120v or 240v?

It will not lower your amps... sorry...

..

ok... I will tray to explain the BOX...

It works with a relay...

A relay is like a switch, but instead of using your fingers to throw the switch, we use electricity...

You plug the 220v wire into the Dryer outlet...

You plug the 110v to a timer, and into a regular household outlet...

When the timer ACTIVATES... it energizes the relay.. throwing the switch...

As long as the relay is ON.. there is power to the 110v and 220v outlets on the box...

when your timer switches to the OFF position, the relay looses power and switches everything back off...

This way you can use a cheesy timer to control ALL of your lights and 12/12 stuff...

..



If you plug a 110v device into the 110v outlet on the box, you will be connected DIRECTLY to that outlet on the wall...

The 110v stays 110v and the 220v stays 220v...

..

And sorry bro...

there is nothing that will make your stuff use less power...

you cannot change how much power a device uses...

half amps at a double voltage = same power usage..

6 in one basket.. half a dozen in the other...

GypsyBush: Do you use this setup? Has anyone else used one of these?

If these were safe and worked well they would solve all my problems. I have an unused 220V for a range behind my fridge. I can drill a hole and run the wire right into my grow space and have enough power for 4 lights.

I would love to hear any recommendations or problems with these timer boxes.

Thanks All.

GypsyBush said:

I suppose if you are running hundreds of feet of cable.. sure...

but for plugging in our lights in our ops.. I think that's splitting hairs...

And someone that doesn't KNOW this stuff.. SHOULDN"T be messing around with something that can kill them or destroy their home...

...

Wanna use 220v plug 'n play..

get a 30 or 50 amp timer box (search google) and plug it into the wall...

30 amp box plugs into the dryer outlet...

50 amp box plgs into the range outlet...

Easy peasy and SAFE...

Click to expand...

Philo2 said:

GypsyBush: Do you use this setup? Has anyone else used one of these?

If these were safe and worked well they would solve all my problems. I have an unused 220V for a range behind my fridge. I can drill a hole and run the wire right into my grow space and have enough power for 4 lights.

I would love to hear any recommendations or problems with these timer boxes.

Thanks All.

Click to expand...

I use the 50 amp version, plugged into my range outlet...

I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT



I would never go back....

Get yourself a good water heater timer (metal timer) and you will not worry about a thing...

FLAWLESS...

All the extra protection I needed to feel safe with 4 600s plus fans... IN A WOOD HOUSE..

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE 50 AMP to you (if that is the amperage you have for the range outlet...)

GypsyBush said:

I use the 50 amp version, plugged into my range outlet...

I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT



I would never go back....

Get yourself a good water heater timer (metal timer) and you will not worry about a thing...

FLAWLESS...

All the extra protection I needed to feel safe with 4 600s plus fans... IN A WOOD HOUSE..

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE 50 AMP to you (if that is the amperage you have for the range outlet...)

Click to expand...

But if it's a 50 AMP, is that how many AMPS it can HANDLE, or that it TAKES UP?

Will my ballasts be acting like they are at 5 amps pr 10?

artwallis said:

But if it's a 50 AMP, is that how many AMPS it can HANDLE,

Click to expand...

Uh... a 50 amp box can handle 50 amps...

or that it TAKES UP?

Click to expand...

The box uses no power...

It just distributes it safely...

Will my ballasts be acting like they are at 5 amps pr 10?

Click to expand...

Your ballast will not "act" like anything...

It will us the same exact amount of power required for it's operation...

no more no less...

400 watts per hour is 400 watts per hour... period..

are you saying that it would cost the same to run 110v as it does to run 240v? Sorry still a little lost on this.

stumps said:

are you saying that it would cost the same to run 110v as it does to run 240v? Sorry still a little lost on this.

Click to expand...

That is EXACTLY what I am saying......

We use 220v cause it's safer... each wire carrying half the load...

..

Think of it like this...

50 lbs pf potatoes still weight 50 lbs even if 2 people are carrying it...

Each only feels 25.. but the potatoes weight 50 just the same as when one person was carrying it...

..

220v splits the load on 2 wires.. intead of just one with 110v...

..

Did that make any sense?

