gobears4eva
Well-Known Member
looking pretty,my plant showed today yay!!!but yea just keep ur PH right and everything should be fine,looking so perrrty!hehe
1st grow, is there a problem with this?
- Thread starter jadeshecky
- Start date
jadeshecky
Well-Known Member
so your plant showed, is it a girl? I'm hopeing for pink.
so is my plant in vegetative state now? How long should I veg her for before i put them on 12/12? Not really looking for a gynormous plant with like a thousand zips, I just want some tasty tomatoes.
gobears4eva
Well-Known Member
depends if ur gonna top ur plants or just let them grow out.and by showed i meant she popped from the soil haha,i hope shes a girl or im gonna cry 
haha.usually u veg for 5 weeks depending on if ur gonna top or not,if ur gonna top id say 5 weeks if not id say 4 maybe 3 depending on how much room u actually got to grow.I am just hoping ur plants keep growing and remain healthy hun
haha.usually u veg for 5 weeks depending on if ur gonna top or not,if ur gonna top id say 5 weeks if not id say 4 maybe 3 depending on how much room u actually got to grow.I am just hoping ur plants keep growing and remain healthy hun
jadeshecky
Well-Known Member
oh thats right u just have a seed starting. lol
i guess that i will see how big it gets in 2 moor weeks.
i guess that i will see how big it gets in 2 moor weeks.
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
sorry about this but im lazy and dont feel like digging back through all the many pages on the thread. what is your lighting setup and area dimensions? do you plan on using the same area for flower? what lights do you plan on flowering with? i can advise you better on what an appropriate amount of veg time is. can you be a little more specific on what size of plant you want to have? one important thing to remember is that by the end of flowering your plants will be approx. 3 times as big as when first put into flower. i advise you use lst or some other form of height control (fim/topping/etc). you get multiple top colas if you do, making use of as much light as possible. sorry i cant remember what your setup is, lol, but anyway.......lemme know that stuff and i'll try to help. it looks like its getting ready to really start growing fast, as for when the seedling stage is considered over it depends on who you ask. i'd say after the 3rd node i consider it vegging but this is what the growfaq says(which to be honest its not really important how long its considered to be a seedling.)
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The second pair of leaves begins the seedling stage. They are set opposite each other and usually have a single blade. They differ from the embryonic leaves by their larger size, spearhead shape, and serrated margins. With the next pair of leaves that appears, usually each leaf has three blades and is larger still. A basic pattern has been set. Each new set of leaves will be larger, with a higher number of blades per leaf until, depending on variety, they reach their maximum number, often nine or 11. The seedling stage is completed within four to six weeks.
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The second pair of leaves begins the seedling stage. They are set opposite each other and usually have a single blade. They differ from the embryonic leaves by their larger size, spearhead shape, and serrated margins. With the next pair of leaves that appears, usually each leaf has three blades and is larger still. A basic pattern has been set. Each new set of leaves will be larger, with a higher number of blades per leaf until, depending on variety, they reach their maximum number, often nine or 11. The seedling stage is completed within four to six weeks.
jadeshecky
Well-Known Member
no worries, i tend to be a little lazy too lol.
my grow area is 3x3x5
veg lights - 3 AG grow lights full spectrum ( i am getting new ones in today and hopefully the box will tell me exactly what watt and spectrum they are. 4 cfl 26watts each an 6500k.
flowering lights - 3 ag grow and 4 cfl 26 watt 2700k
yes i plan on useing the same space to flower and the seeds are master kush. hope this is what you were looking for.
jadeshecky
Well-Known Member
looking good
how do i raise my humidity without a humidifier, or is it fine where its at?
how do i raise my humidity without a humidifier, or is it fine where its at?
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darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
i'd veg for 6 weeks, using lst and fimming into scrog to get a nice even canopy of top colas.
jadeshecky
Well-Known Member
what is lst and fimming into scrog ?
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
low stress training and fimming and using a screen to keep the plant short and bushy and maximise light effeciency. i'll find a few links.......
hotshot323232
Well-Known Member
cut back a lil on your watering!!!
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
hope this helps. let me know if u have any questions.
** The ScrOG Concept **
Growing with fluoros gives one a good understanding of light to plant distance because it's so critical. Even so, HID users still appreciate the impact of having as much growth as possible, as close as possible to the light. It's how to make best use of what you have.
In the process of achieving the above, the shape of the growing canopy would match a line in space where light intensity would be equal as it eminates from the light source. With fluoros, it's a perfectly flat plane. With a stationary HID it's a concave shape, the degree of which depends on the area covered. With an HID on a light mover, it's a perfectly flat plane.
Training is a method of growth control that allows one to shape their canopy. Tying, bending, crimping, topping, are all training methods. Training branches to grow where one wants in order to get the desired shape takes time. At best, even though branches are where one wants them, when the canopy is in full flower there are void spaces between the buds where other buds could be growing, but aren't.
The Sea of Green method, where many plants are used in an effort to eliminate the void spaces between buds, was named from the vision of seeing the procsess in use. The canopy looks like a "Sea of Green".
Either way, extra effort is required to maximize the use of canopy space. The plant's shape and the shape we want from a canopy under artificial lights are simply not the same. IOW Mother Nature will not cooperate
The extra effort comes in the form of using more plants (SOG), or training fewer plants.
After finding from experience that I didn't like maintaining the numbers of plants, mothers, and clones needed for SOG I opted for using fewer plants. I had to train but still wanted that Sea of Green horizontal profile and no void spaces in my canopy.
