400W @ 83F or 600W @ 89F

guitarguy10

Well-Known Member
Growing in a small tent (2'x4'x5', 30cuft), so even with massive overkill exhaust fans (sealed hood that has its own dedicated 403CFM fan, and a 260CFM fan (with no filter for air restriction) for exhaust) it still gets quite hot in there.

I am growing under a 600W HPS but the temps get up near 90F. When dimmed to 400W the temps go down to about 83F. What are your guys opinions on which is better, like could I get away giving them more light at 600W and near 90F or should I just sacrifice some of the light they get (so dim to 400W) so that they don't get as hot?

I am growing Blueberry and Peyote Critical in 75/25 coco/perlite w 4mL/L AN Sensi Bloom A + B, 2.5ml Cannazym (with one full application of CalMag and a root stimulator at start). I have no additional CO2 because I can't afford a tank and regulator and also the 260CFM fan exhausting a 30cuft tent = massive air exchange.

They are on day 10 of flower in the attached pic.
 

Attachments

guitarguy10

Well-Known Member
I don't understand where the english translation is failing here lol.

I am growing with an air cooled hood ... that has a 403CFM fan pulling air through it. I even sealed it myself with gasket sealer so that none of the airflow exits the hood.

Why would I buy another air cooled hood when I already have one .smoke? I'm happy for that company whatever, but my question is simple:
400W @ 83F or 600W @ 89F?

like wtf????
 

RadicalRoss

Well-Known Member
90 is hot but it's not crazy hot. Is it a consistent 90 or does it fluctuate, like with your house's AC or something?

200W is a lot of light to give up just to save a few degrees of heat.
 

paparov

Well-Known Member
Have you measured the temperature at the leaves with an infrared thermometer? If the room temperature is 89 F with HPS in reflectors, guaranteed you have over 93-94F at the surface of the leaves. A temp range like that is a no go. Remember that what matters the most is the temperature at the surface of the plants, not the room temp. The room temp is just an indicator which can be way off what you imagine if you are growing with HPS in reflectors.

Also, you got to check out the VPD chart. If you have higher temps you can compensate by raising humidity. Definitely have reliable instruments for these 2 factors, temperature and humidity.
 

ktmracer51

Well-Known Member
I did a summer run in a 4x2 with a 600. Had to run the intake fans pretty hard but, I got the job done while running the temps in the 91-93 range. Never showed any signs of heat stress. Doing a new run now and its still warm and humid here. Temps been right at 90-91 in tent past week and still looking good with no stress with a different strain.
 

BBQtoast

Well-Known Member
Have you measured the temperature at the leaves with an infrared thermometer? If the room temperature is 89 F with HPS in reflectors, guaranteed you have over 93-94F at the surface of the leaves. A temp range like that is a no go. Remember that what matters the most is the temperature at the surface of the plants, not the room temp. The room temp is just an indicator which can be way off what you imagine if you are growing with HPS in reflectors.

Also, you got to check out the VPD chart. If you have higher temps you can compensate by raising humidity. Definitely have reliable instruments for these 2 factors, temperature and humidity.
His Cu/ft air exchange is so high I don't see why he shouldn't be at least close to room temperature.
 

paparov

Well-Known Member
Well, I'm saying that due to the reflectors. If he was playing with vertical bulbs it's much more possible it would be close to room temperature. The only way to find out for sure is an infrared thermometer pointed at the canopy. A really useful tool indeed. I'm also measuring temp of the water with the thermometer, pipes are getting cold in the winter and it's not good to be using the water as is.
 
Last edited:

guitarguy10

Well-Known Member
Have you measured the temperature at the leaves with an infrared thermometer? If the room temperature is 89 F with HPS in reflectors, guaranteed you have over 93-94F at the surface of the leaves. A temp range like that is a no go. Remember that what matters the most is the temperature at the surface of the plants, not the room temp. The room temp is just an indicator which can be way off what you imagine if you are growing with HPS in reflectors.

Also, you got to check out the VPD chart. If you have higher temps you can compensate by raising humidity. Definitely have reliable instruments for these 2 factors, temperature and humidity.
I dont have an IR thermometer (and I'm way too poor to afford one, that's why I growing my own medicine, can't afford to buy it). Anyways, I have placed the temperature sensor at several places in the grow tent and yeah it sure does fluctuate even within a small closed space, but 90F is at the canopy.

90 is hot but it's not crazy hot. Is it a consistent 90 or does it fluctuate, like with your house's AC or something?

200W is a lot of light to give up just to save a few degrees of heat.
Yeah it's a conundrum for sure, I don't want to give up 200W of light, and also this may just be an old wives tale, but I have read and been told that dimming a bulb lower then what it's rated for shortens it's lifespan. I don't know how true this is but if at all I would like to extend the life of this bulb as much as I can. I splurged on a $120 eye hortilux HPS bulb over the $20 vivosun one I was using, it was like my entire months savings, but I want this crop to be good. This like my 5th grow and they have all pretty much sucked so far, got weed but meh not great quality.

It doesn't fluctuate much, when the lights are on my room (which the grow tent is in) is about 75-77F and tent is 90F, when lights are off my room can go down to 72F and the tent is about the same temp -1 maybe to my room (so lowest 70F). That's a whole other issue I've been grappling with, it possibly getting too cold in there when the lights are off but that's another financial investment of a heater that's currently not in the cards for me. I'm sure it's fine.. lol.

