4weeks into flowering please help identify leaf issue

What should I lower my Ph to.. And my day Temps shouldn't be below 85 correct using CO2?

flood and drain seems to be a bit of a difficult method to get right. dwc is better, that's must my opinion. you're temps a little too warm. I think your ppm might be too high. you have some leaf tip death which is typically of over ferting. I suspect that brown spotting you're seeing might be due to high temp, but this is just a guess based on it's appearance. you might consider reducing the amount of flood time. you'll have to experiment some.

Meh, mid flower leaf drop. I get that at week 4-5 too, especially in old fan leaves. I can see by the way the serrated edges of your leaves are turned up - high heat, and you have leaft tip burn. Are your newer leaves kinda thick and brittle, and when bent break? If so, Id drop your ppm down too. My ebb and flow never gets above 1000 ppm/ 1.5-1.6 EC..

ALSO, there is a difference between room temp and canopy temp... Check your temperature at the top of the canopy, it will likely be much higher than the overall room temp.

What Temps would you suggest if running CO2 during lights on and what about my night time Temps

Sdsteve said:

What Temps would you suggest if running CO2 during lights on and what about my night time Temps

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85 ish degrees but check this at the tops of your plant.... When my room is at 85 I know I have a problem at the canopy which can be close to 100.. When my canopy is at 85 my room temp is around 72.

Internode said:

Meh, mid flower leaf drop. I get that at week 4-5 too, especially in old fan leaves. I can see by the way the serrated edges of your leaves are turned up - high heat, and you have leaft tip burn. Are your newer leaves kinda thick and brittle, and when bent break? If so, Id drop your ppm down too. My ebb and flow never gets above 1000 ppm/ 1.5-1.6 EC..

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No dont have that issue with the newer leaves.. So you don't think that I'm having any type of deficiency.. Just nutrient burn and heat stress would it help if I moved my watering further apart an for the heat part would raising my CO2 levels help with protecting the plants from the heat or anything I can add to my resevor that would help them deal with it better?

Dude, based on how they look, which is pretty darn good to me, I wouldn't get too carried away making radical changes. My opinion, address the heat, cut back reservoir PPM slightly, do weekly reservoir change out and let her go... What I learned from many years of growing, bad looking leaves isnt ALWAYS an indicator of a problem. Plants will recycle mobile elements from older leaves through out the flowering cycle causing some older leaves to just give up and fall off.. What I see often is someone finding a few funky leaves, they make drastic knee jerk changes and end up killing a plant that was otherwise fine... wait till you do your flush at the end and the whole thing fades out to yellow mixed with purple leaves....

Oh, sorry, leave your waterings alone, but if your watering at all at "lights out" stop.. only water during lights on. C02 might help the plant cope with the stress, adding some silica to your nutrients can help too...

Internode said:

85 ish degrees but check this at the tops of your plant.... When my room is at 85 I know I have a problem at the canopy which can be close to 100.. When my canopy is at 85 my room temp is around 72.

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OK I will keep an eye on the canopy temp as for my ppm levels I was just followed the company's reciepy for success levels that they suggested but you think I should cut it back they are only at that level for maybe a day though because of adding Ro water to the resevor to replace what they are drinking daily im losing about a 100 a day but I just checked our logs and last night 4.5 gallons of Ro water was added to the resevor with a ppm level before water added was 1430 after water added the level dropped to ppm of 1260.. But this morning the ppm level has risen up to 1430 again over night..have never had the level jump back up like that any ideas as to what the cause of this might be??

Internode said:

Dude, based on how they look, which is pretty darn good to me, I wouldn't get too carried away making radical changes. My opinion, address the heat, cut back reservoir PPM slightly, do weekly reservoir change out and let her go... What I learned from many years of growing, bad looking leaves isnt ALWAYS an indicator of a problem. Plants will recycle mobile elements from older leaves through out the flowering cycle causing some older leaves to just give up and fall off.. What I see often is someone finding a few funky leaves, they make drastic knee jerk changes and end up killing a plant that was otherwise fine... wait till you do your flush at the end and the whole thing fades out to yellow mixed with purple leaves....

Oh, sorry, leave your waterings alone, but if your watering at all at "lights out" stop.. only water during lights on. C02 might help the plant cope with the stress, adding some silica to your nutrients can help too...

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So your saying that I should stop all watering cycles during the 12 hours of lights out.. Won't that make the plants have severe wilting issues?? Considering that they are fed every 1.5 hrs now so take away 8 watering cycles

Yeah, I never water at night, I grow in clay pellets as the entire medium, ebb and flow (flood and drain) with 4 waterings for 5 minutes each through the 12 hours of lights. Never seen any wilt from not watering at night... In fact, when I stopped watering at night and it cured my bud mold problem instantly (well cured the grows after the dreaded bud mold)... I also use technaflora entire line at a rate of at minimum - 400PPM in veg to a maximum of 1000PPM around mid flower... As far as waterings, my last watering is about 15 minutes before the lights turn off for the dark period... If you are concerned about the night watering, you can run 1 pump cycle, this will give them some water and replace the air around the root zone. I just never water at all in dark cycle.

As far as your PPM fluctuation, the plants drink more water than they absorb nutrients, so yeah, a day later after the plants drink a bunch the PPM will jump back up. Best estimate is when plants drink 1 gallon of water maybe 10% of the original nutrient level for that gallon is absorbed it isnt 1-1...

you can push your co2 to 1500ppm

take your nutes up to 1800 and use a wee bit more cal/mag and more K, you can probably go to 2000ppm with no problems

your root zone looking good ?

also with co2 you can go between 30 and 40c canape temps, but 26c to 32c seems to work best

ph wise for flowering in hydro I like ph5 swinging upto 6.5