120v to 240v cords

Hey,

I've got some drivers that are wired with nice extension cords on the input/ac side, standard 5-15p 120v plug end. I want to use them on 240v circuits now though. So I need a 6-15p or 6-20p, right?
What is the *cheapest* way to achieve that?

-I'd rather not cut the plug ends off of the nice 120v cords that are currently attached (via wagos or waterproof connectors).
-The only 240v plug ends (such as for making / repairing cord) I'm seeing so far are $16+ each (CAD).
-Maybe there's an adapter (5-15p to 6-15p or 6-15r)

What are you plugging into? You can use the 5-15p plug on a 240 volt circuit provided the recptacle matches. Just make sure nothing 120 volt gets plugged in by accident.

Not sure 5-15P can fit into a 6-15/20R

I think you're down to cutting the plug and swapping it out.

JOO©E said:

Not sure 5-15P can fit into a 6-15/20R
View attachment 4779541
I think you're down to cutting the plug and swapping it out.

Click to expand...

The image you have there is for twisklock connectors, usually used to junction long runs for like a welder extension. The 5-15P is what you have in north america on normal 120 volt stuff like a personal computer for example. Two vertical blades. The 6-15P has two horizontal blades and is for 240 volt 15 amp loads like a mid sized window AC unit for example.

Titan makes a helios 8 light controller that has their universal receptacle that you can plug either cord type into, great for home growers that don't wanna have to buy different cords. They also make one thats 6-15P only for use in commercial grows.

It may be cheaper for him to make the receptacle match the existing cords. Of course it should be carefully marked as 240 volts only so that a 120 volt load isn't accidentally plugged into the 240 volt feed. The 120 volt / 240 volt plug/receptacle difference is only to prevent this accidental snafu, the 120v receptacle and cord can carry the 240 volts.

I actually like to use the 120 volt receptacle for 240 volt lighting, this allows me to use normal extension cords or three way adapters. I am the only one thats gonna mess with it and I make sure to keep extensions and such labeled as 240V.

It's not wired yet so there's no receptacles yet.
I was thinking the receptacles will be 6-20R style. https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5822-W-Receptacle-Commercial-Grounding/dp/B000U3I1S0/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Leviton+5822-W+20-Amp,+250-Volt,&qid=1609103993&sr=8-1

A 5-15p won't plug into that.
I'm looking at the receptacles diagram in my codebook btw.

Renfro said:

The image you have there is for twisklock connectors, usually used to junction long runs for like a welder extension. The 5-15P is what you have in north america on normal 120 volt stuff like a personal computer for example. Two vertical blades. The 6-15P has two horizontal blades and is for 240 volt 15 amp loads like a mid sized window AC unit for example.

Titan makes a helios 8 light controller that has their universal receptacle that you can plug either cord type into, great for home growers that don't wanna have to buy different cords. They also make one thats 6-15P only for use in commercial grows.

It may be cheaper for him to make the receptacle match the existing cords. Of course it should be carefully marked as 240 volts only so that a 120 volt load isn't accidentally plugged into the 240 volt feed. The 120 volt / 240 volt plug/receptacle difference is only to prevent this accidental snafu, the 120v receptacle and cord can carry the 240 volts.

Click to expand...

Dammit! Haha ya posted wrong pic. Ya definitely could swap the outlets for 5-15/20R.

@2com
Label well if you swap the receptacle. Make sure new people are aware ect so that obliviousness/ignorance doesn't create an issue. The conductors will carry less RMS current, but the devices may or may not have circuitry for both 240 & 120 ect.

This one. Ignore the red arrows, I found the pic online.

2com said:

It's not wired yet so there's no receptacles yet.

Click to expand...

Perfect. So are you going to use a lighting controller?

This one has the universal plugs:

Same model but without the universal plugs:

Renfro said:

The 120 volt / 240 volt plug/receptacle difference is only to prevent this accidental snafu, the 120v receptacle and cord can carry the 240 volts.

Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking - I know the cord (wires and insulation) can handle the 240v, but I wasn't sure if the actual prongs (terminations) were maybe rated rated to only 120v (like the receptacles themselves are rated differently).

