & N from your timer output and connect that to terminals A1 and A2 in the picture above. Between A1 and A2 is a coil of wire wrapped around an armature, when energized its magnetic field pulls in a set of contacts. which are labelled as L1, L2, L3 in the picture. I...

@GFS Nic Did you open up your bad timer to see what happened? Just wondering what it looked liked internally to drop 100V. glad you sorted it. Get a contactor :p

I suspect that is talking about max inductive switching load being 3A. I would strongly urge you to get a contactor or relay.

Ha, well dude. Top marks for English, I assumed by your typing skills you were british or yankee! anyway. .. (sorry about my poor english) a) if both drivers are faulting in the same way / style it suggests the problem is upstream. b) have you got 220V at your plug socket? c) if you have...

Is it both drivers or just one? I dunno the datasheet but you should be getting (4 * ~36V) 142V output per driver. I would do these things; Is your new socket on the same circuit as the previous socket? If not I would run an extension and double check that the fitting is faulty on both...

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thanks dude, this is a great explanation.

would you be able to verify by the Vf? take the vf of your cob after its warmed up for 10 mins and then compare it to the figures estimated for cxb3590?

Didn't he say he had 4 x cxb ? which would mean 49.8 * .48 = 23.9 * 4 = 96 W e2a. I ony checked because I thought for a minute Id just under powered my light by 50%

3.5 it is. cheers dude.

What would you buy? 4 cobs, 3k or 3.5k? I'll prob go for 2 of each... Maybe I'll just toss a coin heh. thanks dude,

Looking again to the datasheet there is quite a large difference in lumen output between a top bin 4k and a top bin 3k. Are we saying that the CCT trumps lumen output, or vice versa? thanks, UKP

Thanks all, I will see whats available, I like the idea of mixed nuts 2 x 3k 1 x 3.5k 1 x 4k ty ty

thanks bicit, is there really no sense in mixing a 4k in? I looked at the spectrum graph on the datasheet and it shows the 4k giving a big peak in the blue end? Are you saying that the 3k will provide enough blue anyway?

Hello, I will be buying some new chips soon. :D I will be running 4 x 700mA - I take it at this drive current the preferred cob is the cree? Would I get a better spectrum mix from 2 x vero and 2 x cree? is the opinion still that 4 @ 3000K is the best option? or maybe 3 @ 3000 and 1 @...