2 questions about temperature and pH level in soil…

Geeked

Member
Could it be that my area is very humid and I’m foliage feeding every water? I foliage feed nutes and then provide enough 6.0 pH water if needed in soil. Always feed at nighttime. So I’m not sure if the plants are able to hold onto that liquid longer vs being evaporated from heat and light within minutes allowing the plant to soak in that liquid or what but I’m serious, my weight loss is more than 80% and I’m drying the slow process. Dry dark cool place and dehumidifier if level gets above 70%. Removed if falls below 40%. Left to dry until content can stay lit.
 

Geeked

Member
But thanks for the informations guys. Really helped! Give me about a week and I’ll post results. I have to say, these are a lot harder to grow and maintain than your average exotic fruit like durian or passion fruit.
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
I'd aim for a drying humidity of 55-60%. In general, dry weight is 20-25% of undried weight. I believe your light is probably a 400w LED and not the 4000w as advertised.
 

drsaltzman

Well-Known Member
Will do. I’ll post the wet weight and then dry weight and you’ll see what I mean. I don’t know why mine is so heavy on water. I only water enough to have tiny drainage as I hate having to pull them out to dump out so it’s not sitting in it’s runoffs.
Plants are 90% water.
 

Geeked

Member
I'd aim for a drying humidity of 55-60%. In general, dry weight is 20-25% of undried weight. I believe your light is probably a 400w LED and not the 4000w as advertised.
Maybe. It says 4000w but operates at 450w. It was a cheap Amazon one. It does have all of the light color for veg and bloom.
 

Merlin1147

Well-Known Member
Ah thanks. So cannabis pH level information is just regarding to the run offs and levels of the liquids, not the medium? Right? So those soil “pH” meters don’t really measure the real pH levels in the soil.
And temperature is literally impossible to achieve when you have a high powered light on 16 hours a day with fan motor and exhaust vent Motor running 24/7. During summer time, I was nearing 90F almost everyday and now we into fall winter, 85 is manageable… but thanks for clearing it up.
Oh and one more. When seed banks advertise the “yield”. Do they mean before it’s dried or after dry? Because my first grow was flawless and I didn’t even come near what they stated after dry but if it’s before dry, I surpassed it by far!
There is a lot to unpack in your original question about pH. Technically pH is the inverse log of the hydrogen ion (H+) concentration in a liquid. so low pH is acid and high is basic. H+ reacts with different fertilizer elements differently making some more available and other less. We try to strike a balance in the sweet zone 6.3 - 6.8 for soils. Most peat or forest products soils have a tendency to lower pH so soil manufactures add Limestone to the mix to buffer it against pH changes. Soil pH is a measure of the pH of the free water in the soil after it has reacted with the soil.
Ok so here’s where things get a little weird with pH. Early in the grow with nice fresh soil the Limestone is doing it’s job of keeping the soil from dropping the pH with your nicely pH’ed fertilizer solution. Life is good. But over time eventually the Limestone buffer runs out. To make matters worse, this usually happens later in the grow when the plants are big and we are watering more often. So pHing the final solution becomes more critical. Because of the reduced soil buffering, the availability of nutrients in the soil at this stage is going to change as the pH swings from the initial pH of the solution to its final pH after reacting with the soil over time. Soil pH testing can be useful in anticipating when and how agressive the pH swing is and then modify the fertilizer pH. Blue Labs makes a good soil pH probe. Expensive.
 

drsaltzman

Well-Known Member
Maybe. It says 4000w but operates at 450w. It was a cheap Amazon one. It does have all of the light color for veg and bloom.
OK now we're getting somewhere.
450W is way different from 4000W.
You basically have a 450W light regardless what their marketing says.
Don't know which light you're using but if you get .5 grams per watt from a cheap LED light you're running about average.
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
pH is important but many do to much and start measuring soil runoff pH leading to them dumping pH'd solutions through the soil trying to get the runoff to match a number. Any decent soil can take average tap water which can range from the high 6's to the low 8's. pH input is extremely important with coco and hydro but soil growers have the luxury of the soil being able to buffer the pH inputs and keep the root zone within the optimum range.

Root zone temperature is important as cold root zones will slow nutrient uptake and growth. Placing pots on a cold floor will have a negative effect due to the cooling of the root zone. Ambient temperatures inside a tent don't necessarily represent the temperature at the roots. If you're growing on a concrete slab in an unheated garage the thermometer in the tent might say 78° F but the floor the pots are sitting on could be significantly colder.

It's all pretty simple if you learn about plants in general and don't focus solely on all the cannabis specific stuff out there.
 

Geeked

Member
OK now we're getting somewhere.
450W is way different from 4000W.
You basically have a 450W light regardless what their marketing says.
Don't know which light you're using but if you get .5 grams per watt from a cheap LED light you're running about average.
Sorry for late reply. But my light is Yitatech 4000W model. It says for 5x5 grow space.
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
Sorry for late reply. But my light is Yitatech 4000W model. It says for 5x5 grow space.
It's a 400w light. From the Amazon listing for it:

  • Wide Coverage: This QB-4000 400 watt quantum LED plant grow light covers a 6 x 6 ft vegetable footprint and 5 x 5 ft flowering footprint. Wide coverage is optimal for 5 x 5 ft plant tents
 

Geeked

Member
It's a 400w light. From the Amazon listing for it:

  • Wide Coverage: This QB-4000 400 watt quantum LED plant grow light covers a 6 x 6 ft vegetable footprint and 5 x 5 ft flowering footprint. Wide coverage is optimal for 5 x 5 ft plant tents
Well damn. The thing cost me $300. When I bought it, it said 4000w output but “usage” wise is 400w for cheaper electricity bill monthly lol. If I knew this, I would have just bought a true 400w for $40.
 

Merlin1147

Well-Known Member
Well damn. The thing cost me $300. When I bought it, it said 4000w output but “usage” wise is 400w for cheaper electricity bill monthly lol. If I knew this, I would have just bought a true 400w for $40.
You need around 30-35 actual watt of high quality LEDs per square foot for flowering. So that light should be good for flowering 10-12 square feet.
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
Well damn. The thing cost me $300. When I bought it, it said 4000w output but “usage” wise is 400w for cheaper electricity bill monthly lol. If I knew this, I would have just bought a true 400w for $40.
Yeah, so that's how lots of the lighting companies scam...they lead people on to believing they have lights that are x-thousand watts and they're not. The tip off for me would be that if you price out LED light fixtures, most of them are sub 1000w and even those in the 600-800w range will run you over 1000$.

Pro-growers are using multiple lights rather than a single whatever...so not a whole lot of use for a single 4000w light for very many people.
 
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