I know your being overly simple for the sake of the OP Gypsy, but it's worth mentioning for others reading that 240V is actually only a one phase line in nearly the entire world besides the USA. The reason ours is 120v 2phase is simply because back in the day 220v(Now 240v) was to hard to work with and thus we set 110v as the standard. 110v appliance however would be double the amperage of the same appliance on a 220v line, which means the wire thickness has to be increased. So once we better mastered the electrical art, power hungry devices were designed around the 220v services not 110v. At this time though it was already to late and 110v was the American standard, so to achieve the 220v lines we simply doubled up the conductors as you said Gypsy. Not to say our methods are not a true 240v line, but globally 240v is a single phase and the amperage decrease is because of the voltage not the fact that there are two wires doing the work.
(Tired as hell so sorry if that's not at all clear. It's a bit hard to understand even to me and I just wrote it, but best I got right now)

I was trying to keep things simple for the sake of the fact that I am not an electrician...

And that I do not really know this stuff all that well...

But I do know that using the box was WAY SAFER than plugging the lights into the wall outlet and over loading the weak circuit, not to mention a bunch of cheesy timers...

I also know that you CANNOT get a 1k HPS to run on any less than 1K watts...

and that switching your op from 110v to 220v WILL NOT slash your bill in half...

..

This is my PRACTICAL knowledge, for the sake of the op... and it is based entirely on my experience burning the room's original circuit (ALMOST starting a house fire)... then buying the box and switching to 220v... and PAYING THE SAME EXACT BILL as I did the month before...

I dunno much about phases... cycles (hertz)... and all that...

But I'll say this...

I sleep better at night, with (at least) the perception that my op is safer than the day I fried the wiring in the room...

..


And Bro... Thanks for the explanation...

in other countries I guess the analogy is that they get a STRONGER (muscle type) guy to carry the potatoes... instead of getting 2 weaker (normal) guys...

Did I get that right?

There's no exact way to explain it without really going into scientific details, but generally water is a basic way to describe it but we will use jello as it's not quite as free flowing.(Remember voltage is the potential difference between two items) Basically, imagine a PVC pipe like you would use for plumbing. If you filled that PVC pipe with jello and put the pipe flat on the ground, gravity will pull evenly downwards on the entire amount of jello in the PVC and there would be 0 flow coming out of the right side of the pipe as the jello would simply sit there. Now think of voltage as the angle of said pipe. If as we said the angle(volts) is 0 then there is no actual pull on the jello to one side over the other. If we lift the left side of the pipe 5 inches though to the point of the pipe being at say a 45degree angle then the force acting on the jello would make the jello pour out of the right side at X rate, well say 5 units. (Where the rate of flow at 0degree angle would be 0units) If we then lifted the left end of the pipe even higher to the point of the the PVC being at a 95degree angle, the force pulling the jello out of the right side is increased even more and the rate of flow coming out of the right side would jump to 10 units; even though the diameter of the pipe is not altered. So by increasing angle (Volts) we are able to increase the rate of flow without changing the size of the pipe. So basically, by increasing the potential difference(Volts) electrons will increase in their rate of flow regardless that the conductors diameter has remained the same.

Which would go back to the original question asked in this thread, because no matter how many amperes the electrons have to fight, the device will still require the same amount of electrons to power itself(say 600). So by doubling volts we are able to supply those 600 electrons with half the size conductor or as we were using before PVC; simply because the rate of flow is higher. No matter what the rate of flow of electrons though the device still only wants its 600 electrons to run unaffected of how those electrons got to it.

Hope that is at least somewhat clear

Thanks for sharing that..

...

is it OK for the OLD guy to request the use of PARAGRAPHS..??

I have a raging headache from trying to read the jumble of swirling letters...

Not your fault my eyes are failing...

But it would sure help out a fellow.....

Not asking you to re-write.. I read it...

I just meant it as a future reference..

Tanks... and Sorry...

Welcome, and I'll keep that in mind for next time. Always a good idea when trying to explain something slightly long to use good grammar, just slipped my mind.

Thanks again Bro...

and it's not so much a grammar thing...

It's more of a easier on the eye thing...

So many letters, so close together start looking like Alphabet Soup by line 3...

Fucking OLD FARTS...