20,000 Watt Medical Grow Op Construction

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
good ol' neem + peppermint dr. bronner's for preventative, pyrethrin-based pesties if we have to. if you can still find the original safer's endall, (not endall2, which is a different formulation, apparently, we found that out the hard way -- thanks safers ;)), it's quite effective.

also d. earth on soil surface and around pot rims to prevent spread (no leaf touching either!) for crawlers.

in other news, my bestie has bedbugs. do you think spinosad would be good against them?
Right now, we're leaning on the Spinosad. It has halted the infestation from increasing, and we hope continued applications will knock em out. I have had horrible results applying Pyrethrin on any plants 3 weeks or more into bloom....drastic yield reduction. I actually used pyrethrin for most of my career on these problems. Since I was spraying the entire room, I didn't really notice the yield reduction too much....until I was running a flip settup. I got bugs in one room and not the other. The room I sprayed yielded 20% less than the unsprayed room. Since then, I've been afraid of it in bloom. What about azamax on blooming plants?

For right now, we're going to keep blasting them with the Spinosad. One application wiped out the thrips. My buddy who told me about it says it takes several applications to get rid of mites, but that it will work. Once we get these under control, I'm going to be using the spinosad every 2-3 weeks as a preventative. The stuff just doesn't seem to affect the plants at all. We're setting off a Doctor Doom Bomb in the veg room tomorrow to prevent anything in there.

Thanks to all for the info. If the Spinosad does not wipe them out, I'll be using either the azomax or the avid, depending on what you all tell me about application in mid bloom.
 

NorthernLights#5

Active Member
Ive done it once half way through flower and but I cant say for sure that it affects yield as I did not regrow that strain. What i can say is that the smoke still came out fine good taste and look and smell. something else to try is separate the affected plants and give them a good bath in just cold water< yes i know this does not kill them or prevent them> as it has worked for me in the past, it does get them off the plant
 

dudeface

Active Member
Love this thread, thank you so much to the well informed that add info and correct the wrong info out there. Mello I do a very similar thing to all my plants. I spray them with an OMRI certified Pest-out (it's cottonseed oil and a few other seed oils) then with water. I then neem them (at like 1/10th strength) in veg and the beginning of flower for ALL of my plants. I spray them a couple times throughout flower again with the pest-out (stopping at week 5) and I have never had an outbreak of anything thus far. Moisture/airflow plus just an ounce of prevention has allowed me to never have an outbreak thus far of anything.

I have used azamax a couple times as well at about 1/10th the dose in veg...

Just my .02 for prevention. i give all my babies a full month of nothing before harvesting to make sure everything has run through.

Thanks CG for the great thread.
 

Truth B Known

Active Member
yo, this is my concoction... check it-

per 32 oz spray bottle:

1 tsp - dynagrow 100% neem oil (run hot water over bottle if solid)
1 oz dutch masters saturator (the ONLY product i'll use that's not organic)

you spray this EVERY 3 DAYS ((((from the time you -get the clones or -cut them or -from seedling ..thru 4th week of flower)))):leaf:
i use 1/2 tsp of azamax the first 2 sprays, then when transplanting, and last spray
:leaf:

i mix the water at about 70-80f usually (any colder and the neem oil will start to solidify again) but keep shaking every 30 sec's or so between spraying..

you do it right, and you will have beautiful, healthy, bug free plants!!
do a nice mist on the whole underside, no matter size, cover entire plant

:joint: hope that helps! -peace

What about azamax on blooming plants?
make sure you do a light mist and you better have LOW humidity.. i used it on a couple outdoor plants last year all the way thru harvest.. they seemed to do fine.. but it was dry as fuck out here.. so just watch the humidity, don't wanna go sprayin down buds in a wet ass room.. no bueno! worrrrd! good luck! peace
 

mellokitty

Moderatrix of Journals
Right now, we're leaning on the Spinosad. It has halted the infestation from increasing, and we hope continued applications will knock em out. I have had horrible results applying Pyrethrin on any plants 3 weeks or more into bloom....drastic yield reduction. I actually used pyrethrin for most of my career on these problems. Since I was spraying the entire room, I didn't really notice the yield reduction too much....until I was running a flip settup. I got bugs in one room and not the other. The room I sprayed yielded 20% less than the unsprayed room. Since then, I've been afraid of it in bloom. What about azamax on blooming plants?

