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Heheheh, and to think, looking back on your blueprint for carbon filter v1.0 earlier in the thread :D

+1 for multiple smaller drivers. Its really not that bad to have like, 4 driver boxes for example, and as a small bonus you could easily do a "energy efficient veg" type option by incorporating switches for each driver. also being able to easily remote my drivers saved my ass earlier in the...

IIRC your household globes are more upmarket philips ones? I would expect them to be using "modern" whites with broad peaks, rather than the cheap/oldfashioned way of making white, with blue led + yellow phosphor.

if you want to help it heal i would suggest splinting it up with something that retains moisture (people use moss in the gardening world i believe) with plastic/tape around it for a seal. Whether it will pull through will be obvious, and the worse that could happen is you have to chop 1 bud...

Yep...but that will just be the same blues with more, or less, yellow phosphor coat.

om nom nom nom :hump:

You'll fry your plants with that much blue, unless you put it so far away as to be a woefully inefficient use of electricity. Those lights are intended to penetrate water by a foot or so, for underwater corals.

LMAO, I didnt know diamondbrite had such a good relationship with the canadian health services. But science is science! LOLTROLL

Eeeeee....not concerned about the likely blue+yellow monochromatic (almost) light you'll get?

Personally i use arctic silver 2-part epoxy for the MCPCB/heatsink join. Im pretty sure theres been a thread recently about this, let me wander off and find it!

Ahhhhh.... That makes much more sense. Fascinating as always brother.

Oh... I thought you meant your DIY reflow station would be an "oven" rather than a hot plate.

I have spent ages trying to figure out the pun and still dont get it... :dunce: edit: I get it. Kill me.

Oh yeah, and ive been meaning to ask, whats the advantage of "oven" rather than "plate" style reflow? Won't you be frazzling the lenses or degrading the LED in some way, subjecting bits other than the junction to the heat?

BRB changing my pants :hump: :hump: :hump:

Looks like utter trash... Also apparently a "UV light"..... so if you want to give your plants cancer i guess this would be good! (its not UV)

step-by-step build journal and guide to watercooling yes plz? :P

this is where my lack of knowledge on watercooling shows (and im a gamer too, fail!) Sounds good - You'll probably have to do some experiments to test the running temp i guess.

ninja-edited to say 80C, but if you have such high thermal resistance as to have dramaticdifferences in heatsink/junction temps, there are other problems. I would expect a junction temp of 100C with a 80C heatsink temp, which is absolutely fine for the short period it would take to shut off...

Sorry forgot to reply I would set your cutoff at 80C (at heatsink), the LEDs will easily take this but it is indicative of catastrophic failure in your cooling, in which case they will only get hotter. Assuming its XTE's you;re looking at judging from the bin temp? edit: I would also love to...