JSheeze
Well-Known Member
I'll give it a shot, thanks, pics make it easy
60w Led Lights As Supplimenta Lighting
- Thread starter jumpincaz
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
I'm sure you will find something similar in your country because it is used worldwide for biocompatible pest control and approved almost everywhere in the world. And best of all, there is nowhere a Monsanto sticker on it ....
JSheeze
Well-Known Member
*Since these pics, which were taken 2 days ago, the tops have completely singed to just green material. I flushed 6gal with 6.4 pH water with 4800mg CaCO3 (suspecting Ca def) and added Epsom salt and potassium gluconate (supp 6-18-6 tomato spikes) as well.
[The tap water ppm was 250ish, 7.3pH. I added the Ca, Mg, SO4, K, supps and it brought the ppm to 950ppm, after vinegar addition, pH 6.4.]
First 2.5gal runoff 900-975ppm, 6.3pH.
Next 2.5gal runoff 1100-1600ppm, 5.8 pH.
Next 1gal runoff 975-1100ppm, 6.0pH (last 2.5L flushed w 7.6pH).
Raised the lights, the bigger 40w are 12" (were 7.5") above trellis. The smaller 11w, 16w are 13.75" (were 9.25") from trellis. The taller outside buds are ~3-4", the shorter inside buds are ~1.25-2", in height. Also added a spike, the first one in 6wks, to give it P along with the K (potassium pills; potassium gluconate) I flushed it with.
What you think?
I was going to wait and not spray anything till cucumeris, but they said it would get here today, so I sprayed peppermint oil, ISO, Dawn, the night before (the next day it seemed liked the plant liked it, less black/brown spots transferring) I was actually surprised by the predator delivery the next day (been on for 3days now, and sprayed 4 days ago).
I tried to rinse off the spray that I did with a Dawn and aspirin mix. I let it dry to 25%. Then I cut open the slow release bag of 1000x cucumeris and sprinkled the sawdust habitat on each bud site, and then hung the remainder with leaves turning down inside to help bridge for cucumeris to travel.
The black dots Ca def? Mite? pH/nute lockout (when it was 5.8 )? The yellow/light green leaves light burn? The ISO or Dawn or Peppermint essential oil singe/kill hairs/buds??
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
The PH seems to be okay again, but it should be at 6.5. Now you have to wait a week and let them dry out before next watering(use plain water, PH7,3 to increase substrate PH).
From the pictures I can not say much except that they have nice sizes and look like week 6 or 7.
In a week you should hardly find any mites and the flowers should start fatting up.
Do not give her too much "love", that would only hurt. Pay attention to the PH and leave the rest to her. She does that when the PH is right and you keep her relatively dry. A suction tension of 80-120mbar would be optimal, but therefor you need a tensio-meter. I prefer Blumat because it's relatively cheap and accurate(40$). But you can do it without, just make sure that she dries out properly in the meantime, because she want as much as possible fresh air into her substrate before next watering.
From the pictures I can not say much except that they have nice sizes and look like week 6 or 7.
In a week you should hardly find any mites and the flowers should start fatting up.
Do not give her too much "love", that would only hurt. Pay attention to the PH and leave the rest to her. She does that when the PH is right and you keep her relatively dry. A suction tension of 80-120mbar would be optimal, but therefor you need a tensio-meter. I prefer Blumat because it's relatively cheap and accurate(40$). But you can do it without, just make sure that she dries out properly in the meantime, because she want as much as possible fresh air into her substrate before next watering.
JSheeze
Well-Known Member
Just found these 25w (2250lm) LED's at less than $3.00/per.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/LED-E27-Bulb-Light-5W-10W-15W-20W-25W-30W-SMD-110V-Energy-Saving-Lamps-Warm-Cool/142563504212?hash=item2131727054:m:mFU_EVp5eVtAGJ_VNTJLwGQ
Labels them @ (80-90lm)/w which seems to be less effecient than what I've been getting recently (100lm/w typically), if I remove the globes could I expect 120lm/w like what's typically referenced when removing globes from household LED's???
**Also my plant doesn't smell?? 4wks into flower??? Doesn't look like it's producing resin either, just getting barely bigger vegetatively??? And do CFL black lights help (UVA)?
https://m.ebay.com/itm/LED-E27-Bulb-Light-5W-10W-15W-20W-25W-30W-SMD-110V-Energy-Saving-Lamps-Warm-Cool/142563504212?hash=item2131727054:m:mFU_EVp5eVtAGJ_VNTJLwGQ
Labels them @ (80-90lm)/w which seems to be less effecient than what I've been getting recently (100lm/w typically), if I remove the globes could I expect 120lm/w like what's typically referenced when removing globes from household LED's???
**Also my plant doesn't smell?? 4wks into flower??? Doesn't look like it's producing resin either, just getting barely bigger vegetatively??? And do CFL black lights help (UVA)?
