Orca film at the local grow shop is around 120 dollars for a 50 ft by 5 ft roll .Yea ive got it on the floor walls and made curtains to that drop down next to the plants.It is similar to tyvek.It cleans up easy with soap and water and you cannot tear it with just your hands it is pretty durable material.I talked to the guy at the grow shop and he said 98 to 99 % reflectivity and diffused.
Its been a long time since i purchased my capp controllers .(junk but work well when they are not broken)They were around 500 bucks for the stupid things.A digital timer relay will cost me around 100 bucks,the floats will cost me around 40 bucks for 8 floats(stainless steel also,enough to set up four control buckets on the same timer)and maybe 12 bucks for the outlets,additional wire and plug ins maybe anther 50 bucks.Then we would have some sort of real nice sheet metal case painted or brushed stainless to fit it into with a base to mount to a wall proper.I think id also send the unit with a GFCI to make sure the grower is plugging his stuff into the GFCI...I would think i guy would be able to sale them and double his money and still be around or under the price of the garbage capp or other brands(all of them use the same junk timer relay).
If i were growing dirt id still be using mycos. But i use zone by DM. It is a give and take like everything else.My roots love the zone but no doubt they liked the mycos better.The zone keeps PH stabilized and keeps the system clean.
Like you i am always interested in saving power, I like to use my hoods to not only focus light but air flow around the plants.One end of the air inlet is hooked up to my A/C unit and duct work that cools the room the duct runs straight to the hoods and the hood is used to diffuse cool air not only across the bulb but keeps a constant air change over in the plants, each 5x5x5 space or 125 CF gets around 150 cfm of air change over. a few more fans for air circulation and we are all good.I was able to turn off at least 6 fans in my grow room just having a proper votex of air circulation in the room.
And yea..you could air cool a parabolic hood, i dont know if its been done but yea..it can be done easily.The problem is the super sized hoods would be real heavy from it.But yea we have devised a easy way to add air tubes to them already.In my case more for the use of pumped in air movement for circulation.Smaller parabolic hoods would be able to be enclosed with glass and cooled.
The reason i like parabolic hoods is you are able to focus the light better the type of parabolic hood i am talking about surrounds the bulb in a base up position.The bulb puts light out around it 360 degree,The light, base up, in the hood can be focused from all sides of the bulb that way.I may be wrong but it seems to me bulbs mounted in the horizontal position only captures the light from three sides for focus.Its probably not much difference though.
Talk to you soon.
Its been a long time since i purchased my capp controllers .(junk but work well when they are not broken)They were around 500 bucks for the stupid things.A digital timer relay will cost me around 100 bucks,the floats will cost me around 40 bucks for 8 floats(stainless steel also,enough to set up four control buckets on the same timer)and maybe 12 bucks for the outlets,additional wire and plug ins maybe anther 50 bucks.Then we would have some sort of real nice sheet metal case painted or brushed stainless to fit it into with a base to mount to a wall proper.I think id also send the unit with a GFCI to make sure the grower is plugging his stuff into the GFCI...I would think i guy would be able to sale them and double his money and still be around or under the price of the garbage capp or other brands(all of them use the same junk timer relay).
If i were growing dirt id still be using mycos. But i use zone by DM. It is a give and take like everything else.My roots love the zone but no doubt they liked the mycos better.The zone keeps PH stabilized and keeps the system clean.
Like you i am always interested in saving power, I like to use my hoods to not only focus light but air flow around the plants.One end of the air inlet is hooked up to my A/C unit and duct work that cools the room the duct runs straight to the hoods and the hood is used to diffuse cool air not only across the bulb but keeps a constant air change over in the plants, each 5x5x5 space or 125 CF gets around 150 cfm of air change over. a few more fans for air circulation and we are all good.I was able to turn off at least 6 fans in my grow room just having a proper votex of air circulation in the room.
And yea..you could air cool a parabolic hood, i dont know if its been done but yea..it can be done easily.The problem is the super sized hoods would be real heavy from it.But yea we have devised a easy way to add air tubes to them already.In my case more for the use of pumped in air movement for circulation.Smaller parabolic hoods would be able to be enclosed with glass and cooled.
The reason i like parabolic hoods is you are able to focus the light better the type of parabolic hood i am talking about surrounds the bulb in a base up position.The bulb puts light out around it 360 degree,The light, base up, in the hood can be focused from all sides of the bulb that way.I may be wrong but it seems to me bulbs mounted in the horizontal position only captures the light from three sides for focus.Its probably not much difference though.
Talk to you soon.
can't wait for the bud shots~
