2x2x5 Grow Lab - Reserva Privada Headband ... [ 100w T5 veg / 250w HPS flower ]

Hey sorry about derailing this thread,
whichbegs thequestion;

How are your plants shapedup for 2012!?

Let's get some phenotype profiles eh?

C.Indica said:

Hey sorry about derailing this thread,
whichbegs thequestion;

How are your plants shapedup for 2012!?

Let's get some phenotype profiles eh?

Click to expand...

No your fine. You asked the question I was going to ask .

My plants? You mean the Headband in this thread or plants in general?


I'm looking into dropping 2000w in a mmj grow. I have the means, and the general knowledge to start and not totally fuck it up. So it's all on other people and seeing if they can come through so I can come through .

Why buy gold when you can buy some 1000w hortiluxes and 8 inch air cooled hoods?

Why? I thought you were a personal co nsumption guy?


So I've been looking into thisliving soil setup..

-Roots Organic (soil)
(Subculture M, or Subculture B,or both)
General Hydroponics (Organics) BioThrive Grow,

OR I've been thinking about their Bio-Marine.
Idon't know if it will substitute for Fish Emulsion though..

And then I'm using FoxFarm Big Bloom for flower, since it has bveneficials in (or so they say)

Hey there C. Indica what's going on bro!

Stumbled upon your post here and thought I would through out my 2 cents on your thoughts to using Big Bloom as a flowering enhancer. If I remember correctly with FFs stuff... Big Bloom is mainly a soil additive with little or no flowering nutes in it so I don't think that I would rely on that alone. GL

I was mostly stoked that it's a package of beneficials.
Good stuff on the advice though!
I don't want to, but I might haveto break down and get theBio-Bud to makeup for this.
But we'll play it out yk'know.

Yeah Verde, the Tiger Bloom isn't organic. I can't remember about the others, but in the ingredients if it has anything like urea, ammonium nitrate/phosphate, and/or anything EDTA (which is a synthetic chelating agent) will harm the bennies in the soil.

Day 3 flower update

Beginning day 4 today in a few hours

grow mode


canopy


#1


#2


grow note: keeping the humidity at 40% for the first week or so.. then 35% for a bit then dropping to 20%-25% by the time pistils start coming in well.

upthearsenal said:

Yeah Verde, the Tiger Bloom isn't organic. I can't remember about the others, but in the ingredients if it has anything like urea, ammonium nitrate/phosphate, and/or anything EDTA (which is a synthetic chelating agent) will harm the bennies in the soil.

Click to expand...

Hmm that sucks.... It has urea as in urine? from what? :O... seems un necessary... with so many different organic types of sources for N..

and by bennies you mean beneficial micro organisms? I used TechnaFlora and Advanced Nutrients before but I didn't like them...

@ upthearesenal: So far I dig the Grow Big but do you think the Tiger Bloom and Big Bloom is good for flower nutes? Or is it worth it to just use on my chili peppers in the summer and go buy something different?

I just found this photo from my last grow.... I didn't even use a screen for that one. The genetics sucked too (foxtails/massive stretch).. I'm expecting tight nuggets for this RP headband now

Yup, urea as in urine. And yes bennies are beneficial microbes. It's up to you to use the tiger bloom and such, I'm sure they would be good, as in they would work. But if you want to grow some dank organic buds, I'd say get something else. I'm super poor so I hate to buy things to replace something I just purchased, but if you can exchange them or something then go for it. I use biocanna which is certified organic, and I also use Humboldt's Natual Bloom as an additional P source.

But I don't want to be totally biased, if you use the mineral based Tiger Bloom, you could end up with bigger bugs. Chem ferts are designed to give everything to the plant quickly, if you go organic there's a bit more effort that has to be put into really achieving higher yields (teas, improving/increasing the bioactivity in the rhizosphere so that there is better nutrient uptake).

Gotta love them organics


This would be so much easier if it were taught first hand !


I guess I will try the Tiger Bloom... It can't be the WORST thing right? as long as it doesn't smell like piss.

Gotta jump in real fast. Urea is all natural and there is nothing wrong with it - it's a great organic source of nitrogen and although there is urea in your urine this does not mean your bottle has any pee in it (although there could be... mwah haha! - gotta love organics). Chelation agents will not harm your benefitials - chelated chemical nutes are much better for your benefitials than non chelated chemical nutes. Chelation is simply the process of adding an additional bond between the salt (nutrient) and a variety of organic compounds - this extra bond helps negates the hydrogen bonding when the nutrient comes in contact with the soil solution which helps maintain a more steady soil pH.

And don't be afraid of scarey chemical names like ammonium nitrate. Aside from anhydrous ammonia and pure ammonium, ammonium nitrate is one of the easiest and cleanest forms of nitrogen a plant can uptake. Personally I say go organic all the way but some tiger bloom definitely shouldn't negate the good the organic amendments are doing.

