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Thanks, DemonTrich. I'm running LED if you weren't aware, so I don't need as many cfm's, I'm just circulating the air. Also, I wanted my grow to be as silent as possible, hence the WhisperCeiling fan, but no AC in my room (80+ degree temps in bedroom) plus the heat off the LED's lead to me...

Why is the f'ing sun NOT proof that White light can flower? But okay... https://www.rollitup.org/led-other-lighting/538173-cheapo-diy-chinese-led-grow.html https://www.rollitup.org/led-other-lighting/656542-flowering-cree-bulbs.html Can we stop?

The sun. I win...?

https://www.rollitup.org/led-other-lighting/563118-astir-grow-led-panel-project-31.html#post8102584 I believe the Merkaba layout for LED's is aimed towards achieving better spectral mixing. You have to intelligently place wavelengths and CCT's.

Popcorn900: Have you seen this journal? https://www.rollitup.org/led-other-lighting/580405-plasma-2x-magnum-plus-leds-18.html#post8726794 Yes, he supplements with LED, but plasma can grow plants... It can veg up a f'ckin storm, and flowers rather well. A little supplemental Red (assuming it's...

Heat shouldn't be a problem, the heat sinks are properly sized per the wattage. The multichips are all the same size (30W, 50W, 100W) and yet the floods get bigger per the wattage in order to mitigate the heat. Multichips are fine, imo. Some people don't like them for various reasons. They do...

If you get bleaching/hash tips this round you might wanna super crop the next batch if height is an issue. Lookin' good overall. Keep it up. :leaf:

The reflectors in them seem really cheap to me (ime, they're not even outside the beam angle down at the chip, they let light leak a little behind the reflector, and no idea on their reflectance but I'll assume it's not stellar). The drivers are more than likely cheap, too. And then of course...

+1 on the UFO recommendation. If you wanna splurge maybe a Kessil H150 Magenta. 45W, very compact, should flower an auto quite nicely. GL, HF, stay safe.

The Warm (both types) and Cool White's should have a bit of Green in them. I think you're fine.

I think a massive DIY sticky might be in order. We just need someone to bite the bullet and put together a comprehensive first post (deja vu, has this been done already?). DIY LED panels are actually pretty easy to make, though. It's sort of in the range of, "Well if you have to ask, you might...

Cool. I've been helping a few HVAC guys in my area do furnace installs recently (thinking about getting licensed). Off one of the furnaces we pulled I got a draft inducer blower as scrap. Do you think if I clean that thing up it can push more air past my carbon filter than an 80cfm bathroom fan...

In my tent I've noticed something kinda strange. Popcorn buds that receive light from supplemental side lighting panels are very small, yet frosty. Popcorn buds that don't really see the supplemental panels (almost all light is coming from my over head spot light penetrating the canopy) are...

Yeah, pretty much. I built my own 100W remote phosphor Warm White spot light and chose a 90CRI Intematix lens. I chose 90CRI over 80CRI because it had more Red even though it has less lumens. It's like trying to catch a max stat Pokemon. You can have max health, but that doesn't necessarily...

Yeah, the margin is about as big as their respective "boxes" in the CIE graph I posted. As you can see, a "cold" bin of 3000k (one of the highest lumen outputs of its class within the specified CCT) might very well have a spectrographic analysis that closely resembles the "warmest" 4000k bin...

But the spectral power distribution is different per bin, no?

But then why do LED manufacturers include CIE ranges for each CCT and/or bin? And why does a 90CRI 3000k output less lumens per Watt than an 80CRI 3000k when they're the same manufacturer and series? All I'm saying is I think it's a crap shoot. If it's a Cree XT-E 3000k it's a Cree XT-E 3000k...

The higher the lm/W the less Red, though, right? Chromaticity changes per bin, I thought. I was always looking at the lowest lm/W thinking it was the "warmest."

What parameter(s) are you specifically fishing for when looking at bins, i.e. what's a shitty bin?

Perhaps slowing the shimmer effect down, and decreasing the multiplier of "magnification" would be better for land plants? Sort of like a cloudy day versus an overly sunny one. No clue, just throwing an idea out there. I do, however, like to think that plants might enjoy a flat out sprint for...