1st Grow - Hubbabubbasmelloscope in DWC & Water Farm

Homie Da Clown said:
Good... Just let them grow a little... Soon as we get some good roots in the water then we can increase the light because then they will have enough roots to push the water for the increased transpiration from the increased photosynthesis. If you raise up the wattage of the light, before they can move enough water to cool themselves, then they will burn up.
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Ah-ha! That’s a good thing to know :-)
 
Aw damnit! Just peeked in to check the humdity level and noticed that my big girl has rust spoots on her OTHER leaves now. They werent there this morning! It cant be calcium deficiency, but what else might it be?
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Its because you jave been all over the place with ppm and nute mix..
Im telling you, your a newb and u really just need to run lucas.
 
Evil-Mobo said:
She was but I have found this is a situation that just has to be dealt with under LED. I'm @ 5ml/gallon through the entire grow of Cal-Mag Plus
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Was that in addition to other nutrients? I’m using the GH flora trio, but it’s been advised by my tutors ( :blsmoke: ) that I follow the Lucas formula and didnt know if that - in an of itself - was sufficient calmag
 
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cjsbabygirl313 said:
Was that in addition to other nutrients? I’m using the GH flora trio, but it’s been advised by my tutors ( :blsmoke: ) that I follow the Lucas formula and didnt know if that - in an of itself - was sufficient calmag
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I'm running the Flora Nova and yes I add silica and Cal mag and light dose of ful-power
 
I have never seen a need for Calmg
I run in coco and even on the most hungry girls
I just up my base feed and they are fine
but these are my experiences
 
I went ahead and changed out the nute mix to ONLY micro and bloom ... I left the ph sitting at 5.1 and 5.3 for now since my ph seems to climb ... I'll keep an eye on it though
 
cjsbabygirl313 said:
I went ahead and changed out the nute mix to ONLY micro and bloom ... I left the ph sitting at 5.1 and 5.3 for now since my ph seems to climb ... I'll keep an eye on it though
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that isnt how PH works
using the ph adjuster buffers ph raising it as well as stabilizing it at the same time

this is formula for hydro users

ph raise ppm down *plant is feeding

ph down ppm up * plant isnt feeding

always keep you ppm stable

always start it at the correct ph
allow it to swing up through the correct uptake ph range and bring it back down when needed
you do not want to start so low that it is out of ph range
that causes lockout
 
I have well water so a completely different beast but I have to add comparatively massive amounts of down to get it to stabalize due to buffers in water but I adjust to 5.6-5.7 and it will slowly rise till refill. I did notice with bringing it to 5.8 it would rapidly rise. I add 40 ml per 100 litres, I’d have to check but I’m thinking it’s 35% phosphoric acid??? I use sulphuric acid now at 45%. I do know that airstones will raise ph as well.
 
Budley Doright said:
I have well water so a completely different beast but I have to add comparatively massive amounts of down to get it to stabalize due to buffers in water but I adjust to 5.6-5.7 and it will slowly rise till refill. I did notice with bringing it to 5.8 it would rapidly rise. I add 40 ml per 100 litres, I’d have to check but I’m thinking it’s 35% phosphoric acid??? I use sulphuric acid now at 45%. I do know that airstones will raise ph as well.
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for hydro I always recommend 5.5ph and allow to rise to 6.2 before bringing it back down
this allows the plant to uptake through the zone giving the plant more availability
but then always dropping back to 5.5
 
Wisher2 said:
for hydro I always recommend 5.5ph and allow to rise to 6.2 before bringing it back down
this allows the plant to uptake through the zone giving the plant more availability
but then always dropping back to 5.5
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Ya I usual drop it to 5.6 and it seems to work well. I’m sure 5.5 works well too ;).
 
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