1st Grow - Custom Room: Pineapple Chunk, Spc. Kush, Ice, G13, Hollands Hope

thecannacove

Well-Known Member
There all coming along .... Some crazy shaped plants there and tall :)
that must of taken you ages to do that update .....
So tell us what ones your favorite ? :weed:
I know right? I started LST a little late (just a tiny bit) so I had to bend shit over like crazy and it resulted some "unique" main stem shapes lol.

I would say g13 #3 & ice #1 are looking real nice. G13 #3 has some serious buddage going on. :joint:

» This message was posted using my phone and the RIU android app. Mi apologies four typeos or pests tha meek know cents ;-p lol «
 

Cascadian

Well-Known Member
Damn, those are beautiful plants.

I don't think those temps are going to be a problem and you are right the higher humidity and lower temps slow down their life cycle and give you a better chance to kill them before they can adapt. Your buds are pretty well developed already, after about another week i would be real careful with any spraying on them.

That Ice looks nice!
 

thecannacove

Well-Known Member
Damn, those are beautiful plants.

I don't think those temps are going to be a problem and you are right the higher humidity and lower temps slow down their life cycle and give you a better chance to kill them before they can adapt. Your buds are pretty well developed already, after about another week i would be real careful with any spraying on them.

That Ice looks nice!
I saw a live mite on my girls a bit ago.. I'm pissed. I busted my ass to get those fuckers. :(

» This message was posted using my phone and the RIU android app. Mi apologies four typeos or pests tha meek know cents ;-p lol «
 

Cascadian

Well-Known Member
That sucks man, very frustrating. Trust me you killed a ton of them, you did the treatment properly from what I have read. Once you start rotating different stuff on them they die faster and any still living will take a lot longer to recover.

If you dont already have one pick up a pump sprayer with a wand on it from HD, they run about $10 and make getting under all the leaves much easier.

Tmill, consider yourself lucky this is one subject you don't want to learn. Hope you never get them.
 

thecannacove

Well-Known Member
That sucks man, very frustrating. Trust me you killed a ton of them, you did the treatment properly from what I have read. Once you start rotating different stuff on them they die faster and any still living will take a lot longer to recover.

If you dont already have one pick up a pump sprayer with a wand on it from HD, they run about $10 and make getting under all the leaves much easier.

Tmill, consider yourself lucky this is one subject you don't want to learn. Hope you never get them.
Yeah I have a pump sprayer. I'm thinking neem, and then mighty wash next two sprays. Do I need to do a rinse spray of the habanero residue first though? With just water I mean.

» This message was posted using my phone and the RIU android app. Mi apologies four typeos or pests tha meek know cents ;-p lol «
 

Cascadian

Well-Known Member
My understanding is you don't have to rinse off the Habanero water. If you did ad some soap you may want to rinse them off. The soap can clog the stomata on the leaves. When I have just added a few drops to a solution sometimes I don't rinse. Up to you based on how much soap you used.

Also, just want to let you know I have never sprayed neem on my plants/no experience there. I chose not to because I read it can change the flavor of the buds. It works great as a root drench because it is a systemic and you avoid the smell. I would spray a flowering plant with azamax before I would spray neem.

I like using the mighty wash for the last two treatments. Mighty wash does sell a rinse product to be used after application but a lot of people on RIU claim a rinse after mighty wash ins't necessary.
 

thecannacove

Well-Known Member
My understanding is you don't have to rinse off the Habanero water. If you did ad some soap you may want to rinse them off. The soap can clog the stomata on the leaves. When I have just added a few drops to a solution sometimes I don't rinse. Up to you based on how much soap you used.

Also, just want to let you know I have never sprayed neem on my plants/no experience there. I chose not to because I read it can change the flavor of the buds. It works great as a root drench because it is a systemic and you avoid the smell. I would spray a flowering plant with azamax before I would spray neem.

I like using the mighty wash for the last two treatments. Mighty wash does sell a rinse product to be used after application but a lot of people on RIU claim a rinse after mighty wash ins't necessary.
I used about a drop a gallon when watering my girls, but didn't use any in my spray. Also my mad, I didn't mean to say spray with neem, but rather water with it :)

Stupid question, a root drench is just a thorough watering with whatever treatment you are using correct? I mean, I'm not taking these girls out of the pot right? Lol, sorry, just haven't had to fight pests before. Thanks for all your help!
 

Cascadian

Well-Known Member
Cool, just wanted to make sure on the neem.

Totally valide question.
Root drench is exactly what you described. For mites I think when they or their eggs are in the soil it is the top 2" mostly so I would get that area well and also down all the sides. As long as the roots uptake the neem you will be fine though.