For right now, we're going to keep blasting them with the Spinosad. One application wiped out the thrips. My buddy who told me about it says it takes several applications to get rid of mites, but that it will work. Once we get these under control, I'm going to be using the spinosad every 2-3 weeks as a preventative. The stuff just doesn't seem to affect the plants at all. We're setting off a Doctor Doom Bomb in the veg room tomorrow to prevent anything in there.

Thanks to all for the info. If the Spinosad does not wipe them out, I'll be using either the azomax or the avid, depending on what you all tell me about application in mid bloom.
it's true, i'm wary of pyreths on bloomers too.
more points for spinosad. must get some, just to have it around.
isn't dr doom pyreth-based? the last time we used it in a room, it burned off all our bottom leaves.

just fyi: avid is some bad shit. personally i'd rather smoke webs (and so would our patients). ecotoxicity starts at 0.36 ppb. (yes, b.)
 

mellokitty

Moderatrix of Journals
Food grade Diatomaceous Earth is effective, natural, non-toxic and good for fleas too.
thanks, i think that's what the pest-control people come and *pouf* around your bed and stuff, right? (i have some but i figured if they're doing it for her i'd just as soon keep mine lol)
so far she has the pest strip across the door, which we've sprayed pokon all around the threshold and doorjamb. *fingers crossed* (i know i know sorry to get OT)....;)
 

SCCA

Active Member
I haven't noticed any yield loss with the azamax. if i use it later in flower the buds tend to be a bit fluffier, but i notice that with any spray. azadirachtin (derived from neem oil) is absorbed much more quickly than pythrethrin and doesent clog the stomata as much as neem oil. i would recommend switching back and forth between the Spinosad and Azamax/Azatrol so the mites dont become immune. i havent been using the Spinosad, but i think i need to add it to the arsenal.
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
yo, this is my concoction... check it-

per 32 oz spray bottle:

1 tsp - dynagrow 100% neem oil (run hot water over bottle if solid)
1 oz dutch masters saturator (the ONLY product i'll use that's not organic)

you spray this EVERY 3 DAYS ((((from the time you -get the clones or -cut them or -from seedling ..thru 4th week of flower)))):leaf:
i use 1/2 tsp of azamax the first 2 sprays, then when transplanting, and last spray
:leaf:

i mix the water at about 70-80f usually (any colder and the neem oil will start to solidify again) but keep shaking every 30 sec's or so between spraying..

you do it right, and you will have beautiful, healthy, bug free plants!!
do a nice mist on the whole underside, no matter size, cover entire plant

:joint: hope that helps! -peace


make sure you do a light mist and you better have LOW humidity.. i used it on a couple outdoor plants last year all the way thru harvest.. they seemed to do fine.. but it was dry as fuck out here.. so just watch the humidity, don't wanna go sprayin down buds in a wet ass room.. no bueno! worrrrd! good luck! peace
Sounds like you have a nice routine. Unfortunately, it takes Helper D about 4 hrs to spray every plant in the grow. That every 3 days is just too much.
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
Yeah, Kitty, the Doom is Pyre based. I just feel like once we get these things under control, I have to do it. I've had good luck with the foggers in the past. Gets into the nooks and corners.

The good news is: the spinosad is working...no doubt. And still zero negative effects on the plants. All you Granola Heads will love this shit. It smells just like dirt. I mixed up a huge batch in a trash can and dipped all veging plants under about 2 feet tall. Then, I did a 4 hour spray regime in the bloom room...hit every plant twice. It was a great air circulation test. The RH only went from 43% to 47%...and back to 43% in about 15 mins. Helper D has been sick for the last 3 days, so it's been me alone for 12 hrs/day. Why do I have to kill bugs AND trim at the same time?

