16/8 photoperiod: can it stress a plant with pre flowers?

ThorGanjason

Well-Known Member
Pretty self explanatory. I knew light leaks and what not could duck up flowering photo periods and cause hermies and whatnot.

But can it cause actual light stress? My leaves have been curling and my plants up and flowered on me today so they (in theory) could have been on 12/12 for a week now and just started to flower. They've had signs of light stress for a week now, 4 days under the mh and 3 under the hps
 

Sciεncε

Active Member
Do you have the hps turned down or is it running at the full 1k? But light interrupting veg darkness isn't a problem, people do large scale outdoor grows and keep their babies from flowering by simply turning on hid lighting in the greenhouse for 1 hr in the middle of the night to ensure there is never a 12 hour dark period during flowering months. So that would stress them out way more than veg light leaks. But then again, not first hand knowledge.

BTW. I searched all of my babies more thoroughly and have a definite 9/12 which is more than I need! woot!
 

ThorGanjason

Well-Known Member
Fucking a right! Yeah I would have cried if mine would've been mostly male. I originally planned on squeezing out my first harvest as quick as possible to try and get some return on my equipment. I never thought I would wind up with so many plants finishing at the same time my first harvest. That's okay, I don't mind!

And yeah, I knew light interruption in veg was fine. That's a cool tip about the 1 hour of light thing to keep from flowering. I guess that's why they say not to interrupt the flowering dark period with light, it can keep it in veg. I've also heard it causes hermies.

But I've never thought about the extra light stress in flower being like actual light stress. Meaning it shows signs of strss like a plant wuld show if it was slightly burned from the lights.

I'm wondering this BC I recently switched to my hps and it caused really bad curling in the tops of my leaves. I attributed it to the switch from the metal halide to the hps, but it was doing it a little even before i switched over.
IMG_20130804_214928.jpgIMG_20130804_214921.jpg
These pics were from two days ago when it was the worst. They would be fine through about 12 hours of the cycle, then would start curling until right before my lights went out and would look like this.

They'd be fine (for the most part) the next morning but then would do it all over again. Today I only ran my light for 14 hours BC I would like to get as much light to them as I can (to help bud growth) since they are already flowering.

I might try and keep it at 14 hours for a week and see how it does, or does this seem like a bad idea?
 

Sciεncε

Active Member
I really wish I had some solid info to share on whats going on, but sadly I really don't know what would be causing it. It's an interesting idea for sure the 14 hour thing, but maybe you can figure out the root of the problem and avoid having to experiment with fixing the symptoms. But either way I'm sure it's nothing more than a slump and you'll figure it out or it'll just pass naturally. Good luck in any case!
 

ThorGanjason

Well-Known Member
BC all 11 (well, 10/11) of my plants have already started flowering under 16/8. More light = more growth, so if I don't have to induce flower then I don't really need to go to 12. See if maybe the 2 extra hours can give me a little more growth. Try and get the buds a jump start on development.
 

ThorGanjason

Well-Known Member
I'm not doing it for all of flower, just a few days.

Is it a bad idea? You put 3 ?'s like it is. That's the main question of this thread so if its a bad idea and you know it, clap your hands. If its a bad idea and you know it, and you really wanna show it, if its a bad idea and you know it, clap your hands.
 

Indoor Sun King

Well-Known Member
With my indoor/sunshine grow, I soon as I see pre-flowers I move my plant into a dark room for 10 hours/day (mostly because of my personal schedule won't allow anymore than 10 hours).....this was enough darkness to get her to flower.

I'll keep this same schedule until the end....did this last year as well and had no issues
 

JSJ

Well-Known Member
Is this an auto? Don't know anything about autos, but if it's not and you are trying to flower your plants, which it sounds like you are, claiming you want more bud growth, then putting them under 14 hours is NOT what you want to do.
 

JSJ

Well-Known Member
i'm not doing it for all of flower, just a few days.

Is it a bad idea? You put 3 ?'s like it is. That's the main question of this thread so if its a bad idea and you know it, clap your hands. If its a bad idea and you know it, and you really wanna show it, if its a bad idea and you know it, clap your hands.
clap clap clap clap clap clap
 

ThorGanjason

Well-Known Member
Haha, OK right on that's what I figured. I thought the light stress was just from switching spectrums (which I'm sure it partly was), but now it makes sense why they were showing the stress before the hps, while they were still under the metal halide.

The plants are way older than they look; I went through 3 or 4 setups before I finally got them thriving under the metal halide, and I'm hoping to see even better results with my tent and proper ventilation.

I think they were also a little over fed, but they showed signs of improvement taking the light down two hours so I might as well go ahead and set my timer for 12 hours.

I appreciate all the help guys, I've had a couple threads started trying to get these girls back in shape for flower. Nothing too serious but since my first harvest is gonna be a lot bigger than I expected, I want them all in the best shape possible. Was wanting to get a perpetual harvest going but with all of my plants flowering I'll just have to wait til the next run
 

kinddiesel

Well-Known Member
the pics some body posted. the plants have the CLAW over nitrogen look it up. when they get way to much those leaves curl up just like that, why they call it the claw
 
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