18 gallon DWC

D

disratory

Well-Known Member
ARMY_OF_ONE_92Y said:
Aw man, seems like I gotta try to fix this ASAP or it may be too late... I'm gonna try to save them
Click to expand...
Maybe try at least 1 airstone per basket and get the airstones positioned so that they are maybe 3-4 inches directly under each basket as well. Also, id suggest dipping the roots in a mix of diluted h202 for maybe 60 seconds and changing 100% of the water and sanitize the tub. Have you ever used hydroguard?
 
Last edited:
A

Addonexus

Member
I would recommend that once you mix the solution, and get it PH'd etc. To find a CLEAN cup or something, scoop some res water with the h2o2 and flush your hydroton. This will help the solution combat what root rot is already developed in the root zone if there is any, also refreshing the PH in that general area cant hurt.

I have a few questions

How big is your res and what type of air pump do you have? I use 10 to 15 gallon tetra air pumps per bucket 5 gallon bucket. This is because they are cheap and my solution is not chilled so the amount of oxygen actually reaching the root zone and or oxygenating the water is severely diminished.

Have you taken clones of your best two ladies yet? You will most likely be able to save them when you switch over to a sterile res, however it never hurts to be prepared.

Lastly I might be dumb or blind, but I remember there being a conversation about weather or not your reservoir has any light leaks. Is this not a huge hole in the middle of your reservoir?
SLUDGE.jpeg

What are those black tubes BTW? whatever they are you should run some hydrogen peroxide and or alcohol on a cloth and wipe them down to remove any sludge, this goes with your whole system. The bucket should be cleaned, sterilized and then rinsed down with clean water.

Lastly I would suggest upgrading your air pump once you research how much oxygen is reduced due to the temperature of the water. The air pump should completely over do the amount of air you think is required to compensate for the diminished oxygen. So if you have something like a 5 gallon res and your water temperatures reach 71+ etc, and lets say you are running a 5 gallon air pump, there is a good chance that only half or less of the oxygen being produced is being used. So over compensating is a must, unless those black tubes are some form of cooling vs just creating a light leak.

Just remembered when considering the size of the air pump, also consider how far down your air stone is in the reservoir, the further down the harder it is for the pump to push air.

I hope this helps.
 
A

Addonexus

Member
On a side note, if you are using tap water allow it to sit out for 24 hours, less if you run an air stone and provide light to the water then wait around 12 hours. When mixing your solution add the h2o2 to the water first, give it around 15 minutes and then add each part. If you are using silica and or cal mag make sure to add those after the h2o2, one at a time and in that order. So h2o2 wait 15, silica, wait 10 to 15, cal mag wait 10 to 15 and then base nutrients wait, supplements etc.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Addonexus said:
I would recommend that once you mix the solution, and get it PH'd etc. To find a CLEAN cup or something, scoop some res water with the h2o2 and flush your hydroton. This will help the solution combat what root rot is already developed in the root zone if there is any, also refreshing the PH in that general area cant hurt.

I have a few questions

How big is your res and what type of air pump do you have? I use 10 to 15 gallon tetra air pumps per bucket 5 gallon bucket. This is because they are cheap and my solution is not chilled so the amount of oxygen actually reaching the root zone and or oxygenating the water is severely diminished.

Have you taken clones of your best two ladies yet? You will most likely be able to save them when you switch over to a sterile res, however it never hurts to be prepared.

Lastly I might be dumb or blind, but I remember there being a conversation about weather or not your reservoir has any light leaks. Is this not a huge hole in the middle of your reservoir?
View attachment 3769129

What are those black tubes BTW? whatever they are you should run some hydrogen peroxide and or alcohol on a cloth and wipe them down to remove any sludge, this goes with your whole system. The bucket should be cleaned, sterilized and then rinsed down with clean water.

Lastly I would suggest upgrading your air pump once you research how much oxygen is reduced due to the temperature of the water. The air pump should completely over do the amount of air you think is required to compensate for the diminished oxygen. So if you have something like a 5 gallon res and your water temperatures reach 71+ etc, and lets say you are running a 5 gallon air pump, there is a good chance that only half or less of the oxygen being produced is being used. So over compensating is a must, unless those black tubes are some form of cooling vs just creating a light leak.

Just remembered when considering the size of the air pump, also consider how far down your air stone is in the reservoir, the further down the harder it is for the pump to push air.

I hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Even more so, ditch this setup and start fresh using 5 black 5 gal buckets and ez peel lids, 4 for plants one for res, for absolute light proofing and a sterile enviornment. You'll just need to tweak a few things and connect your buckets to a seperate 5 gal for a res on gravity returns and run a submersible from your res to supply lines into each bucket to create waterfalls. It's easy. Just use grommets and tee fittings.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Addonexus said:
On a side note, if you are using tap water allow it to sit out for 24 hours, less if you run an air stone and provide light to the water then wait around 12 hours. When mixing your solution add the h2o2 to the water first, give it around 15 minutes and then add each part. If you are using silica and or cal mag make sure to add those after the h2o2, one at a time and in that order. So h2o2 wait 15, silica, wait 10 to 15, cal mag wait 10 to 15 and then base nutrients wait, supplements etc.
Click to expand...
I use ro water. I mix calimagic, then flora micro, then gro, then bloom, then h2o2, then mammoth p. All have a good dissolving and mixing in between each step. Never had issues at all.
 
A

Addonexus

Member
Whatever works for you, I was just referring to most nutrient producers instructions. Obviously you would want to sterilize your res before adding anything to it. The rest has to do with the chemical bonds with water and or each other. But hey, F science and manufacturer instructions its not like they test or anything :-|.
 
A

Addonexus

Member
The quickest one I could find, happens to be botanicare

FEEDSHEET TIPS

1. In warmer environments, plants will lose more water through transpiration. Applying a more dilute nutrient solution when temperatures are warmer will prevent
over-fertilization.
2. Follow these steps when using Silica Blast or Cal-Mag. When using Silica Blast, always add Silica Blast into your reservoir FIRST followed by Cal-Mag. If Silica Blast
is not being used and Cal-Mag is, Cal-Mag should be added FIRST, then add the remaining nutrients.
3. If growing in coconut coir-based media or if using reverse osmosis water, add 3-5 ml of Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus to the nutrient solution recipe.
4. Maintain a nutrient solution pH range between 5.5-6.5 using Botanicare pH Up or pH Down.
5. The optimal temperature range of the nutrient solution is... 68°F - 75°F (20°C - 24°C).
6. Use nutrient solution immediately after mixing or keep solution circulating to prevent settling.
7. If using a recirculating system, maintain water level in reservoir by adding fresh water and nutrients as needed. Change solution every week.
8. If using a drain to waste system, allow 10-20% runoff to decrease potential for salt buildup. If no runoff is planned, reduce the PPM/EC to prevent potential salt buildup.
9. Additional Botanicare supplements have been scientifically formulated to meet plant needs during important phases of growth and development. Use Hydroguard for maximum root protection, Vitamino to enhance plant tissue development and maintain microbial-root health, and Clearex to break ionic bonds in the grow media while flushing or in the case of over fertilization.

I don't solely use botanicare however I have never had an issue with their products and don't mind taking their advice.
 
A

Addonexus

Member
Something from DM about h2o2

HYDROGEN PEROXIDE:
Commonly known as H2O2, is intended for cleaning equipment and treating well water only. Often, it is sold on the premises as "extra oxygen" for roots. H2O2 is a highly reactive molecule. It is an oxidizing agent that is unstable in solution and tends to rip away electrons from other sources such as living matter (including root cells, bacteria and your skin!!) and chelating agents as well as reacting with other organic matter. This is what makes it an effective "cleaning" agent. However, for this reason it is not recommended in root zones or nutrient solutions. Adding too much H2O2 can kill your plants by damaging the roots, and render 'Hydroponic Nutrient Solutions' less effective by breaking down chelating agents.

It is recommended that you follow label instructions on dilution rates and treat water beforehand with H2O2 and allow at least 24 - 36 hours for most of it to react and become water and oxygen. Then use this "sterilized" and oxygenated water for your nutrient solution. Remember to keep the nutrient temperatures between 60 - 70 F / 16 - 22 C to keep the oxygen dissolved in the water.
 
A

Addonexus

Member
Do research don't just take advice from forums, the information is out there and its conducted by professionals. Good Luck.
 
ARMY_OF_ONE_92Y

ARMY_OF_ONE_92Y

Active Member
disratory said:
Maybe try at least 1 airstone per basket and get the airstones positioned so that they are maybe 3-4 inches directly under each basket as well. Also, id suggest dipping the roots in a mix of diluted h202 for maybe 60 seconds and changing 100% of the water and sanitize the tub. Have you ever used hydroguard?
Click to expand...
I'm using it now
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Addonexus said:
Whatever works for you, I was just referring to most nutrient producers instructions. Obviously you would want to sterilize your res before adding anything to it. The rest has to do with the chemical bonds with water and or each other. But hey, F science and manufacturer instructions its not like they test or anything :-|.
Click to expand...
The way I mentioned is exactly per Manufacturer instructions... you on crack?
 
A

Addonexus

Member
@Airwalker16, Is this what you are refering too?

Which comes rst, Armor Si or CALiMAGic?
• When using both Armor Si and CALiMAGic,
add Armor Si to the reservoir rst.
• When using Armor Si and/or CALiMAGic, with Flora Series,
these products should be added prior to adding FloraMicro.

