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https://www.plumbersstock.com/thermo-pan-16013-box-resistant-header.html Got two of these. My door is only 30 inches wide so would it be best to make a vent for the length of the door? I'm guessing I would want to make a vent with roughly the same size overall as the 6 inch duct? I made a...

Check out this little shitty prototype I made lol. It will eventually be thermopan, but I wanted to experiment while I wait for it to get here next week. It may not seem like much air flow, but it exhausts out of the room which is huge for temperatures.

Would you just mold a wider section over the 12 inch boot? How bendable is it?

For a 6 inch exhaust (depending on CFM but let's say 150 which is overkill in a 2x4x6), would a 12 inch wide by 1.75 be enough? I'll keep looking for wider but I can't imagine an application for a slab inlet1 inch high and like 2 and half feet wide rofl.

https://www.omniduct.com/copy-of-slab-duct Here is pretty close. 12 inche wide and under 2 inches in height. I could get in 6 inch diameter. How would you get the duct over those hanging brackets though?

I could just mount the filter on the duct fan inside the tent. However running 6 inch ducting through my crawl space to exhaust it somewhere sounds like a fucking nightmare lol. Also that's a lonnnnggg path for the fan to need to push all of that air through. My fan can push 400 CFM but it would...

Well shit lol. Sooooo slab inlet under the door I suppose...?

So cut a slice of plywood to the size of the door, cut I'm assuming a 6 inch hole for 6 inch ducting, and then add some sort of coupling the hose can go over. Will I need to insulate the plywood somehow or maybe just tape around the edges and run weather stripping around the frame to seal it? I...

I do have an attic access door in my room. I see what you're saying, but it'll require a lot more custom fabrication than the inlet boot under the door idea. I suppose eventually though your idea allows for more overall flow as you can cut the size you need directly into the door. I'm no...

For intake I run both of those rectangle vents open on the left and right. When in flower, I have charcoal filter sheets which block the light but still allow air flow so I probably don't need bends for intake. The exhaust is like the picture but reversed where it goes out to the right toward...

This is my 10th grow I'm past the attempt phase. I have a decent idea what I'm doing. The issue is I moved houses and now have completely new grow conditions to work around. I'm trying to make it work more efficiently, not just work period. This is actually easy mode compared to what I dealt...

I like a good heat rock as much as the next human, but I gotta agree here. 82 is a bit uncomfortable.

Isn't pulling air harder on the fan?

Any ideas for pushing air under the door for now?

I have both vents at the bottom open and the ACI duct fan is inside the tent and pushes it out of the top of the tent. I'm just lucky the driver on the light is removable so it's outside the tent or it would be even hotter.

I'm just trying to figure out how to keep the room cool with the door closed. I can feel the draft under the door from the hallway. I'm guessing trying to force air under would be the best course of action? Its the only place the air in the room can escape. 90% power in flower is going to suck...

I also have my 2 old HLG 100 R Specs that are about 2 years of grow use.

Care to elaborate? It's a SF G4500.

So opening the door makes a dramatic difference. The issue is I won't be able to lightproof outside of the room and I need the room to stay private so I'd prefer the door closed as much as possible. Maybe keep it closed and then turn on the fan on the house HVAC and try to cool it down as much...

So the tent sits in your typical bedroom on the top floor. There is a ceiling AC vent. The door opens into the upstairs hallway. I have a tent with an ACI S6 that exits out of the top of the tent and points toward what would be the crack of the hinge of the door. These are the parameters I'm...