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Coco loco? Is that straight Coco coir or is it all ready amended? If straight Coco coir there will be nutrient issues. Major lack off nutrients.

Not until pH of water and soil is known. Remedies are cheap and easy if pH correction needed.

Decrease the humidity to 60% and add a fan. Fan speed should be set so all the leaves should be slow dancing to the fan, not whipping about in a gale. Feed some phos and calcium. Then up pot and keep extra phos and calcium if it's not enough with your current ferts. VPD could slowing calcium and...

Next learn up on pH in your medium, feeds and water. Giving what it's lacking in tissues does not mean it can be readily absorbed if pH is off. It's simple stuff that will have you growing kine bud every grow.

Likely underfeeding. It's confusing to pin point only 1 deficiency when multiple nutrient deficiencies are showing.

https://loudclouds.co/plant-nutrient-deficiency-chart/ These will help.

Oh. They are starting to branch out.

Maybe. But phosphorus deficiency is apparent too.

The last 2 pics are female. You can see the pistil. The first pic no clear sex ID.

No it's not phos deficiency. It's normal. Sometime sprays can damage the pistils and brown em early. The calyxes should grow and envelope the pistils with just the brown tip showing. But look at the yellowing leaves at the bottom. They are telling you what she's hungrier for currently.

There are seeds in those red fruits btw. You can grow it. Takes 5-8 weeks to germinate. Does not like Calcium! Definitely worth it as a garden and house plant.

You say you've got a cola¿ So it's not 1st or second week of flower,right? On the surface just seems like phos hungry. Red leaf stem too? Then definitely phos. Try max or 1/4 less than max if worried about burn.

Something is causing nutrient uptake problems. A couple deficiencies noted. Take a closer look at the others. The brown spots are showing a more severe deficiency. Look for the yellow veins, and uneven green color on the others. Less dark green growth or smaller at the tops ...

Of course it is. And yeah it's common to add some more perlite for drainage.

Your promix and worm casts should be enough for 5-6 weeks btw. If you have time and space get the bigger pots ready a week before transplant. Water innoculate add ferts and put them in the room for a few days to have a good soil temperature, ferts and soil moistened.

It's much too early to feed anything except what's in the soil and 0 0 0 kelp. To control growth put them as close to lights as possible and when they get top heavy add soil to support or repot deep all the way up to the cotyledons. Try feeding if getting lighter green color or around 5-6 weeks...

Assume 100% water soluble. So immediate fast release. Usually insoluble %'s are mentioned for N-P-K. Strange as rock phos usually isnt that strong and usually says % unsoluble (with my ferts anyways) Probably processed in a way to get higher numbers and water soluble phos.

Deficiencies can be from too much ferts too. The dark patches could be too much potassium. The smaller dead brown spot near the leaf tip maybe not enough calcium? And the leaves above have inter veinal chlorosis, yellow. Theres a few things going on.

How old are these seedlings?

Contrary to what you think. Being root bound hastens flowering. Transplanting would encourage more shoot growth but not likely flowering development. The pheno difference is known in some autoflowers. My 2 cents, more phosphorus and restrict light to 12/12 till its seriously flowering.