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I only have a LUX meter. Cant bring myself to lay down $500ish for a top quality par meter. How high did you run the QBs from the canopy? Thanks.

Great work! Did you measure the light you were actually putting down on your plants to get 2+ pound from your 4x4?

http://www.samsung.com/global/business/business-images/led/file/product/lighting/201601/Data_Sheet_LM561B_Plus_Rev.5.0.pdf http://www.samsung.com/global/business/business-images/led/file/product/lighting/201407/Data_Sheet_LM561B_SBSCSD_Rev.002.pdf

So about 10% less efficiency for 1/3rd the price of the real deal?

I'm saying some light goes down to the white panda film, back up to your fixture, reflects back, and is added to your measurement. For grins, all other things being the same, try a non-reflective bottom surface and see if your readings change. :mrgreen:

Your white side panda film will boost your PAR map readings over a non reflective surface. Compare readings with a dull non reflective surface.

As an aside, I checked out a Nextlight Mega at my local grow shop and it was hot to the touch on the back side and showed 55C or more with my heat gun on the back. So they don't mind running their fixtures a bit on the warm side, at least by most DIY standards. Just saying.:mrgreen:

Please share a link to the "other guys" building F and G builds. Thanks.

OK. I was referring to the one mentioned in post #45, HLG-320H-C1050. That's the one I use and like. There is a lot to like using constant current. But there is a HUGE contingent of parallel-only builders out there. And they work fine too!

That is a brute of a light! Well done! And a great bed-a-buds to try it out on. You built that for a 5x5 and shooting for about 30ish watts a sq/ft. I have had great results using "warm" cobs and now strips at that same power level.

BTW that driver would work. I am using the exact same driver with 14 of the same strips (2 of the strips are in parallel). For 292 volts and 840 ma out of the driver. I am not minimizing the dangers of high voltage, but just don't screw with your lights when the power is on. Not that hard...

Did you wire up those strips yet? And do you have possession of the HLG-320H-C1050? And is your strip array about 20"x22"?

Shhhhhhh. It makes many builders happy to mix their own zoomy spectrum. :mrgreen:

You are right. LUX response curve peaked for human eye, BUT take LUX reading times .015 and it will get you a close PAR reading for warm cobs/strips.

My 2 cents worth, save your money. Get a LUX meter to adjust for best height and most uniform coverage. Then use conversion factor if you want a ballpark PAR reading.

And that is why the "ignore button" was was made!

That should work. Remember your driver is capable of 3.9 amps, or 1.3 amps for each series string of 2 strips. Max current is 1.4 amps. The strips could get very hot very fast if you have it on max current right from the start! Start with the driver current turned down!

So anyone getting anxious about "thermal runaway" should see this video. If you build it right, there is little chance of it. And if you still can't sleep at night, then put a fuse in for each cob/panel. Just saying.

You mean in a deceptive way?

65 lumens per watt for white-light cobs? Save your money.