A root dunk is what I did yesterday for my root aphids, submerging the pot and rootball into a solution and soaking for a few minutes.

BTW, I saw the thread where that idiot douchebag BSD was harassing everyone... Didn't realize you served in Iraq, thanks for your service man.
 

thecannacove

Well-Known Member
Cool, just wanted to make sure on the neem.

Totally valide question.
Root drench is exactly what you described. For mites I think when they or their eggs are in the soil it is the top 2" mostly so I would get that area well and also down all the sides. As long as the roots uptake the neem you will be fine though.

A root dunk is what I did yesterday for my root aphids, submerging the pot and rootball into a solution and soaking for a few minutes.

BTW, I saw the thread where that idiot douchebag BSD was harassing everyone... Didn't realize you served in Iraq, thanks for your service man.
Re: BSD haha, yeah, what a douche huh? Ok good that was the reason for my question dunk vs. drench :). So when doing a root dunk, pot stays and gets submerged?

» This message was posted using my phone and the RIU android app. Mi apologies four typeos or pests tha meek know cents ;-p lol «
 

Cascadian

Well-Known Member
Yeah man, I have rarely seen someone dig themselves such a deep hole on RIU... It was a funny read, I need to remember to go back and rep Ace Yonder for the detailed call out! I would have repped you too but...
You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to thecannacove again.



That is exactly the idea. I just slowly push the bucket into the solution until I can feel it getting heavy (probably 2/3 soaked) then dip the side of the pot over to let solution in from the top. The idea of just leaving them submerged and drenched for a long period makes me nervous. My method seemed to work and got me to harvest, the plants barely missed a beat...
 

thecannacove

Well-Known Member
Lol yeah I gave ace rep+ for that. It was great.

Ok I'm worrying now... my light schedule is on from 7PM to 7AM and off from 7AM to 7PM.. well I sprayed everything yesterday and I didn't finish getting everything back up in the room until like 845AM (this is yesterday not today) so because of that they got 2 extra hours of light. I want to concerned I just wanted to make sure they got 12 hours of darkness, so I set timer to not come back on until 9PM (last night) and planned to go back 7 to 7 by killing lights 7AM this morning.

So to break that down this is what they got.. lights on from 7PM Monday night to 9AM Tuesday morning, then dark 9AM to 9PM Tuesday evening, then light from 9PM to 7AM today.

The problem is I just went down to check temps and the lights were on still... which means they didn't start there 12 dark until 1230 (noon) when I just manually shut them off. So now their light schedule is all fucked up and I don't want to give them less than 12 dark or much more than 16 of light (no more than 12 ideally of course). That means they gotta be lights out till at least 12:30AM now. My concern is the plants developing mold or herming on me. But how do you think I should get back to a light on period of 7PM to 7AM?
 

Cascadian

Well-Known Member
That is tough, I had a few lighting mishaps too. Had the lights come on in the middle of dark for 3 hours once and there was another minor problem I don't remember exactly now too.

Generally, what I have read and when I posted a question about it the responses were to just go back to the regular light schedule. Most people though everything should be fine, they were right I had no major hermie problems (just the Purple Kush at the very end due to genetics IMO).

I don't think you will get a mold problem from it but if it were me I would worry about the hermie possibility. Try to get them back to the schedule you want them at/that they were on over 2-3 days would be what I would do. Make sure they get at least 10 or 11 hours of dark as you slowly switch them back.

On the first adjustment I would have the lights out until 10:30pm tonight, then on until 9:30am tomorrow, back on at 8:30pm, off at 7:30am, then on at 7pm...
My thought process is that bringing them back gradually is better than more confusing lighting for them. I know people who flower on 13/11 so you should be ok using slightly less than 12 hours of dark.

I know people will have opinions all over the map on this question. Some will probably tell you to just switch back to 7am 7pm and not sweat it.
Maybe post a question about it and see if you get responses from someone who has delt with it and seen the results.

Take my opinion with a grain of salt, it is just what I would do intuitively. Changes are more gradual in nature so I would try as best I could to replicate that.

If your genetics are strong and not prone to hermie I don't think you will see any problem though.
 

thecannacove

Well-Known Member
That is tough, I had a few lighting mishaps too. Had the lights come on in the middle of dark for 3 hours once and there was another minor problem I don't remember exactly now too.

Generally, what I have read and when I posted a question about it the responses were to just go back to the regular light schedule. Most people though everything should be fine, they were right I had no major hermie problems (just the Purple Kush at the very end due to genetics IMO).

