3x LSD, 1x Bubba Kush

DesertGrow89 said:
The contents are weak because it was diluted with more happy frog soil to be safe.
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i mean how much did you dilute it? if 25% or less i would say you'll be fine.

AACT (EWC + BSM + 4 gal H2O > bubbled 24-48 hrs) should be given once when you mix the soil up and let it sit for 4 weeks, once in veg, once in the beginning of flower

Nutrient teas really should not be needed very often if at all with amendments in your soil. i would avoid feeding any nutrient teas until you see a reason to.

you didn't look very hard online if you couldn't find dolomite lime lol. i'm not trying to get down on you, i'm just saying. But from what I have been reading the combination of Oyster Shell flour, Crab Shell meal, and Gypsum pellets (not pearls) make a better liming agent than the Dolomite. I had good experiences with Dolomite when i was using organic synthetics ( i know it's an oxymoron but that's really what those bottles consist of most of the time lol). I'm using the crab shell, oyster shell, and gypsum in my current mixes that are cooking.

the piss you def. don't need.

i think you missed this part of the organic process but what you need to understand when you have a living amended soil, there is very little you need to do for the plant, it pretty much just grows itself. taking care of your soil is far more important. knowing and understanding what and why you are putting in the mix will benefit your garden greatly.

oh yeah and my Blue Labs Soil Ph Pen works fuckin awesome and i rarely have to calibrate it. at the most it's .1 when i recalibrate. I was going to sell it, but i may keep it for checking my mixes when im thinking they're ready.

BUILDASOIL.COM has everything awesome you need shipped to your door. they also have some good information about living soil on the site too.
 
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Richard Drysift said:
Hannah is good but like i said checking it with water is not giving you true soil ph reading. You need a soil ph probe- I got a cheapo genetic one which works fine. I only use it to determine if my soil is ok to use & never bother checking ph the rest of the grow. I hear blue lab is the best but you don't have to get one of those; any soil ph meter with a digital readout will do. I never test ph of my teas either & many growers never check at all because they know what their inputs will do & how long to wait before using their recycled mix. The best ph regulator I know of in soil is oyster flour but it must be in your mix in direct contact with the roots to work. Oyster flour regulates ph at the rhizosphere where it's needed. I also add some dolomite lime & garden gypsum which help also but they take a long time to actually affect the ph of your soil. If you bubble the lime in water- called hydrated lime it has a more immediate affect but you'll need a soil meter to see the difference in ph.
I suggest giving teas not in a scheduled way: think of adding tea like riding a wave. AACT provides microbial life which increased activity in your containers. It adds very little actual nutrition to your plants but instead feeds the microbes that wil fuck, fight, eat each other & multiply which in turn will aerate and enrich the soil. After awhile this wave will subside & you'll need to keep the party rocking by giving another boost of microlife populations. You can physically see how your plants react when you get it right. Your plants will be vibrant and try to stretch toward the light; always upright, never droopy. Yo can give teas as often as every 10 days or even as infrequent as once or twice during the entire grow. It really depends upon how active your soil is to begin with. More active soil that may contain live worms has an established soil food web & fresher soil that has not been recycled might need more of a microbial boost. I have no idea about calcium carbonate - never heard of it. If you are looking for a place to order organic amendments like dolomite lime check out kelpforless.com- they got everything ya need & a lotta stuff you don't lol.
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Dang that is an expensive pH probe, don't think I'll go with that one.

Pretty sure the problem with the necrotic leaf tip/yellowing leaves/interveinal green is Mg lockout, too much Ca/Mg more than likely. Going to give it a micronutrient formula with Mg and no Ca in it and see how it recovers. The other two seem to be doing OK, and the Kush plant just doesn't give a fuck about nutrient lockout as it wasn't affected.. lol.
 
DesertGrow89 said:
Dang that is an expensive pH probe, don't think I'll go with that one.

Pretty sure the problem with the necrotic leaf tip/yellowing leaves/interveinal green is Mg lockout, too much Ca/Mg more than likely. Going to give it a micronutrient formula with Mg and no Ca in it and see how it recovers. The other two seem to be doing OK, and the Kush plant just doesn't give a fuck about nutrient lockout as it wasn't affected.. lol.
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I was going to say this to me looks like camg problems. Whole plant effected. Will turn to necrosis if left unchecked. Many people will most likely disagree but for me RO filters are not best in living soil. If your on a well and have hard water. Two stage sediment and carbon filter sill work. If on city water there sre other methkds to remove chlorinate

That being said. Your ammendments are lacking big time. Minerals. 3-4 cups/cf. All you have is Greensand. Which takes 2 to 3 runs to even start being availably broken down for plant. Than your ro removes all minerals from water.

You need some oyster shell flower. And peices if you xan find. Ca and ph buffer.

Some sort of rock dust. Azomite. Glacial rock dust. Ec ec

Some liming agent. (especialy in peat bases) gypsum. Oyster shell flower. In crunch you could use dolomite but not recammended due to ca mg imbalance.

Also. Be wary of slaughter house by products. Bone. Blood. And feather meals and even guanos can be dangerous to YOUR health. There are better mixes wothout these items. And bone and blood meal are the only things ive ever experinced burn with in orgsnics. Crab meal. Fish bone meal. Neam seed meal. With kelp. Alfalfa is a bertrr choice imo.

