3 lbs a light publication

boilingoil

Well-Known Member
The only strain I've experienced that was good enough to take by 50 days was the original Bro. Grimm C-99. I've tried short flowering strains such as Freedom 35 And Serious 6 and they were both jokes.
And an experienced grower knows to use the stated flowering time as a guide not as set in stone.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
i think a lot of people start counting from the day they put a plant into 12/12. i don't start counting till i see more than a few pistils, and the stretch is about over. and thats still usually longer than the website predictions.
 

platt

Well-Known Member
hey brotha this is a 54 days rockwool bitch buddy, you wanna try it?

Has anyone ever grabbed a clone from a friend or a serious crew?
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I count from flip and my stuff often finishes in less than 8 weeks. One big reason for the difference is intensity; high temps, lots of light, co2 and nutes can encourage a plant to finish faster.
 

loftygoals

Well-Known Member
The only strain I've experienced that was good enough to take by 50 days was the original Bro. Grimm C-99. I've tried short flowering strains such as Freedom 35 And Serious 6 and they were both jokes.
And an experienced grower knows to use the stated flowering time as a guide not as set in stone.
I have a G13 Pineapple Express pheno (C99 x Skunk #1) which is done in 45 days from flip. At around 40-41 days the buds are filled out completely but trichomes not cooked.

The pics I linked to on the first page are all cuts of that pheno. All her sisters needed an extra 10 days but that one was ridiculously fast.

In one way it's great to have a fast flowering plant but she is also ridiculously calcium hungry (needs 3ml/L of calmag with every feed on top of 220ppm hard water!) and ANY mistake will impact yield significantly. You need to be on top of every single detail at all times as there is no time to fix things.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I have a G13 Pineapple Express pheno (C99 x Skunk #1) which is done in 45 days from flip. At around 40-41 days the buds are filled out completely but trichomes not cooked.

The pics I linked to on the first page are all cuts of that pheno. All her sisters needed an extra 10 days but that one was ridiculously fast.

In one way it's great to have a fast flowering plant but she is also ridiculously calcium hungry (needs 3ml/L of calmag with every feed on top of 220ppm hard water!) and ANY mistake will impact yield significantly. You need to be on top of every single detail at all times as there is no time to fix things.
My problem with fast finishers is that they don't yield well for me. It just takes time to swell. How did these do?
 

loftygoals

Well-Known Member
My problem with fast finishers is that they don't yield well for me. It just takes time to swell. How did these do?
This particular pheno does well for yield but only if you let her veg to have a nice big frame. She stretches about 30% and then starts to flop over so needs a lot of support and doesn't take up much extra space. Not spectacular yields as the buds are not rock hard but there are plenty of bud sites and they fill out to a good size. I actually disguarded the original plant initially then had to go back and reveg her to make a mother as she was the tastiest of her sisters, fastest flowering and had the frostiest buds.

I'm finding if I select what I think will be a good mother in veg... it always turns out to be the wrong choice once they're flowered!

per liter? damn
Yeah, insanely calcium hungry. 3ml/L keeps calcium deficiency from showing but 2.5ml/L doesn't :o She's the only girl I've had a problem with calcium deficiency with as usually my hard tap water alone is enough. I think she's just got some crazy fast metabolic processes going on.

Quite interesting to practice defoliation on; because she is so quick she can't recover well and the effects are really extreme but I'm finding that has helped me get my technique right. We'll see when the plants are done flowering anyway :)
 

whitey78

Well-Known Member
You can't base wether a plant is a keeper or not via a single run... I treat seed runs as only a preview... yield, potency, everything (most times) evolves and gets better with maturity... it's genetic drift caused by us when we toss a strain in the corner of the far side of the veg room for 3 months in a 1 gallon pot or whatever and then expect it to perform like a champ when we pull a clone or 20 to grow and end up with herms and shit on top of less than perfect representation of what we had... I don't believe in genetic drift based on what a plant does the older it gets but you can usually trace back a bad run if you let the plant grow like shit for any period of time without regrowing the plant to perfection and then taking clones to be flowered...

