4000w Stadium - 2011

Ive opened up some space to do a stadium this year. After seeing Northern Farmers stadium, Ive wanted to make one of my own.

I have a picture of the area. Its 10'x6'x6.5' high. Same as Norther Farmers. Im not sure if I would be better off using 4 1000w MHs, or 4 1000w HPS.



Ill have 4 rows of 10 on each side, making 80 sites total. Ill be making the frame of 2x3s and wrapping it in panda film. Ill have a 6" inline fan on a carbon filter, pulling air out of the tent, and Ill have passive intakes.

Ill be starting the frame, film, and shelves before spring. So im thinking early march, then i should have it running before summer, like early may. Until then Ill be vegging a single mother bubba kush to take cuttings from.

Anybody have an idea on how long norther farmer vegged for?

Will MH be better in this setup than HPS?

ive been vegging with a hps and im happy as can be with my plants... and i think you could buy mh hps conversion bulbs?

I was just looking at a bulb with both red/blue. Have you tried these? anyone?

A dual core hilux? Would this work well in a stadium?

I would run 6 600w solarmax bulbs wrapped in 6" cooltubes. I would grab supplemental lighting and fill the spectrum with a few Kessil LED's. I run 2 600w cooltubes with 4 Kessil LEDS work very well wish I had 4 600w cooltubes tho :/. Why so many plants ? just wondering because Im only growing 12 and I think i will have extra as is. If grown properly a plant can yield an easy 1/2-1 pounds with only 4 weeks veg. The weight produced is a matter of many environmental variables and most importantly genetics/phenotype. I only grow 12 because its less work to maintain 12 larger plants then 40-50 smaller ones and I get the same end result. Also I can only have up to 18 plants because of 5 patients per cargiver laws and 3/3 plants per patient in Colorado. Thats what I learned since I got legal and setup my legal grow op to help a few patients and myself aquire properly maintained top quality medicine.

Best of Luck
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/384835-swiftgrow-journal.html

Thanks for the ideas. The supplemental lighting ill be looking into. I currently have 5 600w HPS, but not available to use in this room. I dont use cooltubes because i havent needed them. I wanted to do 1000w bulbs because i wanted fewer bulbs and ballasts.

I was looking into doing trees, it just takes less time with 80-100 1 gallon containers short veg. I dont have a plant limit, i have a weight limit. Also I would be limited to 6.5' total height in this space. So I can only grow trees as tall as im growing in my tents.

I checked out your grow, very nice. I have the same nutrient line minus sensibloom, I use the connoisseur base. Im actually finishing up whats left now. Im hopefully switching to general organics line, Im actually trying them out now.

Thanks again. +rep

Does anyone know the benefits of the MH vs the HPS in flower?

I'm not excessively experienced (obviously) But I dont think the MH bulb is suited for flowering alone? I think the HPS gives off more red spectrum or something, from what I gather the MH is good for vegging but not enough alone for flower

pocw94 said:

ive been vegging with a hps and im happy as can be with my plants... and i think you could buy mh hps conversion bulbs?

Click to expand...

You can buy ballasts that will run HPS or MH is that what you mean? I'm still learning myself and want to suck in as much info as friggin possible!

if i had this chance, i would probably give the Metal halides a go, i would get the 3000kelvin bulbs, and the reason i would go with MH is because there is more UV light output but thats just me lol you could run with 2x MH and 2x HPS for the best of both. the standard for mixing lights is.... for veg 2x MH for 1 HPS. this would mean...2x400w MH & 1 400w HPS but when flowering its the opposite, 2x 400w HPS for 1x 400w MH.