So. What to so about your plants right now. Think about epsom salts. Eother foliar or drench. And if your not ( although i hate to say this) go get some general organics calmg. Nezt time build more ca mg and minerals into your soil. But thia mau help for now.

No more teas. Shoulsnt need any feeding until flower usually. And even then just let your ladies tslk to you. Do nothing till they ask for it. With the exception of SIMPLE aact. The recipe @ShLUbY provided is perfect. Dont forget to strain those teas as well.

Good luck.
 
foliar for Epsom Salt for fastest results. i don't see the green veins for Mg def. though; in the pics that were provided anyway.
 
green_machine_two9er said:
I think I can I think I can, I know i can!
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green_machine_two9er said:
I was going to say this to me looks like camg problems. Whole plant effected. Will turn to necrosis if left unchecked. Many people will most likely disagree but for me RO filters are not best in living soil. If your on a well and have hard water. Two stage sediment and carbon filter sill work. If on city water there sre other methkds to remove chlorinate

That being said. Your ammendments are lacking big time. Minerals. 3-4 cups/cf. All you have is Greensand. Which takes 2 to 3 runs to even start being availably broken down for plant. Than your ro removes all minerals from water.

You need some oyster shell flower. And peices if you xan find. Ca and ph buffer.

Some sort of rock dust. Azomite. Glacial rock dust. Ec ec

Some liming agent. (especialy in peat bases) gypsum. Oyster shell flower. In crunch you could use dolomite but not recammended due to ca mg imbalance.

Also. Be wary of slaughter house by products. Bone. Blood. And feather meals and even guanos can be dangerous to YOUR health. There are better mixes wothout these items. And bone and blood meal are the only things ive ever experinced burn with in orgsnics. Crab meal. Fish bone meal. Neam seed meal. With kelp. Alfalfa is a bertrr choice imo.

So. What to so about your plants right now. Think about epsom salts. Eother foliar or drench. And if your not ( although i hate to say this) go get some general organics calmg. Nezt time build more ca mg and minerals into your soil. But thia mau help for now.

No more teas. Shoulsnt need any feeding until flower usually. And even then just let your ladies tslk to you. Do nothing till they ask for it. With the exception of SIMPLE aact. The recipe @ShLUbY provided is perfect. Dont forget to strain those teas as well.

Good luck.
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Thanks for the response, at work right now but I'll re read your post later.
 
I give mostly just RO or water from my dehumidifier but because it contains no macros I do give an organic liquid calmag about every watering depending upon how far into bloom they are. Vegging plants don't need much calmag but flowering plants need a lot but this is the only thing from a bottle I use except the occasional dose of big bloom in my AACT teas. I never give them nutrient tea because they never seem to need it. I still think this whole thing will reverse itself if you just give clean water for awhile.
DesertGrow89 said:
Dang that is an expensive pH probe, don't think I'll go with that one.

Pretty sure the problem with the necrotic leaf tip/yellowing leaves/interveinal green is Mg lockout, too much Ca/Mg more than likely. Going to give it a micronutrient formula with Mg and no Ca in it and see how it recovers. The other two seem to be doing OK, and the Kush plant just doesn't give a fuck about nutrient lockout as it wasn't affected.. lol.
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That is a strong possibility. I use RO and distilled water too so I use a liquid organic cal mag almost every watering. General Organics brand works great.
 
Richard Drysift said:
I give mostly just RO or water from my dehumidifier but because it contains no macros I do give an organic liquid calmag about every watering depending upon how far into bloom they are. Vegging plants don't need much calmag but flowering plants need a lot but this is the only thing from a bottle I use except the occasional dose of big bloom in my AACT teas. I never give them nutrient tea because they never seem to need it. I still think this whole thing will reverse itself if you just give clean water for awhile.
That is a strong possibility. I use RO and distilled water too so I use a liquid organic cal mag almost every watering. General Organics brand works great.
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Thank you for the cal mag tip, I used big bloom during the last grow in flowering teas also. You are right about them turning around, added more dirt to cover stems up to the first node for max root development and sprayed some soluble root zone on them with a pump sprayer.
 
ShLUbY said:
big bloom contains synthetics... why would you put that in a tea?
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No it does not contain anything synthetic. BB is actually recommended to use as a base for brewing organic teas in the Revs True Living Organics book. It is safe for soil food webs; although nothing else made by fox farm is except happy frog 555. It IS 100% organic let's not spread misinformation...
 
Richard Drysift said:
No it does not contain anything synthetic. BB is actually recommended to use as a base for brewing organic teas in the Revs True Living Organics book. It is safe for soil food webs; although nothing else made by fox farm is except happy frog 555. It IS 100% organic let's not spread misinformation...
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Yeah, that's where I got the idea from his book is on my desk ha.
 
Richard Drysift said:
No it does not contain anything synthetic. BB is actually recommended to use as a base for brewing organic teas in the Revs True Living Organics book. It is safe for soil food webs; although nothing else made by fox farm is except happy frog 555. It IS 100% organic let's not spread misinformation...
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cool, i'll keep that noted. sorry for the misinfo.
 
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