Did I mention that it should have been well below 0 outside now in Ontario Canada, but we have had almost summer like weather all autumn and even now into november? Don't know how the extreme temps outside are going to affect things but uh cross that bridge when I get to it.

I did a summer run in a 4x2 with a 600. Had to run the intake fans pretty hard but, I got the job done while running the temps in the 91-93 range. Never showed any signs of heat stress. Doing a new run now and its still warm and humid here. Temps been right at 90-91 in tent past week and still looking good with no stress with a different strain.
I actually have passive intake. When I had a 4" fan drawing air in the temps actually went up considerably. I also have these DIY filters I put on the intakes so the tent is always getting clean air and has signifigant negative pressure, so only clean air getting in there. Attached are 2 pics, I have 2 of these filters and 2 holes open for intake.

Where are you exhausting to and getting your intake air from?
The air is coming from inside my bedroom and it is exhausting outside of the house. Attached is a pic, just a wooden board with 2 6" holes cut into it and literally taped into my window lol. I need to get some insulation very soon but fortunately the temperature outside has been warm (too warm for my region :( ).

To measure temps @paperov I have an arduino microcontroller with a DHT22 sensor from which I can collect and plot the temp and rh (rh on the sensor is broken though) in excel, and it is just above the canopy on the side. I also have a remote sensor from a cheap temperature sensor that is sitting within the canopy. Both temps read close to the same, but I try and keep sensor away from direct light, which is hard when you're trying to take the canopy temp. I am working on getting a working hygrometer right now, it's a matter of when it's delivered to me when it gets installed.

Last picture is of my plants yesterday, day 12 of flower (before the daily tuck, and yes I will be defoliating HEAVILY when they finish stretching). They all look healthy, I am just not sure if the temps have been stiffling their speed of growth or not, I have never grown these strains before (blueberry and peyote critical).
 

Attachments

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
The filter + all the extra length of ducting may have seriously reduced the cfm going through it, plus it looks like there is at least one 90 deg turn in the ducting to the window, right? Also, besides the fan pulling air through your hood, what are you using to vent the tent itself?
 

guitarguy10

Well-Known Member
The filter + all the extra length of ducting may have seriously reduced the cfm going through it, plus it looks like there is at least one 90 deg turn in the ducting to the window, right? Also, besides the fan pulling air through your hood, what are you using to vent the tent itself?
The fan that is cooling the hood is directly attached to it, so the hood is receiving maximum flow (the fan draws air into the hood from inside my bedroom. That ducting coming out is long, in fact my window is on the other side of the room. But the air going into the hood is directly attached to the fan, so I don't think all that extra length for air being pushed out after the hood is too big of a deal, either way not much I can do about it, my closet is across the room from my window. It likely doesnt matter but the hood is oriented such that the air being drawn in flows over the bulb and out (vs the bulb facing the other direction).

The tent is being vented by a 203CFM fan. Perhaps it is hard to see in that picture but there are 2 6" ducting going out that window. One is from the 206CFM fan that is exhausting the tent, the other is from the 403CFM fan cooling the reflector. Attached is a crappy picture I drew a while back (the white boxes are changes, I used to have an active intake fan, which is the box on the right, and i used to have a carbon filter which is the box on the left, but no carbon filter needed now that it is legal).

Those filters are not attached to any fan, it has passive intake and those filters are on the ends of the holes for the passive intake. I had a 4" inline fan giving active intake before but the temps went up by almost 7F, reproducibly.
 

Attachments

xtsho

Well-Known Member
Lower the temp in the room so you're pulling cooler air through the tent? That isn't a very big tent. It's not the 2 x 4 size it's the 5ft height. There isn't any place for the heat to go. Also, where is the temperature gauge positioned inside the tent?

And from my experience the Eye Hortilux lights are not $100 better than the Vivosun. I've used both but now I save money and use the Vivosun.
 

guitarguy10

Well-Known Member
Lower the temp in the room so you're pulling cooler air through the tent? That isn't a very big tent. It's not the 2 x 4 size it's the 5ft height. There isn't any place for the heat to go. Also, where is the temperature gauge positioned inside the tent?

And from my experience the Eye Hortilux lights are not $100 better than the Vivosun. I've used both but now I save money and use the Vivosun.
I answered that above.

I was super torn on buying the eye hortilux, I ended up buying it cuz several ppl on this forum told me they were worth it. And light is like probably the most important thing, so I invested wanting a really good crop this time.
 

guitarguy10

Well-Known Member
The fan that is cooling the hood is directly attached to it, so the hood is receiving maximum flow (the fan draws air into the hood from inside my bedroom. That ducting coming out is long, in fact my window is on the other side of the room. But the air going into the hood is directly attached to the fan, so I don't think all that extra length for air being pushed out after the hood is too big of a deal, either way not much I can do about it, my closet is across the room from my window. It likely doesnt matter but the hood is oriented such that the air being drawn in flows over the bulb and out (vs the bulb facing the other direction).

The tent is being vented by a 203CFM fan. Perhaps it is hard to see in that picture but there are 2 6" ducting going out that window. One is from the 206CFM fan that is exhausting the tent, the other is from the 403CFM fan cooling the reflector. Attached is a crappy picture I drew a while back (the white boxes are changes, I used to have an active intake fan, which is the box on the right, and i used to have a carbon filter which is the box on the left, but no carbon filter needed now that it is legal).

Those filters are not attached to any fan, it has passive intake and those filters are on the ends of the holes for the passive intake. I had a 4" inline fan giving active intake before but the temps went up by almost 7F, reproducibly.
In case you don't believe me :D
 

Attachments

Top