The good news is, patient feedback has been excellent. All we have is Bubba right now. I have a Chem Dog coming out in the next few days. It somehow got slipped in with the first batch of clones from my friend....I need a name for "my friend". We'll call him "Commercial J". Without him we'd still be 6 weeks from harvest. Anyways, we also have the fist test Laughgani coming out in about 2-3 weeks. The first of the 10 gallon Bubbas come out on the 14th. There's about 4 of those and they look soooooo good. I'm amazed at the difference in bud size from the 5 gallon Bubbas to the 10 gallon Bubbas. The 10's also vegged for about 10 days more. They're just fucking huge. One of them (plant number 3 dash 2) looks like she may throw an elbow. This would be the biggest indoor plant I've ever grown. My previous record was an NL mother that gave me 13 ozs. I'm a 20 year SOG/SCROG vet that's just not used to this big plant thing.

Godzilla (our DWC Bubba) is well into bloom and looking terrific. I'll get a pic soon. I think we're going to try an 8 plant DWC batch. I purchased a big air pump capable of running 8 buckets. We'll probably link these all together and circulate through a 20 gallon res. Then, maybe, we can change the water once/week instead of every 3 days. The best thing we're seeing with the DWC's is the small footprint with loads of very large buds. The branches are very thick and grow straight up really close together. I estimate the plant takes up around 2' x 2' and should yield around 6 ozs. So far, it looks like Godzilla is going to have the biggest buds.

Once I get caught up, we'll do the induction lighting test. It will be a mini test, but should give us an idea of what these things can do. It will be cute: 3 little topped Bubbas, finishing at about 18" tall. One under the 50 watt induction, one under 50 watt LED, and one under 175 watt HPS. I don't know how accurate it will be compared to a big light test...but it will give us all something to gab about.

That's it for me. Once Helper D gets back in the game I'll take some pics and post em.
 

TheLastWood

Well-Known Member
Hey cg things are soundin great. I.just swapped out my mh and hps for 2 400w ceramic metal halides. There sweet man. I can't wait to see the induction. With just 1 plant under each light they will all do good probably. Only problem would be laughani topped under led = for penetration.
 

SCCA

Active Member
that back pack sprayer isnt a bad idea. depending on the type you can put a longer hose on it so you dont have to carry it around with you. i have done this to little 1g pump sprayers too. if the hose attaches with a nipple and a coupler then its easy. the local ace sells a reinforced clear tubing about the same size a most sprayer hoses. it may take a little soak in hot water to soften it up to make it fit.
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
Hey cg things are soundin great. I.just swapped out my mh and hps for 2 400w ceramic metal halides. There sweet man. I can't wait to see the induction. With just 1 plant under each light they will all do good probably. Only problem would be laughani topped under led = for penetration.
Let us know how those ceramics treat you. We've been using Pulse Start Metal Halide Bulbs in a 6.4K temp in four of our six metal halide lamps in veg. I use Hortilux Daylight Blue in the other two. We've been thinking of trying the Pulse Starts in a 3K temp for the bloom room. I've heard of people doing this and getting results similar to 2 HPS/1 MH settups. My favorite blooming light has always been 2 HPS and 1 MH oin a Sun Circle Light Mover. The only problem is that you have to design your whole grow around the dimmensions of those light movers. AND, a circle isn't the most efficient use of space, is it? In the end, I'm pretty happy with the blue enhanced HPS bulbs. I've enjoyed the Horti for years with Mag ballasts, and now use the Digilux with great results. I know that the 2HPS/1MH combo would yield a little more, but not enough to be worth the spacing limitations.

Yes, Wood...penetration will be a huge issue with the inductive lights. Penetration is why I have refused to switch to 600's when many people have done so with good results. The Laughgani is so dense, that even small plants would need alot of light. The plant itself also seems to tolerate more light than the Bubbas. Growing large plants like we do, I'm not sure whether or not the inductive lights will do the job. Oh well, this is why we're going to test em.

We are considering expanding the bloom room into sheds in the main warehouse. I'm thinking a circle of DWC buckets around 2 - 1000 watt vertical lights. We would both veg and bloom in the little sheds. I'm thinking of using a circle of 6 x 6 x 6 wire mesh to train the plants onto. We are greedy.
 

TheLastWood

Well-Known Member
That sounds like an awesome idea. I just saw a really cool pic of a plant trained up a verticle screen vertibare in the nesw thread "mutated or sculpted plant game" (I think that's the title)

I'm thinking about starting scrog. I lke lst but something captivating about a scrog.
 
Top