Enter the Screen
When a length of poultry netting is stretched over the grow area, it eliminates the need for conventional training. Tying, bending, and crimping are replaced by using the netting as anchors to keep shoots in position. It can also be perfectly shaped to make best use of the light. The netting is known as the screen, hence the name Screen Of Green or ScrOG for short.
Plants are topped to promote branching, as the plants grow into the screen and their shoot tips start to grow through the holes in the screen, they are pulled back under the screen and guided to the next hole to continue their horizontal growth. All the time maintaining the profile of the screen to maximize light use. Growth is very robust. While now getting the same light intensity as the primary shoot tips, secondary growth seems to blossom, and from the secondary growth comes tertiary growth, etc.. All at the top of the canopy, and all receiving maximum light intensity. How many plants are used depends on how much time the grower wants to take to fill the screen to a point where it will be full with buds at harvest. This will largely depend on the growth traits of the variety he uses, but one can fill a canopy with only one plant if desired.
When flowered, only the slow growing buds are allowed to grow through the holes in the ScrOG. The resulting harvest profile is indeed a Sea Of Green but with much fewer plants and the increased yields gained from making use of the void spaces found in a conventionaly trained, non-SOG canopy
** The ScrOG Concept **
Growing with fluoros gives one a good understanding of light to plant distance because it's so critical. Even so, HID users still appreciate the impact of having as much growth as possible, as close as possible to the light. It's how to make best use of what you have.
In the process of achieving the above, the shape of the growing canopy would match a line in space where light intensity would be equal as it eminates from the light source. With fluoros, it's a perfectly flat plane. With a stationary HID it's a concave shape, the degree of which depends on the area covered. With an HID on a light mover, it's a perfectly flat plane.
Training is a method of growth control that allows one to shape their canopy. Tying, bending, crimping, topping, are all training methods. Training branches to grow where one wants in order to get the desired shape takes time. At best, even though branches are where one wants them, when the canopy is in full flower there are void spaces between the buds where other buds could be growing, but aren't.
The Sea of Green method, where many plants are used in an effort to eliminate the void spaces between buds, was named from the vision of seeing the procsess in use. The canopy looks like a "Sea of Green".
Either way, extra effort is required to maximize the use of canopy space. The plant's shape and the shape we want from a canopy under artificial lights are simply not the same. IOW Mother Nature will not cooperate
The extra effort comes in the form of using more plants (SOG), or training fewer plants. After finding from experience that I didn't like maintaining the numbers of plants, mothers, and clones needed for SOG I opted for using fewer plants. I had to train but still wanted that Sea of Green horizontal profile and no void spaces in my canopy.
Enter the Screen
When a length of poultry netting is stretched over the grow area, it eliminates the need for conventional training. Tying, bending, and crimping are replaced by using the netting as anchors to keep shoots in position. It can also be perfectly shaped to make best use of the light. The netting is known as the screen, hence the name Screen Of Green or ScrOG for short.
Plants are topped to promote branching, as the plants grow into the screen and their shoot tips start to grow through the holes in the screen, they are pulled back under the screen and guided to the next hole to continue their horizontal growth. All the time maintaining the profile of the screen to maximize light use. Growth is very robust. While now getting the same light intensity as the primary shoot tips, secondary growth seems to blossom, and from the secondary growth comes tertiary growth, etc.. All at the top of the canopy, and all receiving maximum light intensity. How many plants are used depends on how much time the grower wants to take to fill the screen to a point where it will be full with buds at harvest. This will largely depend on the growth traits of the variety he uses, but one can fill a canopy with only one plant if desired.
When flowered, only the slow growing buds are allowed to grow through the holes in the ScrOG. The resulting harvest profile is indeed a Sea Of Green but with much fewer plants and the increased yields gained from making use of the void spaces found in a conventionaly trained, non-SOG canopy
jadeshecky
Well-Known Member
wow thanks for all of the great info dark, this helps a lot.
jadeshecky
Well-Known Member
lol, with AG grows the water is on 24/7
gobears4eva
Well-Known Member
lol yea AG is all water!!!I want AG keep going barbie my mbaby is improving more and more each day just started it on the 18-6 ligut cyc;e
jadeshecky
Well-Known Member
woo hoo, you go boy!
hey does anybody have any idea how to raise the humidity in my grow spot, can i just put a cup of water in there. don't want to use a humidifier (more electricity).
gobears4eva
Well-Known Member
idk i dont pay attention to my humidity but i do have a humidifer so i might use that.lol
liquidlava1669
Member
Hey guys I am on my first grow and my stinky ladies just finished week 4 of 12/12 I was wondering how they looked and also if anyone could help me identifying what strain they are sativa, indica / or a hybrid of them. If anyone sees anything wrong please let me know here is a quick overview of my setup. Soil is MG moisture control, 3 gallon buckets , advanced nutrients sensi grow A,B for the 5 weeks of veg and then advanced nutrients sensi bloom A,B with big bud I am using rainwater for my watering and I am using 2 teaspoons of AN parts A,B, with 3 teaspoons of big bud to a gallon of water and I am watering every 4-5 days. P.H. has been a constan 6.3 / 6.9. using a 400 watt matal halide from start to finish. Temp is 80-83 with light on and 72-75 lights off and R.H. is between 27%-35%. Any info is greatly appreciated as I learned everything from everything I have read from this sit. Thanks Everyone. well It wont let me upload my pics can anyone help it says a security token is missing what am i doing wrong
jadeshecky
Well-Known Member
hey liquid lava, not to bust your balls or anything but you may want to start your own thread. this is my thread and you are hijacking it. just thought you should now.
ok so yah i am busting your balls. lol
liquidlava1669
Member
shit sorry bro i am new to posting my bad man i am really sorry