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I dont sorry again just trying to learn

I am actually yeah but they have been busy as of late so during the downtime just trying to learn and double check what I need

Hello all, What is typically needed for a sealed grow room to control temperatures, humidity, etc.? (AKA no air coming in or going out due to using CO2) I have my lights (6x1000w HPS Gavitas), insulation (spray foam, fiberglass, foam board), and almost the panda film up in my 10ft (W) x 15ft...

AKA another wards collect the necessary data and adjust from there. Any way to do this you know without exposing the plants to a potential fast changing environment. Maybe hook everything up and pull in the data without the plants, etc.

Price does not always determine quality. Usually, something can be found that is good at getting the job done that it needs to while also being more affordable. I dont' want $ but prob don't need $$$ so $$ I am ok with.

So you think I would have to exhaust often enough aka not like "15min every couple of hours" that it would waste the CO2? I mean that is a concern of mine. If that is the case what is a good AC you all recommend that will not break the bank and get get the job done in the room I have?

Hello, My grow room is 25ft (L) x 10ft (W) x 9ft (H) = 2250 cubic feet. My room will have CO2 supplementation and only needs to exhaust heat as needed. Otherwise, no exhaust will be happening. I will have 6x1000watt HPS lights which will create almost 21000 BTUs of heat per hour. My goal with...

But I already have 1in of foam board up and the wall temperature is good. Would it hurt if there was a 3/4inch gap between the wall and panda film?

Yeah I was looking at FRP and PVC panels but due to cost compared to panda might just do that later on.

Are you just saying to add a second foam board instead of air? As far as R value goes that would be better but the air itself might help reduce condensation not that I will have trouble with that to begin with.

The 18in Hurrican fans I have (8 of em) need to be drilled into rafters and yeah I can do that from the strip into the rafter.... just the furring strip will need to be wide enough.

The staples at current would just go right into the foam board from the panda as I don't have plywood, OSB, MDF, drywall, etc. up. It wouldn't stay up right? Or, are you saying something different?

How would I take it down than if need be?

I mean if the kanga or roberts tape truly can come off without damaging the insulation or panda film that would be easy Otherwise, I am thinking about building out a frame using furring strips to staple the panda to. The only thing is that the panda would be away from the wall based on however...

Panda is not an insulator though only the foam board so am I missing something?

What problem are you referring to? Your setup sounds almost exactly like mine. What do you recommend I do before I ran into "your problem" whatever that might be. Let me know I am curious. Are saying have an air gap between the panda and foam board? I also think that due to the radiant barrier...

Good questions... for now sine the room is sealed and it is winter out we only want to exhaust as needed to keep it around 85-90 degrees in the room so the added CO2 actually is useful. After winter is over we will go the AC route. I am seriously considering the ferring strips idea... as you...

Interesting thought... do you think it would stick to this and be effective? The panda film is mainly for reflection yes but also to protect the foam board from moisture and the other vapor barrier was to protect the fiberglass as fiberglass has issues with mold. A little overboard? Probably...

Tried searching for backer nails and couldn't find anything. Anyways I did a tape test against the panda film (the black back side has some texture to it so tape sticks really easy) and the gorilla tape ripped the panda and foam board before coming off which is what I want I guess. One...

From what I have read Tuck tape is only in Canada... not sure what is the US equivalent