6OOO watt ventillation question

Mine dont and I have run them like this for years. In a daisy chain or 4 1000 watt lights with a 450 cfm fan on each end the exhaust air is just above 80. In grow tents with 3 daisy chaine 1000 watters the lights on temps in mid summer are right at 72 in the tent and I can hold the tube. If you look at m ost large indoor grow rooms including those at grrenhouse saeeds you will see the daisy chain is the accepted way to run these. The light output is equal to most reflectors as the tubes have a built in reflector inside the tube then the adjustable 5 point wing can be adjusted to any needed angle without the loose of light from a 4 sided box type reflector. under a light meter the intensity is the same with wider coverage for the kool tubes. Have done many trials with these as I was not a belive when they first cam out but after years of use and testing this is the best way. Running seperate lines is redundent as the lights at each end are actually the 2 coolest as the air is fast moving there to come in cool and leaves the fastest which is exactly the opposite of what your suggestiong. It is fact I run thermometers at the ends to keep track for bulb deteriation.

opps double posted...

Hi fletch thanks for the help,
I have had afew 4 and 5 k runs,
I have only 1oo amp panel,and was going to convert to 24o to have some headroom.Would i still need a 2oo amp sub panel?


The flip flop i have has zero footprint,no spike,also changes the pattern in which lights activate,kinda cool. Hidsmart makes them
Heres a basic layout of the three rooms i can use.
Any help on how to run lights{pattern etc} and how,where to cool them.
I would like to do a totally sealed room but am open to anything.
Also ideal a/c style,thank for all your interest and help!

Would this a/c work well?
http://www.drillspot.com/products/48497/Movincool_CLASSIC_PLUS_26_Portable_Air_Conditioner

gotcha,
I will try the tubes next time for sure,
so should i run 2 x strings of 3 lights instead of 3 x strings of 2lights?
or skip the hole cutting,and ac hoods and just run ac?
Or a/c with ac hoods?
Thanks for your help bruddah!

ahh the flip flop makes a big difference as the lights will alternate on and of in the dutch form. If you go 240 and use the flip flop you should be oke just run the cool tubes in sets of 3s then yiour cool in the breeze as the tubes hold most the heat. im still not a fan of glass enclosed reflectors as they are hot as hell to touch which means the heat is still comeing off. the kool tubes I can hold my hand on them forever even after running for 10 hours straight. Figure 1000 watt ballasts are at about 5 amps each so 30 amps plus extras so 60 amps is fine as long as your house isnt being used like ac and tvs and lot of lights and drier and washer. use digital ballas they are mopre efficient cost less and save bulb life not to mention up to 30% more light, no heat and silent.

I would highly advise checking into reflector comparisons before you go out and decide on cooltubes. bostongeorge54 posted a link in another thread from icmag that I read 25 pages of all about this subject. Straight up, cool tubes MIGHT be more efficient with dissapating heat, (I have no experience with them) but as far as making the best use of light, they ranked extremely LOW. Pick your poison.

And btw, a typical 1000W HPS light, draws about 9.8 Amps.

hi mcgician,
thanks for stoppin by!

I have 5 x 8" a/c hoods right now if i continue withe the a/c hood theme then ill get one more,im just loosin faith in the a/c hood thing,cause that shit is loud and a mess.
But if you guys think the hoods work well ill stay the course.

How much easier would it be to just run a big 24kbtu a/c in the window!!
Then i could use the cheap econo adusta wings...

Help! lol

Well I do not hold much of icmag as good advice which is why i do not go there much. The average digital 1000 watt ballst uses 8.4 amps on a 120 current but he is going to run 240 which maes it closer to a 5 amp draw for a digital ballast., I compared thew double reflector kool tubes with a refracto meter to the sunleaves aura type reflector. The light intensity was right at equal with more coverage from the kool tube as it could be closer to the plants and cover more area. The reflector will give you a more intense beam of light in the center but the loss of lumnes per foot balances the equation

Hmmm
ok so i will rearange lights tonight into 2 strings of 3
But where should i vent my lights? Through the window box i built or into another room?
I want to make this a s close to a closed/sealed room if i can.

Found the link to the thread. The icmag link is in there. It focuses on many different aspects of reflector efficiency. What I deduced from the thread was that more than anything you want a good LIGHT SPREAD. Hot spots will fry plants sometimes, even with cool temperatures. That's something I have seen first hand and learned the hard way. The Super Sun2 6" AC reflector faired extremely well along with the Daystar 6" AC and one other one I can't remember. The sweet spot for light dispersion was between 18"-24" from the glass. I know the thread is long, but believe me, it's worth the time to check out.

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/193347-opinions-about-reflector.html

Whatever you decide, let us know how it ends up working out.

For shure,i will post pics aswell

you have options to vent. You can vent to the attic since the air will be dry no moisture for mold then make sure your attic venst are working and a fan up there is sucking air out. You can also vent to another room into a baffle box. The window is my last choice as its real obvious and can send a strong heat signal out. You can go through the floor then route it to the same vent your dryer uses and that covers heat then add some drier sheets to the line and its just hot dryer air comeing out snuggly soft

Nice!
I like the dryer duct idea,but it is a 5" duct hole will that still work?
My floors are concrete<and my ceilings are wood?! so seems like the wood ceiling would be hard to fix later but the most effective.Hmmm the flower room shares a common wall with my laundry room so i could cut a hole in the sheetrock imbewteen them;and right to the laundy duct! I told that idea to a contractor friend and he said thats not enough air flow through that little hole,but to me that seems like it could work?!
Then i could bring air in from a hole in my door or wall by door.
Whacha think?

