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and clean it off with RO water after each use

no need to buy a whole new one just test to make sure its still accurate and then recalibrate if its off, been using the cheap ones and good ones for like 10+ years and only had to callibrate 2 times. I check every few cycles or if a reading seems weird, my feed is basically the same every cycle...

TBH i have a bluelab one that cost a bunch and the only difference between it and the $15 u find on amazon is durability. I went through like 3 of the cheapos by dropping them in a rez or spilling a ton of water on them, but if u are careful they are fine. Bluelab ones are waterproof and i had...

General hydroponics Maxi-Gro and Maxi-Bloom, honestly u really only need the bloom if u want to get really really simple but its better if u use both Gro for veg and then transition to bloom

no way for me to tell you, haze's generally need 10+ weeks to flower

ive had strains that do this, generally they r sativa dominant i believe, nothing to worry about. Also some sativa strains will continue to produce white pistols even when ripe so its best to check the trichromes.

put them on top of your internet router, if its too warm put some paper between

should only be a problem for first few weeks of flower IMO they they basically stop growing vertically.

nute burn will generally start at the tip and edge of leaves and yellow/burn, those mid leafe rust spots are classic calcium def. Those leaves look like they had very very slight nute burn (see yellowing tips) but the issue is PH.

ya def looks like calcium deficiency. Generally growing in coco you want to keep the PH a bit higher than true hydroponics but lower than soil. True hydro like DWC normally run ph at about 5.8 id recommend u aim for 6ish+. 5.5 is too low and it is likely hurting the plants calcium uptake.

yes, stop burning once real buds are present (like 3-4 weeks into flower) depending on your RH this may be enough but its all situational. The sulfur makes the surface of the plant inhospitable to mold/mildew, but this isnt 100% if you have high RH

looks underfed, nitrogen and magnesium, if you are close to the end it looks fine

as u have seen by the variance in quality a s1 is often times nowhere near as good as the parent. The real GDP is from clone only generally found in norcal, no S1 so no variance, no phenotypes

the real GDP is a clone only strain so....

GDP nearly always will get atleast a little purple, but tends to be less pronounced in warmer rooms.

any soil/coco setup and a simple drip irrigation or flood system would work for 2 weeks at a time easy.

the filtered water will start to increase in PPM. I have no idea on time frame but the membrane is expensive

i dont smoke all the time, just every night and all day on weekends. -Quote from a Seth Rogan movie...

fox tailing isnt always a bad thing, and some strains do it even without heat stress. I had a 50/50 indica/sativa strain do it one time in like week 7-8 of flower with no stress and i just harvested at 9 weeks like i planned and you couldn't even tell on the finished product. If your temps are...

im no expert but i think the RO filter uses most of the water to clean the membrane, so it works, but you end up wearing out the membrane/filter quickly because ur using very high ppm water.