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GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
JSheeze I'm seeing US $7 per for those. Are you sure you've selected the 25w model when you see the price?
They are more omni-directional than I'd like
They are more omni-directional than I'd like
JSheeze
Well-Known Member
When I select only (1) to purchase it populates a total of "$6.98", but if I select to purchase (20) at a time it populates a total of "$59.79". This may be the discrepancy you're referring to??? And yea, says they illuminate a 270° angle.. but the figure I was giddy about was the [668lm/$1](@80lm/w) up to [1003lm/$1](@120lm/w)..
https://m.ebay.com/itm/LED-E27-Bulb-Light-5W-10W-15W-20W-25W-30W-SMD-110V-Energy-Saving-Lamps-Warm-Cool/142563504212?hash=item2131727054:m:mFU_EVp5eVtAGJ_VNTJLwGQ
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GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
Ah the bulk rate! I get it.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
I would not use these shitty chinese bulbs, they are insecure as the most of them and will probably hold only a few month because of the cheap driver parts. Better pay a few bucks more and get a few Osram bulbs or better, take some Bridgelux EB-Series Strips. 7$ for a 2ft. strip, up to 32w per Strip(1,4A) and ~4640lm(145lm/w).
Unfortunately your plant don't look better, are you still fertilizing? If yes stop that! She looks overdosed and still have some PH issues. As I said, too much love is bad!
An easy way for beginners would look like this:
- take the best soil-mix you can get (please do not save here),
- take 5gal. fabric pots and
- don't use any fertilizer untill she asks for.
- be careful to keep the PH between 6 and 6.5
- 4 weeks veg and another 9-10 weeks for flowering.
- use a strain with little demands on fertilizer(SuperSkunk, Powerplant, WhitwWidow)
- refrain from unsuitable products. Your mix of vinegar, tomato sticks and the other stuff does not seem to work well.
- golden rule when pouring, rather 2 times too dry than 1 times too wet!!!
If you do it this way you will only need fertilizer in the last weeks of flowering if any (week 4-7) and I guarantee you useful results.
You made the typical rookie mistakes and paid too much attention to her. She does not need that!
She needs a really good soil with a suitable PH and a high amount of organic matter,
a big fabric pot(the bigger the better, 5-10gal.min.,( bigger pots = no additional fertilizer)
a good amount of light and proper air movement through a fan.
That's it!
If you want to give her some more love, trim her without stress(tie down),
play her music, plants love Mozart,
spray once a week with a brown algae product and
otherwise look at her carefully.
That's enough!!!
Unfortunately your plant don't look better, are you still fertilizing? If yes stop that! She looks overdosed and still have some PH issues. As I said, too much love is bad!
An easy way for beginners would look like this:
- take the best soil-mix you can get (please do not save here),
- take 5gal. fabric pots and
- don't use any fertilizer untill she asks for.
- be careful to keep the PH between 6 and 6.5
- 4 weeks veg and another 9-10 weeks for flowering.
- use a strain with little demands on fertilizer(SuperSkunk, Powerplant, WhitwWidow)
- refrain from unsuitable products. Your mix of vinegar, tomato sticks and the other stuff does not seem to work well.
- golden rule when pouring, rather 2 times too dry than 1 times too wet!!!
If you do it this way you will only need fertilizer in the last weeks of flowering if any (week 4-7) and I guarantee you useful results.
You made the typical rookie mistakes and paid too much attention to her. She does not need that!
She needs a really good soil with a suitable PH and a high amount of organic matter,
a big fabric pot(the bigger the better, 5-10gal.min.,( bigger pots = no additional fertilizer)
a good amount of light and proper air movement through a fan.
That's it!
If you want to give her some more love, trim her without stress(tie down),
play her music, plants love Mozart,
spray once a week with a brown algae product and
otherwise look at her carefully.
That's enough!!!
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GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
What's this bit?
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
The dosage for kelp algea products is on the back of the bottle, mostly 1-2ml/100ml water.
GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
Alright that sounds outside my experience.
I got some kelp meal for mixing into my soils and I hear some use them in ewc teas though I'm yet to.
I've got Seasol which I think is kelp based, which is a full and broad liquid nutrient mix widely used in industry.
It's not alike to either of those, right?
I got some kelp meal for mixing into my soils and I hear some use them in ewc teas though I'm yet to.
I've got Seasol which I think is kelp based, which is a full and broad liquid nutrient mix widely used in industry.
It's not alike to either of those, right?
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Most kelp products are similar! On the packaging should be a sticker with info if and how often you can spray it.
Once a week is okay but stop spraying when they start forming the first flowers. Horsetail extract is also useful and can be mixed with kelp. The additional silicium will harden the cellwalls and make them more resistent against fungus and insects.