Also could you explain to me a bafffle box in detail? I have 2 rooms / 1 on either side of the flower room

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100055092&N=10000003+90401+502155

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100385905&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&cm_sp=d26-_-plumbing-_-subcat-_-Bath_Fans

What about these? with a carbon filter;.

HappySack said:

You ever noticed that there are so many that say you can't do that! You'll never be able to do that, that will never work. Well most of those people have never done it. First off you have the right size exhaust. You can pull air across 3-1k's on one run and 3-1k"s on another to the exhaust. just don't daisy chain them. What is the room in, a basement? If so a great way to cool the room is to cut 2-6" holes close to the floor,(same wall). Utilize the a/c from the rest of the basement. Your pulling in conditioned fresh air from a larger volume. A/c will work less. Air cooled lights still put out a great deal of radiant heat, but that can be dealt with by air circulation captured by room exhaust. Put your room exhaust on a timer that goes off 15 min after the lamps go off. and then come on a few time during the dark period. The room exhaust can be attached to a carbon filter. If your dead set on C02, your going to need a greenhouse controller, kinda pricey, but work it to avoid the headaches. I was reading your post, you said a closed loop? Have them T off to a filter?

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I like your reply! Of course you can vent 6000 watts out of there, and it sounds like you have the set up more or less ready. A combination of air vented over the lights, and air drawn out of the room, will work. It will draw a lot of power, and make a lot of noise. Personally I would go for large quantity venting, rather than cooling with A/C, but that also is a concern based on power-consumption versus noise.
I can't remember the watt to BTU conversion, but 6000 watts is less energy consuming to get rid off by pumping it out, rather than cool it down.

You will still need the cooling unit, though - just to stay comfortable in a small area, possibly away from the lights.
Show us pictures of how it goes - 6000 watts - wow!

Thanks for the reply!
I will post some pics when i get it up this weekend,i am finishing up the wiring this week
So i have a 10" hole above my ac for exaust for lights,but am trying to figure out where to bring air into lights from (the growroom door would work,its a spare i could cut into,or the hallway wall would also works but feels excessive and messy)
Would 1 x 12"elecient be enough pushing air and 1 x 8" vortex pulling out air from hoods? Let me know what you think as i am new to thisaircooled hood thing,cheers

headbandrocker said:

Would 1 x 12"elecient be enough pushing air and 1 x 8" vortex pulling out air from hoods? Let me know what you think as i am new to thisaircooled hood thing,cheers

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Your room air exchange rate needs to be approx 3-5 times per hour if I remember right. I have an 8" Vortex and it works fairly well for exhaust as long as you don't restrict it too badly with a clogged carbon scrubber or lots of angled ducting. My new room is only 12'x12' and the caculations require 519CFM to properly clear that size room. (my Vortex does about 800cfm so I'm covered there) Your cubic ft are calc'd at LxWxH of course and then you align this total with your Vortex ratings.

Don't be stingy when it comes to ventilation, it is paramount to a successful grow. I have seen so many people buy all the right plants, lights and nutrients...only to bake their plants with heat and no fresh air. If the room temp gets too warm the stomates on the leaves close up and your plants go into self defense mode... not good. Also make sure you screen/filter any incoming air from outside...don't want gnats or other pests making it in! And to chime in with others....1K lights (even air cooled) generate alot of heat. I had my 2 1k lights fed cool air AND had my home central A/C feed blowing directly on them. Without the A/C it wouldn't have worked.

Good luck on your room and keep us posted!

im running 5 1000w and only 4 are aircooled i do run a air conditioner but but i leave it on its factory setting of 75 so if it get to hot it turns the ac on if to cold it turns on the heater ( option on mine ) but yea it gets to hot running just 4 1000w in a 9x20 room

Hi guys,I just stumbled back on this thread while googling "cea lung room" and thought i might post an update

Majician I just now read your tip on ac lights not bieng meant to run inline,i just saw my first room done like that,lotsa ducting but cool ! so how many fans,1per hood?" maybe could use way smaller fans? hmmm i like it.

I Have 2 flowering chambers now,
Chamber A- i am running 6x600 watt hps + 8'' blockbuster Hoods with ushio bulbs+8'' vortex pulling fresh air (2 strings of 3)from outside across the lights and into hallway( have 10k btu ac roomie gave me but havent cut the hole for it in the door yet.)Fan is loud outside so i have it on a dimmer and turned down a bit.
Chamber B-has 3 soon to be 4k watts in narrow ass 8'' german hoods not aircooled as of yet but soon to be+24kbtu window ac .
This area i attempted to do sealed but ran into serious PM

Both rooms are 4 4x4 trays on rolling tables over 100 gal ez drain rezs

dialing it in now heres some shots of her.