That and I've never seen the true potential of any non-feminized strain the first go round from seed (nor feminized honestly because we get better at knowing the strain usually as well)... it always takes a run of clones to see what you really have as far as overall keeper-ness and finish time... usually time posted by the breeders are obviously best case scenarios but I will say when grown right (meaning no fuck ups feed wise, green top to bottom beginning to end...., or major stress instances) from clone to harvest, 99.5% of my strains land squarely within the posted time frame unless I get a hard leaning pheno that's more like one of the parents than the intended cross but obviously that's expected... also grow method will effect flowering time... I have a cheesequake pheno that has been a 65-70 strain from the first time I flowered her clones in soil until the last time I flowered her in soil.... then I ran her in a hempy grow and it was so unbelievable that these plants were done as I've had this pheno for years now, could possibly be done.... by the time I decided it was even reasonable to use a bud scope, it was over ripe... now I just ran her in my first hydro run and she finished proper in less than 8 weeks... and I also count from the day I drop the plant in the 12/12 room and the lights go through a complete on off cycle as day 1 of flower... if your plant is mature enough as they usually do when you keep mothers in perpetual veg for long periods of time between making a new mother; they can't wait to trigger it seems...

On the subject of changing from the standard 12/12 flowering frame to whatever #'s work for you, I tried all the mentioned combos but other than trying to save on your electric bill I can't find any reason to deviate ever again... as far as dj short...I was pretty sure he was talking about something with breeding... that's vague and something a person who just ate 3 deadly gummi bears about an hour ago would say, but I'm almost positive he was referring to looking for a certain male attribute by changing the hours but I could be wholeheartedly wrong and gladly admit it... but if you (whoever posted that) actually spoke to him on the subject as well as others I guess I was imagining it but I was almost certain it was about finding something in a breeding male and he wouldn't give up the exact time frame he insinuated it was somewhere within an hour off of 12/12... which way??? I can't remember actual details now....lol... but I'm pretty sure it's in his book... maybe I'm high n should shut the fuck up...
 

Coloradoclear

Well-Known Member
Great information, I might do a bit more trimming this flower run. I normally clean up below my screen and make clones but, that is about it for any defoliation.
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
You can't base wether a plant is a keeper or not via a single run... I treat seed runs as only a preview... yield, potency, everything (most times) evolves and gets better with maturity... it's genetic drift caused by us when we toss a strain in the corner of the far side of the veg room for 3 months in a 1 gallon pot or whatever and then expect it to perform like a champ when we pull a clone or 20 to grow and end up with herms and shit on top of less than perfect representation of what we had... I don't believe in genetic drift based on what a plant does the older it gets but you can usually trace back a bad run if you let the plant grow like shit for any period of time without regrowing the plant to perfection and then taking clones to be flowered...

That and I've never seen the true potential of any non-feminized strain the first go round from seed (nor feminized honestly because we get better at knowing the strain usually as well)... it always takes a run of clones to see what you really have as far as overall keeper-ness and finish time... usually time posted by the breeders are obviously best case scenarios but I will say when grown right (meaning no fuck ups feed wise, green top to bottom beginning to end...., or major stress instances) from clone to harvest, 99.5% of my strains land squarely within the posted time frame unless I get a hard leaning pheno that's more like one of the parents than the intended cross but obviously that's expected... also grow method will effect flowering time... I have a cheesequake pheno that has been a 65-70 strain from the first time I flowered her clones in soil until the last time I flowered her in soil.... then I ran her in a hempy grow and it was so unbelievable that these plants were done as I've had this pheno for years now, could possibly be done.... by the time I decided it was even reasonable to use a bud scope, it was over ripe... now I just ran her in my first hydro run and she finished proper in less than 8 weeks... and I also count from the day I drop the plant in the 12/12 room and the lights go through a complete on off cycle as day 1 of flower... if your plant is mature enough as they usually do when you keep mothers in perpetual veg for long periods of time between making a new mother; they can't wait to trigger it seems...