So this is from GH on their feed sheet for the flora series. Tell me where exactly it instructs you to mix h2o2? Ill wait for a while, since they don't distribute a h2o2 product no do any of their feed sheets recommend using that product. So you are either an idiot or you are just talking out of your big ass. Its not hard to look things up in this day and age I would suggest you do the same before regergitating some bullshit to someone who is in need of correct information.

Getting back to mixing a steralizing agent before before the base nutrients feel free to refer to another manufacturer such as DutchMaster's. Here's a link so you dont hurt yourself http://www.dutchmaster.com.au/?language=english&page=product&product=GOLD_RANGE_ZONE.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Addonexus said:
@Airwalker16, Is this what you are refering too?

Which comes rst, Armor Si or CALiMAGic?
• When using both Armor Si and CALiMAGic,
add Armor Si to the reservoir rst.
• When using Armor Si and/or CALiMAGic, with Flora Series,
these products should be added prior to adding FloraMicro.

So this is from GH on their feed sheet for the flora series. Tell me where exactly it instructs you to mix h2o2? Ill wait for a while, since they don't distribute a h2o2 product no do any of their feed sheets recommend using that product. So you are either an idiot or you are just talking out of your big ass. Its not hard to look things up in this day and age I would suggest you do the same before regergitating some bullshit to someone who is in need of correct information.

Getting back to mixing a steralizing agent before before the base nutrients feel free to refer to another manufacturer such as DutchMaster's. Here's a link so you dont hurt yourself http://www.dutchmaster.com.au/?language=english&page=product&product=GOLD_RANGE_ZONE.
Click to expand...
WTF are you talking about? Youre just making yourself look stupid. I never said h2o2 was included in the instructions, nor did I say that about using mammoth p. All I meant was that AFTER following General Hydroponics Directions of CaliMagic FIRST, MIX, FloraMicro, MIX, FloraGro, MIX, and lastly FloraBloom, Mix, that at that point I would THEN MIX in h2o2 and Mammoth P and have done so for ever. It works for me. It's like you just wanted to be a complete fucking asshole and pry apart something I said just so you could put someone on blast. Do you feel better now? Fuckin Loser.
 
A

Addonexus

Member
"I use ro water. I mix calimagic, then flora micro, then gro, then bloom, then h2o2, then mammoth p. All have a good dissolving and mixing in between each step. Never had issues at all."

"The way I mentioned is exactly per Manufacturer instructions"

Lets combine those two quotes in order, not once in that sentence did you say oh yea h2o2 and mammoth are not part of the manufacturers instruction. I apologize for assuming that when you formulated a comment and stated that "it was per the manufacturers instructions" that you didn't mean it exactly how you wrote it.

Once again using a sterilizing agent like h2o2 is disruptive to your reservoir as per the previous posts, and I was referring to an actual manufacturer that makes a sterilizing agent such as zone from DutchMaster's. Please explain to me if you can, how taking what you said literally, and posting a few links makes me stupid or makes me seem like a crack user. Don't be pathetic, it's the internet and a public forum.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Addonexus said:
"I use ro water. I mix calimagic, then flora micro, then gro, then bloom, then h2o2, then mammoth p. All have a good dissolving and mixing in between each step. Never had issues at all."

"The way I mentioned is exactly per Manufacturer instructions"

Lets combine those two quotes in order, not once in that sentence did you say oh yea h2o2 and mammoth are not part of the manufacturers instruction. I apologize for assuming that when you formulated a comment and stated that "it was per the manufacturers instructions" that you didn't mean it exactly how you wrote it.

Once again using a sterilizing agent like h2o2 is disruptive to your reservoir as per the previous posts, and I was referring to an actual manufacturer that makes a sterilizing agent such as zone from DutchMaster's. Please explain to me if you can, how taking what you said literally, and posting a few links makes me stupid or makes me seem like a crack user. Don't be pathetic, it's the internet and a public forum.
Click to expand...
Because you'd have to just be wanting to be a dick to pull that conclusion from what I posted. H2o2 doesn't hurt nutrients at all.
 
A

Addonexus

Member
I'm not going to tarnish this soldiers thread with any more ignorance or infighting, If you want to address me do it in a PM. Like I said I apologize for assuming that you meant what you wrote especially after the second crack comment. When someone says that's exactly how it happened, that doesn't leave room for discussion. So exactly per the instructions means just that. If English inst your first language once again I apologize.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Addonexus said:
If English inst your first language once again I apologize.
Click to expand...
Holy fuckin shit man... Rofl lol. You're killing me.

You mean:
If "the" English language "ISN'T" your first language","once again","I apologize.

Looks like you're the one with the grammar and punctuality problem here.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top