Eh, look at guano (one of my personal favorites) - Ammonium oxelate and urea. Ammonium oxelate is C[SUB]2[/SUB]H[SUB]8[/SUB]N[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]4[/SUB] , technically a much dirtier form of nitrogen; it's ammonium (nute) + an oxelate salt that it pretty useless.

Plants are looking amazing by the way. Congrats on thinking about stepping up the wattage.

Thanks for the info gastanker +rep!

Yes I'm not crazy against urea just that it is what makes urine smell, no? Either way I took a look at the ingredients and didn't see it listed as a main ingredient so even if it is in the nutes it's probably so trace you couldn't smell it over the other stuff.

I'm not against the chemicals - I was just shooting for as much organic for piece of mind... I'm finding it's also very beneficial to my knowledge of plants and nutrients by deciding to work the organic route.... By looking at so many products and ingredients and compounds I'm really learning a lot about whats going on under the soil and that's very interesting to me .

That being said it's good to have what you said in mind.. It puts me at ease understanding what chelation is/does... As well as everything else




SO many different routes to get the *best* buds... It's intriguing

Day 4..

HPS 8 inches from canopy


overhead..looks like its spreading out well

Look how #1 took over #2... Interesting...!



calyxes


Showing multiple pistils all over

That was fast.

Still waiting for a serious stretch.. hasn't happened yet ... looking good though so far... Think ill feed tomorrow

So this is going to finish mid march... Cured mid april.... Ready to go by 4/20/12 in the best outcome ... I hear 78 days to finish! Should be plenty of time


I'm excited for 4/20 this year!

Lookin' superb Sr...

off to feed the girls... I know these numbers are high but I want to see what happens. It's marginally higher than what I've been feeding them with.


25mL Grow Big
15mL Tiger Bloom
20mL Big Bloom
10mL Botanicare Cal/Mag
6mL General Organics - BioWeed (cold-processed kelp)


We will see if we get any slight burning... I need to know what these girls can take.. Though I doubt it will be too much for them, they are seriously hungry plants.

Not trying to jack the Senior's thread but Gastanker is right about the additional bond chelates create, but because of that bond you don't need microbes to get food to the plant. There are many different chelating agents and they are not all created equal. Some are fucking great for microbes, others aren't so much. While you can use EDTA, Iron EDTA for example, and it won't necessarily decimate your microbes, the plant will only take up the Iron, but leave the EDTA behind... EDTA is considered a pollutant for that very reason, so while this may not pretain specifically to a potting mix that will get used for a very short amount of time, saying "chelates are good for microbes" is an oversimplification.

Let's say you add a carbon source to your soil, molasses in this case(which is also considered a chelating agent), microbes will take up the carbon (while releasing O) but need a source of N, this can be considered a carbon-nitrogen fixation. If there is no N for the microbes, then they will take it from your plant. Thus, after using molasses, you can actually use a mineral based fertilizer containing N to feed the microbes. I'd say using chelates with bio-active soil is totally possible (even using microbes in straight hydro can be possible), but it's very tricky business and for you to REALLY know what's going on in there you'd need a nice microscope, that's one reason I say just keep it simple, and just build a rhizosphere you know (w/o the need for the microscope) is going to be a great place for your beneficials.

Quick note: I decide to google EDTA really quick, and found that "it degrades to ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, which then cyclizes to the diketopiperizide, a cumulative, persistent, organic environmental pollutant." And diketopiperizides "have a wide variety of biological activities including antitumor,[SUP][3][/SUP] antiviral,[SUP][4][/SUP] antifungal[SUP][5][/SUP] and antibacterial[SUP][6][/SUP] activities."

...more food for thought I suppose, I'm done now, sorry for the tangent SV!

I enjoy the discussion! I can only post so many pictures .

That quick google on EDTAs sounds good to me..However I have a few questions........

Even if the biological activities include antifungal and antibacterial... wouldn't this be good to keep the soil healthy & pest/virus/fungus free? I know SOME bacteria is good, but on the upside would we be worried less about the nasty funguses, mildews or rots that can harm a crop?

I'm not well educated in this area of the soil, as a disclaimer to anyone reading... I'm just hypothesizing about the potential upsides of those properties?



What does the definition of, "organic environmental pollutant." mean anyway? What environment? Can't term pollutant could be misconstrued depending on the environment the 'pollutant' is applied to?


You could take a bunch of good, beneficial plant nutrients, and dump them over a coral reef... and the good nutrients would be considered a pollutant as it introduces algae into the water that starves the coral for o2 and sunlight.



I will have to read more after dinner... Just took a few oil dabs, so excuse me if I'm talking non-sense .