JSheeze
Well-Known Member
I'm trying to figure her out. I'm wondering if there's perennials or bulbs in the pot I got from my neighbor.
I haven't crushed any spikes for feeding for approx
10 days.
I flushed her with 3gal of tap water ph-ed with vinegar and nothing else, and then 3 gal of pH tap water, molasses, and aspirin.
6 gal total, 4days ago, all because I wanted to check the pH run off to see where I was locking out.
The ppm of mollases, tap water and aspirin was 680ppm.
The draining run off, which I suck up with a vaccum hose and jar with 2 holes poked in the top of the lid in multiple stages, had the pH all at 6.4 except 1 of the 30 jars of runoff I sucked out was 4.8, and was the second jar I sucked up, all others right on 6.4 or 6.5. I added that low pH jar to another normal pH jar and mixed and the meter read 5.5, so I don't think it was a glitch in the meter.
Also the ppm of the runoff was never over 1000ppm. Generally 700-900ppm.
I've been seeing the red/orange spots still, and yellowing new growth (low N?). I mixed up some MG Bloom booster (15-30-15) half strength of the recommended indoor dosage and have applied a mist a few times for the last couple days (2).
My thinking was the ppm runoff was not very high, and possibly was nute def from root or soil issues. I raised the lights a lil. I'm trying anything. I noticed some spider mites I think (the leaf I looked at had 2 black bodies under the leaf, and lots of tiny white dots ontop of the leaf, saw with a mag glass) and so I ordered 1500 lady bugs to help the cucumeris I already have.
Also she's purpling up pretty intensely, I'm thinking maybe a purple Haze or Durban Poison, maybe a PB&j or bubble gum..
Talk to me, what you see going on??...
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
If it's N deficit it's to late to solve that issue. Maybe she need more calcium? What is the EC of your tap water? Lower as 0,3mS means you need probably more calcium.
But there are so much issue at the time it's realy hard to say. Since your ppm and PH is okay now, I would only add some calcium and let the ladybucks solve the spidermite investination. She looks like week 6 or 7 so realy not enough time left.
Keep the humidity low and the substrate dry to avoid bud rod. A fan is helpful!
Weakened plants have little defenses and are an easy victim for boytritis fungus, also with added aspirin.
But there are so much issue at the time it's realy hard to say. Since your ppm and PH is okay now, I would only add some calcium and let the ladybucks solve the spidermite investination. She looks like week 6 or 7 so realy not enough time left.
Keep the humidity low and the substrate dry to avoid bud rod. A fan is helpful!
Weakened plants have little defenses and are an easy victim for boytritis fungus, also with added aspirin.
aspirin ? plants have headache ?
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Haha, nope..., in short.
Aspirin, or better, Acetylsalicylic-acid triggers an imun reaction in plants. They "think", they were somehow infested and push their imun system to a higher level. Can be useful in some situations...
JSheeze
Well-Known Member
Tap water ppm ~(250-300)
Tonight is day 35 with 12/12 lights (I'll take pics)
Added another fan...
JSheeze
Well-Known Member
Water runoff after tonight's watering was 6.9, 7.0, 6.2, 6.7. Anyone got any experience with CFL blacklights?
The purpling of the tops.. and you can maybe see where I got the pH fixed, maybe an inch from the tops it seems like the real intense spotting and yellowing stops??...
And then the tiny white specks on top of the leaves that I suspected as mite evidence???...
Attachments
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Oh man, even more cattle stuff?!
Do the little white dots shine a little silvery? If yes, it's so called tripse! The ladybucks and gladiator mites should also help here.
Seems to me that your soil was not of good quality...
Tripse are most of the time introduced over the potting soil. Cheap soil is not heated up to kill those insects and therefore it is sometimes full of bad insects. Mix a few cups of diatomaceous earth under the potting ground or buy equally a good soil mix next time. Pro-Mix, Light-Mix for example.
Diatomaceous earth destroys the chitin shell of insects, both the bad and the good ones unfortunately, they simply "bleed to death". It is eg. used in horses or cowsheds to lime the walls and floor or as flo-powder for dogs, cats, chickens, etc.
You really had a lot of bad luck with this run.
Do the little white dots shine a little silvery? If yes, it's so called tripse! The ladybucks and gladiator mites should also help here.
Seems to me that your soil was not of good quality...
Tripse are most of the time introduced over the potting soil. Cheap soil is not heated up to kill those insects and therefore it is sometimes full of bad insects. Mix a few cups of diatomaceous earth under the potting ground or buy equally a good soil mix next time. Pro-Mix, Light-Mix for example.
Diatomaceous earth destroys the chitin shell of insects, both the bad and the good ones unfortunately, they simply "bleed to death". It is eg. used in horses or cowsheds to lime the walls and floor or as flo-powder for dogs, cats, chickens, etc.
You really had a lot of bad luck with this run.