On the subject of changing from the standard 12/12 flowering frame to whatever #'s work for you, I tried all the mentioned combos but other than trying to save on your electric bill I can't find any reason to deviate ever again... as far as dj short...I was pretty sure he was talking about something with breeding... that's vague and something a person who just ate 3 deadly gummi bears about an hour ago would say, but I'm almost positive he was referring to looking for a certain male attribute by changing the hours but I could be wholeheartedly wrong and gladly admit it... but if you (whoever posted that) actually spoke to him on the subject as well as others I guess I was imagining it but I was almost certain it was about finding something in a breeding male and he wouldn't give up the exact time frame he insinuated it was somewhere within an hour off of 12/12... which way??? I can't remember actual details now....lol... but I'm pretty sure it's in his book... maybe I'm high n should shut the fuck up...
bull shit, after 1 run you should know what a plant tastes like and how it performs yield wise, at least I always know if I do. Evolves with maturity wtf..... I been running the same cut of golden goat for 5 years never seen this improvement you talk of, mainly best way to get better yields / flavors is grow style not some type of evolving plants wtf...
 

whitey78

Well-Known Member
bull shit, after 1 run you should know what a plant tastes like and how it performs yield wise, at least I always know if I do. Evolves with maturity wtf..... I been running the same cut of golden goat for 5 years never seen this improvement you talk of, mainly best way to get better yields / flavors is grow style not some type of evolving plants wtf...
Never.. meaning from seed run to a run of clones you never get an improvement? Full sexual maturity is what I was referring to... I guess your better grower than most, my bad....
 

mytwhyt

Well-Known Member
Actually, back to the question, can you get 3# from a thousand watts.... I think it's not going to be that difficult, but not with one light.... I finished my first run with 2 new ss315 lec lights.... I came up short of 2# by 6 oz.... That's 2 plants in 2, 24"x 32"screens.... 630 watts.. https://www.rollitup.org/t/sun-systems-lec-315-reviews.742794/page-11 ... 1.15 gpw.... 12 sq feet of screen 2+ oz per sq foot of screen... dry
I think the right strain is the key to 1.5 gpw from this light.....
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Actually, back to question, can you get 3# from a thousand watts.... I think it's not going to be that difficult, but not with one light.... I finished my first run with 2 new ss315 lec lights.... I came up short of 2# by 6 oz.... That's 2 plants in 2, 24"x 32"screens.... 630 watts.. https://www.rollitup.org/t/sun-systems-lec-315-reviews.742794/page-11 ... 1.15 gpw.... 12 sq feet of screen 2+ oz per sq foot of screen... dry
I think the right strain is the key to 1.5 gpw from this light.....
A thousand watts from what light source?
 

mytwhyt

Well-Known Member
I had assumed the OP was referring to hid light... We can piss around and throw cobs in the mix.... I don't have much experience with them... My only led grow was an advanced ss200 185 watt true draw..... I've got a pic of that grow.... Still only got 2 oz per sq. ft. of screen.... 18"x 24" screen..... I didn't think the point here was to discuss what type of light would be best to achieve the goal........
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I had assumed the OP was referring to hid light... We can piss around and throw cobs in the mix.... I don't have much experience with them... My only led grow was an advanced ss200 185 watt true draw..... I've got a pic of that grow.... Still only got 2 oz per sq. ft. of screen.... 18"x 24" screen..... I didn't think the point here was to discuss what type of light would be best to achieve the goal........
The yield per square foot of campout surface area is a different, if related statistic to yield per watt.

56g/sq ft is pretty damn respectable.
 

mytwhyt

Well-Known Member
Wet, If there's gonna be a contest to see who has the biggest wet one, i'm in...
Just one plant now, and trimmed at that...
Might as well weigh the roots, if you're gonna include the leaves for total weight.........
 
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