From what i have read is that the light from an HPS is best suited to Flower...but the reason behind it is that if used solely for veg is the HPS gives off a spectrum of blue light that makes the plants think it is getting reflected blue light rather than the direct light (which obviously not the case but try and tell them that) which will in turn cause the plants to stretch because they think if they stretch they will out grow what ever is in their way of blocking the light.

as for my thoughts on the hps/mh decision is id go either one of thos 60/40 hps/mh bulbs or just throw 1 or 2 mh and the rest hps

constantpane said:

From what i have read is that the light from an HPS is best suited to Flower...but the reason behind it is that if used solely for veg is the HPS gives off a spectrum of blue light that makes the plants think it is getting reflected blue light rather than the direct light (which obviously not the case but try and tell them that) which will in turn cause the plants to stretch because they think if they stretch they will out grow what ever is in their way of blocking the light.

as for my thoughts on the hps/mh decision is id go either one of thos 60/40 hps/mh bulbs or just throw 1 or 2 mh and the rest hps

Click to expand...

your wrong.. lol sorry but.........
HPS=Flowering=Very orange
MH=Vegging=Very Very White/Bright Blue

when veggin, the blue spectrum of the metal halide lights replicate the early but long days of the year,this blue/white light from MH will make short, squat and bushy plants with very short internodes, but if you use a HPS during the Veg period of growth the plant will stretch alot more because there is very little blue in a HPSs light spectrum, the whole point around the 2 different bulbs are... metal halide replicates the long days but the hps light is orange because its used to replicate the short days of winter. this could get alot more technical ill leave it there folks

Dude get the Solarmax with the dual 600wHPS/400wMH if your worried about both spectrums. I would say 95% of people use HPS ONLY for flowering. I have personally seen the results and having a LITTLE MH (blue/daylight) in your spectrum DOES help a little in terms of resin production and coloring. A new technique many people are utilizing is throwing in their MH bulbs the last week of flowering. Just food for thought.

I would go with the HPS and avoid anything with mercury vapor. Mercury is incredibly toxic to human and if that shit ever got out you would be screwed.

uh dont all MH and HPS have mercury?

Just use both and the plants will love it. I've done it in the past right now I only have 2 1000's I switch from MH to HPS and MH the first 3 weeks of flower then all HPS the rest of the flower

I veg all my plants under T5HOs. I just saw Northern Farmers grow of the same dimensions, high yeild with 4 1000w mh bulbs. I know the dual arc bulbs, and conversion bulbs exist. I just didnt know if there was an advantage to him using the mh bulbs. I also know they sell mh bulbs in a red spectrum too.

Ive actually come upon some lights I would like to test and have ordered 3 of them to start with. They are expensive but they are supposed to last up to 11.4 years, and have a 10 year/60,000hr warranty. They are Inda-Gro Electrode-less Induction Lamps, I will be using 2 400w lamps in flower and 1 400w lamp in veg. I will be doing a sog style grow, with 8 1 gallon containers under each lamp for a total of 16 sites. If this test goes well, ill be adding 3 more lights. 1 more veg, and 2 more flower.

Check it out this summer

screaminsemen said:

uh dont all MH and HPS have mercury?

Click to expand...

Yes they both contain mercury. In fact most HID Lamps contain a small amount of mercury.

Here are some changes I made to Northern Farmer Technique
1. Use zip-loc freezer bags- (1 gal)

2. Cut Drainage into one bottom corner --attatch a trouph on shelf if you want to collect runnoff or avoid mess

3. Transplant only to the opposite corner of the drainage hole you created. (Not the center of the bag)

4. When setting up shelfs (a) vertical distance is exactly the height of a filled bag.
(b) offset next shelf back only 10cm as you have already offset the plant in the bag.

90% of the bag is covered by the shelf above and your full assembly runs as close to perpendicular as can reasonably be achieved using this method. Additional options include covering the front face with white vinyl(reflective, algea, cover roots). I determined that this step was not nessessary(to my amazement). The roots grow away from the front of the bag and are shielded by having bags on either sides of them. Mount the lights on a piece of angle iron that can be positioned out of the way when you have to do some work in the very narrow space between shelves. Output with this revamped system is amazing. Run two 10 week production runs offset by 5 weeks or three 9 week production runs offset by three weeks for constant harvest. Good luck-this works