Renfro said:

I actually like to use the 120 volt receptacle for 240 volt lighting,

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Do you mean a 120v cord (standard extension cord) and not receptacle? The receptacles are rated specifically for either 120v or 240v... aren't they..?
Or, are you saying they 5-xxR and 6-xxR receptacles only differ in the prong pattern and not their internals or voltage handling capabilities? And the only reason for the different configuration is to protect the actual device that is plugged into the receptacle?
That makes sense, and kinda rings a bell too.

JOO©E said:

Dammit! Haha ya posted wrong pic. Ya definitely could swap the outlets for 5-15/20R.

@2com
Label well if you swap the receptacle. Make sure new people are aware ect so that obliviousness/ignorance doesn't create an issue. The conductors will carry less RMS current, but the devices may or may not have circuitry for both 240 & 120 ect.

Click to expand...

I always do. And it will only be me dealing with it. Gotcha.

Renfro said:

Perfect. So are you going to use a lighting controller?

This one has the universal plugs:

Home | Titan Controls

Titan Controls, is a manufacturer of environmental controls, precision timers, lighting controllers and CO2 equipment based in the Pacific Northwest.

www.titancontrols.net

Same model but without the universal plugs:

Home | Titan Controls

Titan Controls, is a manufacturer of environmental controls, precision timers, lighting controllers and CO2 equipment based in the Pacific Northwest.

www.titancontrols.net

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I didn't plan on it. This is the same room 'build' as the one from our pm convo, and the panel questions.

That one with universal plugs is interesting.

I guess that is similar to that old "powerbox" brand that used to be around and popular.
I will need to control lights (drivers) that don't dim all the way off. I'll be using trolmaster but it can't turn them off due to the driver's limitations there, so will need something to actually turn them off. A bunch of expensive trolmaster "device modules" (relays), or some cheaper relay method.
But if there's a device (like a power box, power center, controller, etc.) that will provide all that, and it only cost a bit more than all the individual parts I'd have to mess around finding and assembling (receptacles, plugs, relays, etc., - and potentially panel, breakers, etc.) than I'd definitely consider it. Like if I could just run my main 6awg, that I'd planned on using to setup a subpanel, and just wire up a 14-60R (or whatever) and plug in a big power center / power box with receptacles and that already there - that might be cool. Haha.

Example behemoth:

2com said:

Or, are you saying they 5-xxR and 6-xxR receptacles only differ in the prong pattern and not their internals or voltage handling capabilities?

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exactly

The insulation is the thing that has to handle extra voltage, the conductor is what handles extra amps (current). You will note that most cords are marked on the outer sheathing "600V" this is the insulation rating, beyond that the voltage could go between conductors inside the cord through the insulation. Think of spark plug wires, very thin conductor but very thick insulation, perfect for high voltage / low amperage.

Renfro said:

I actually like to use the 120 volt receptacle for 240 volt lighting, this allows me to use normal extension cords or three way adapters. I am the only one thats gonna mess with it and I make sure to keep extensions and such labeled as 240V.

Click to expand...

Renfro said:

I actually like to use the 120 volt receptacle for 240 volt lighting, this allows me to use normal extension cords or three way adapters. I am the only one thats gonna mess with it and I make sure to keep extensions and such labeled as 240V.

Click to expand...

I have the helios 8 for the universal plugs as well. Question: You use three way adaptors on this controller? What else are you plugging into it via the three plug adaptor? I've got Hlg 600's and I'm aware each outlet on the controller can't exceed 1000w (I think) and I'd like to use more of the available wattage from each controller plug if possible and I don't have extra lights to add (240w) with a three way adaptor at the moment.
Also, if you use a three way adaptor into the controller, like for a fan, it would turn on and off with the trigger rt? I suppose side lighting or a light mover on a three way plug would work right?

Mr_Manny_D said:

What else are you plugging into it via the three plug adaptor

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Maybe it's three 400's side lighting or three 240 LED sides... Stuff thats not massive draw, stuff within the current carrying capacity of the adapters and wiring.

Mr_Manny_D said:

o, if you use a three way adaptor into the controller, like for a fan, it

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The fan would have to accept 240 volts. IT's a lighting controller and I only use it for lighting. I have other timed 120 volt circuits just for fans and such to exist on.