I don't think you will get a mold problem from it but if it were me I would worry about the hermie possibility. Try to get them back to the schedule you want them at/that they were on over 2-3 days would be what I would do. Make sure they get at least 10 or 11 hours of dark as you slowly switch them back.

On the first adjustment I would have the lights out until 10:30pm tonight, then on until 9:30am tomorrow, back on at 8:30pm, off at 7:30am, then on at 7pm...
My thought process is that bringing them back gradually is better than more confusing lighting for them. I know people who flower on 13/11 so you should be ok using slightly less than 12 hours of dark.

I know people will have opinions all over the map on this question. Some will probably tell you to just switch back to 7am 7pm and not sweat it.
Maybe post a question about it and see if you get responses from someone who has delt with it and seen the results.

Take my opinion with a grain of salt, it is just what I would do intuitively. Changes are more gradual in nature so I would try as best I could to replicate that.

If your genetics are strong and not prone to hermie I don't think you will see any problem though.
I agree with your logic here, it makes the most sense to me it's a lot better than going the other route and elongating the dark period for several hours and then the same with light period just to get back on schedule quicker.

I know my genetics are strong but i don't want to test shit right now. Slow and steady is the key here I think, just like you said. I've invested a lot of time and a significant amount of money in resources for it to all go down the shitter this late in the game.

On a similar note, one reason I did the hab spray first was because I didn't want any chemical pesticide on plants (mainly the buds). I wouldn't mind as much in veg, but i just don't want poisons in my buds. BUT I am straying from this ideal because I want to make it to my harvest! I went to local hydro shop after seeing the bastards still crawling and i picked up a product i read about, but at the time didn't think i could use in flower. Turns out I can. It's doctor doom. It's a pyrith. blend bomb. I'm gonna take my hood out (in dark or green light) and put a garbage bag over my exhaust scrubber and bomb those fuckers. Then lights on at 10:30 like you suggested. Then I'll mighty wash in a couple days.

Speaking of green light, are the green cfl's ok or should I use a different green light? I've wondered about this my whole grow, lol.
 

Cascadian

Well-Known Member
Haven't used a pyrethrin bomb but I know others have had good results with them. I have been meaning to pick one up for my lingering mites in the veg room. I used a pyrethrin dunk and I am convinced it did as much good for the mites and for the root aphids. I also don't want chems on my buds but did use azamax and spinosad to about 3 weeks in. Good choice IMO.

I have researched the green light issue and what I found is most claim it doesn't really matter. People seem to not have many problems using them. Any green light will work, just use in moderation. I used an app on my phone that lets me customize a screen color but you might need a CFL for the larger grow. I would just get a lower wattage one like a 13 watt.
 

thecannacove

Well-Known Member
Haven't used a pyrethrin bomb but I know others have had good results with them. I have been meaning to pick one up for my lingering mites in the veg room. I used a pyrethrin dunk and I am convinced it did as much good for the mites and for the root aphids. I also don't want chems on my buds but did use azamax and spinosad to about 3 weeks in. Good choice IMO.

I have researched the green light issue and what I found is most claim it doesn't really matter. People seem to not have many problems using them. Any green light will work, just use in moderation. I used an app on my phone that lets me customize a screen color but you might need a CFL for the larger grow. I would just get a lower wattage one like a 13 watt.
I got a 13W fluro. And yes, very very moderate usage :) I still don't trust but sometimes I have no choice in the matter. Right now I just need it long enough to take down my light hood and cover/wrap things I don't want to bomb..

» This message was posted using my phone and the RIU android app. Mi apologies four typeos or pests tha meek know cents ;-p lol «
 

thecannacove

Well-Known Member
I bombed the fuckers.... we'll see how it does. I suspect that it will put an end to all crawling and flying things. And since I've not done a rinse after the hab spray, I think the egg count from previous mature mites is low. That said I think I'll be taking ownership of my grow hut back as soon as the vapor settles.

Hittin' the bong and will see what's up in a couple hours. I will still be hitting with mighty wash in around 3 days or so.

» This message was posted using my phone and the RIU android app. Mi apologies four typeos or pests tha meek know cents ;-p lol «
 

thecannacove

Well-Known Member
Woohoo, I'm happy to report that the only living living organisms living with my ladies are benign :fire:

They're there, but they ain't livin'. Now I just got carcass littered spotted leaves :leaf: Mighty wash will clean 'em off in a couple/few days though. Then a simple water rinse and all should be light maintenance through the end of harvest (all of you nod your heads). Catastrophe avoided.. :brushes shoulders oFF:
 

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